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So, with the NWFA Lower Group Buy underway, it's time to figure out something to do with it.

Requirements:
1. SHORT LENGTH OF PULL. My arm only allows an ~11.5" LOP, and upper-torso issues might mean even less than that. Eventually, I'm looking at installing a LAW Tactical sidefolder-adapter which adds 1.3" to LOP, so we need a stock that in collapsed or next-notch-from-it position is 10" or less.
2. COMPACT FRONT END. 16" barrel, preferably 5.56 NATO if not .223 Wylde.
3. VALUE FOR MONEY. This doesn't mean cut-rate parts, but parts that are solid but affordable.
4. LIGHT. Limited pectoral muscle, so the less weight I have to fight with the better. Less important than VFM, but a tiebreaker between two parts of equal price.

KNOWN PARTS:
1. Receiver - ($?) NWFA Group Buy.
2. Starting Parts Kit - ($500) <broken link removed>
3. Foregrip - ($100) Whether at build or addon, it's getting <broken link removed> , and someday a TSMG-style maingrip if/when I find one or find someone to make me one.
4. Magazines - ($?) I like the Lancers, but the Elite Tactical ETS-230C with its integrated mag-couplers looks interesting too. Unsure if it's worth the extra over Lancer, or if the transparency of either is worth the cost over Gen 3 PMag, but buying two or more on a Slickguns deal puts it right at the upper limit of my per-mag budget tolerance.

ASSUMPTIONS:
1. I'm probably gonna have to replace the stock anyway, with my stubby little tyrannosaurish arms.
2. Flash-suppressor/blast-deflector upgrades are high on the Later Upgrades list, between the fact that this thing if fired in anger will be discharged in an Indoor CQB situation and the intent to replace the 15" handguard with a 16" or 17" eventually.
3. The ONLY long gun I've ever handled that was a good fit for me was an 07/SOT FFL friend's original 1921A Thompson, which is why I'm so interested in replicating TSMG ergonomics as much as I can. When you find something that seems to work for you, you tend to want to stick with it, you know? :)

Refinements and better ideas, particularly thoughts on mags, would be appreciated. :) I don't expect this weapon to ever have to go to war, and I hope it's never called upon to do the duty it's being designed for... but I also want to ensure that other than lacking select-fire capability my creation could hold its own anywhere if placed in skilled hands.
 
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I would not use the hitch pins. They are going to be long and stick out both sides and the rings will get in the way of your safety. I have a set on my welded lower (because it does not have detents) and the downward thumb sweep to flip your safety from safe to fire will hit that hitch pin. Not good.

I got a set of the titanium pins in one of my guns are the are very nice (though expensive). But they slide very easily. They are so much nicer than standard takedown pins.

BAD-EPS-Ti (Enhanced Pin Set - Titanium) AR15 | Battle Arms Development
 
Thanks--I should also note that I'm a southpaw, so the ring snag might be less of an issue though the length still is. Would a half-inch shorter pin possibly address that? The problem of "hanging up on things" is one to think on, and a definite downside to the "2-4 less fiddly-bits" factor.

The pins you link are definitely worth a look as a "later upgrade," as are the two stocks--I may just go with a pistol buffer-tube at first and not bother with fully shouldering. (That Thompson, the stock was there more for tail-weight than shoulder-mount as I was firing it--weird technique, but still was usually good for minute-of-milk-jug. LOL)
 
Thanks--I should also note that I'm a southpaw, so the ring snag might be less of an issue though the length still is. Would a half-inch shorter pin possibly address that? The problem of "hanging up on things" is one to think on, and a definite downside to the "2-4 less fiddly-bits" factor.

The pins you link are definitely worth a look as a "later upgrade," as are the two stocks--I may just go with a pistol buffer-tube at first and not bother with fully shouldering. (That Thompson, the stock was there more for tail-weight than shoulder-mount as I was firing it--weird technique, but still was usually good for minute-of-milk-jug. LOL)

trust me, the pin will interfere no matter what side the safety it is on. The ring will be on one side

20160805_085257.jpg

and if it is the other side, the pin needs to extend far enough to lock that it will interfere wtih the thumb. Its not a good solution.

