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686-3 - so it should be a stainless .357 Mag. manufactured between 88 and 93 when the -4 came out, though there were some special runs made in the mid 80s that received a -3 as well.

Checking GB closed auctions that actually sold it appears that the 686-3s (various length barrel) have sold between $550 for a beater 2" up to $1675 for a new in box 4". Also, I recently saw a 686 National Match (production run of 500 by Bill Davis) offered for $2K.

sounds like the price is in the ball park but a hair on the high side for a run of the mill 6". There are options to consider though - little things like cylinder flute delete (smooth cylinder) can bump up the price.
 
I was shopping for either a 686 or a GP100 a couple of years ago. Seems to me like that's a bit high for a used gun, especially if it's not a 686+ (7 shot). In fact, I could have bought a new one for that price. I'd think it's a $600-$650 gun, depending on how much you want it.

FYI, I paid $650 for my 4", 7 shot 686+, in the blue case and very clean. Yeah, that was almost two years ago, but I haven't seen revolver prices skyrocket quite like some other guns.
 
Depends on if the lock is a big deal to you. Mine has a lock, it's like tits on a boar, I'll never even look at it, let alone use it. The extra round is what I do use every time I shoot it. So for me, I'd get a new 686+ which is what I did. But if you want a pre lock gun, it's a gun I would never get rid of so in the coming years it shouldn't matter what you paid for it.
 
Is there a 'spec' for this with S & W?

It's more of an acquired feel.. if there is appreciable wobble once the gun is cocked.. you can also check for cylinder chamber alignment by looking down the bore with each cylinder cocked, using one eye to check for misalingment. If you have thin feeler gauges you can also check for cylinder/forcing cone gap..
 

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