20160805_085516.jpg

plain old standard takedown pins are fine. The detent system is reasonably well designed and does not need to be changed.
 
If you're going for light, and short, why would you want a heavy, wooden foregrip? What's wrong with a magwell grip? It costs you nothing, and gives you the shortest reach possible.
 
I predict this 1 page thread turns into 4 within a week:D.


I'm envious a bit, wish I were planning a build soon:cool:.
I started mine a few days ago. Spare receiver's been in the safe for two years, but I suddenly had an itch that needed scratching. All the parts should be here within a week. Just in time to take it to our little celebration at North Fork Wolf Creek...
 
Given that I'm stuck with length of barrel anyway... like I said, the thought was to replicate the ONE longarm I've handled that did fit, without the baggage of "Ewww icky un-PC GANGSTER GUN" if it actually had to be used like if I used a genuine Thompson for Home D.

Main problem with length is on the back-end, and I'm not up for NFA to go SBR to take the front down below 16".
 
Ive built over a dozen of these guns in the last year or so. a big piece of advice is to use Blue tape to protect the finish of your receivers when driving pins in.


anyway i'd recommend a nitride BCG. super easy to clean. alpha premium, ares armor, aero precision are all good. i prefer nitride because it is a chemical process done to the metal instead of a coating like nickel boron (correct me if im wrong) and can wear off/chip.

ive been using ballistic advantage and anderson for barrels. have had good luck with them so far!

JP yellow springs and a good polish are always a good choice for an enhanced trigger too.

for handguards, i prefer long(to the end of the barrel), super slim keymod or mlok style. i like guntec, midwest industries and UTG pro for those.

Buffer:spikes t2 spikes makes a whole 6 position reciever extension kit that comes with buffer,tube, spring, castle nut and end plate. its worth the extra $20 compared to buying an H2 buffer and extension.

muzzle brake/comp: surefire procomp, dpms miculek, precision armament m4-72. i wouldnt crush sleeve them, i would jam nut them. im a fan of brakes even though theyre LOUD! and i mean LOUD LOUD.


any questions feel free to PM me.
 
Maxx, there's a BCG in the "kit." One of the various nickel-boron (EDIT: or probably nitride) BCGs and a titanium FP are both Future Upgrades.

That Wise package, if I'm understanding the owner correctly from our emails the only thing that wouldn't be included in my "parts kit" is the lower receiver itself.
 
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im a fan of brakes even though theyre LOUD! and i mean LOUD LOUD.

Turned my AR from a loud .22lr type noise to the equiviant of my SKS - which will ring my bell without ear protection.

There is so little recoil from a .223 that it is almost just for looks on my gun - I'm not going to 3 gun comps or anything.
 
Sorry, complete missed the kit part.

I found out quite some time ago what the best quality/performance for the money was in the BCG, but i can't for the life of me remember what it was now :( I wanted to remember as at some point i will upgrade my Bushmaster.
 
Turned my AR from a loud .22lr type noise to the equiviant of my SKS - which will ring my bell without ear protection.

There is so little recoil from a .223 that it is almost just for looks on my gun - I'm not going to 3 gun comps or anything.
i hear ya. (no pun intended):rolleyes:

I like my pre dogsledding accident ARs to not even move at all when I shoot'm :D:D:D
 
You guys are gonna laugh at the "muzzle device" I really wanna build someday for another gun after this one's operational and I've got the more practical matters like classes, getting the Evil Old Ones squared away, etc., squared away.

Life-size casting of the head of a Western Diamondback Rattlesnake, with flash hider nestled into the mouth. Safety on, the mouth is closed; off, Open Wide and the fangs pop out ready to strike. (And at the back end, a rattle attached to the stock with a "shaker" mechanism to give light but perceptible tactile indicator that "safety's off, ready to put the bite on something. Yes, I plan to finish it in the same colors as an ornery ol' rattler too... :) This one would obviously be a Fun Gun, not a Serious Social Work one.)
 

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