Opinion - Ruger Precision Rifle, Which Caliber?

[etrain16]

Don't tell anyone ... But I have shot the Ruger Precision Rifle in .308 as well.
My muzzle loaders wouldn't talk to me for weeks afterwards ....

The rifle shot well at least for me.
We were using Federal 168 gain MBTHP style bullets and shot out to 200 yards.
It was a waaaay different felling rifle that what I am used to shooting.
It reminded a bit of the M16 series with the grip and all ... so the idea of working a bolt seemed awkward to me.

As we all can guess , I ain't rushing out to buy one... But the rifle did indeed shoot well.
Andy

Don't ever change Andy. It's great that there are folks that want to keep the history of those old single shot guns alive! Lots and lots of folks shoot the new stuff.

Would have been funny if you loaded it with one shot, fired then grabbed a powder horn, patch and ball to get ready to reload - just to see the look on your buddies faces "Hey, anybody got a powder horn with some spare IMR4064??"

 

[etrain16]

I am eventually going to buy one and will buy the .308.

The 6.5 might be the superior cartridge but the .308 is the more practical.

In my case I will be hard pressed to ever shoot over 600-700 yards. At those ranges the .308 will do just fine. I already own half a dozen rifles in .308 and really in my case what I want is a suppressed bolt gun that will shoot what I already shoot a bit better than what I already got.

And I think the 6.5 CM is a fine thing, but it's not magic like everyone seems to preach. If you are trying to punch paper at that magical 1200 yards I am sure there are benefits and it's a better choice. If it was me and I was planning on shooting at those ranges I would skip the RPR all together and buy a .416 Barrett

I don't need any prodding to want to add anything with the name Barrett to my collection. Some day, some day.

 

[fredball]

308 pm sent

 

[Certaindeaf]

I could certainly do that, or even a little more and get a Mossberg MVP, or something to that effect.

Fact is, I just love the RPR, don't know entirely what it is, but it's had my fancy since it came out, and I think it's an itch that needs to be scratched

Ha, me too. That's a badarse rig.
I woulda got one in .243 but now I'd have to scratch my head a bit too.

 

[Iceman04503]

My first bolt action gun is a RPR in 308. I don't reload so that was the obvious choice. But I got an itch for a RPR 6.5CM. I couldn't find them anywhere so I bought a Savage 12 LRP in 6.5CM. I love shooting both guns.

 

[3MTA3]

Punching holes in paper: 6.5 CM
Everything and everyone else: 308

Sure wish they would bring these out in a long action - I wants me one in 300 WM

 

[11Charlie]

@etrain16 Do you own a AR-10? If you don't and you go with the .308 then you will need one of those as well!

 

[Ura-Ki]

Having owned a RPR now for over a year i can tell you that it's worth getting into one.
Mine is a Gen 1 and so it needed some lovin to get it dialed in. Mine had the full length Rail handguard which required a 3/8 set of stand offs to clear a 50 mm objective scope, and that made the scope sit too high for a good fit with the adjustable cheek rest. I found an old AR-10 billet forend that fit and was slightly larger diameter, but cleared the scope with out the risers, so I installed that. nice thing was the new handguard/forend is shorter and it makes the rifle look a little better, and it nests in the sand bags a little better too. I changed the bolt extension/shroud to the MK-2 version and that helped out with making the bolt run smoother. The stock is where I see a need for improvements, it looks cool, but has a lot of plastic and needs help with the cam locks, but once you get it adjusted, just leave it locked and it isn't really any problem. I did make a extra large Kydex cheek pad that I bolted to the factory pad, it has more area to rest against and still clears the bolt, and while I was playing with the Kydex, I fabbed up a spare mag holder that mounts a second 10 round P-Mag to the right side of the stock under the off side of the cheek rest, this is a nice little addition to have as the vermin wackin can get pretty fast paced up here. Last is a good muzzle brake. I would have Velsey install one of his really good brakes on it and call it good.
Some observations.
Takes about 200 rounds to get the barrel fully broken in and the accuracy up to where the claims are, the forend needs to be lock tighted, the action is a little gritty feeling at first ( I had to take a die grinder and flap of cloth backed sanding paper and spin it for several min) to get rid of the factory tool marks and burs, and the trigger needed a little help with side to side slop which I fixed with some teflon shims. and the stock needs to be gone over with a razor blade and sand paper to knock down the rough spots and mold lines in some areas. Run the rifle lubed liberally at first until it gets broken in. Nice thing is it takes DPMS pattern P-Mags which are the same as my Savage 10T-SR so I don't have to stock different mags.
Overall, this is a very nice shooting rifle, gives you a lot to start out with, and has room to grow as you improve with it. it's expensive to start, but once you trick out one of the cheeper bolt guns, you actually end up better off with the Ruger. I never have been a fan of hammer forged barrels, but Ruger Has it down to a science, and once broken in, this sucker SHOOTS circles around most any factory rifle. Definitely get it in .308 and you will not be disappointed. Now for then to come out with a long action!!!

 

[etrain16]

@etrain16 Do you own a AR-10? If you don't and you go with the .308 then you will need one of those as well!

I do - kind of alluded to that in my OP, but didn't outright state it was an AR10. Other .308 is an M1A

 

[etrain16]

Having owned a RPR now for over a year i can tell you that it's worth getting into one.
Mine is a Gen 1 and so it needed some lovin to get it dialed in. Mine had the full length Rail handguard which required a 3/8 set of stand offs to clear a 50 mm objective scope, and that made the scope sit too high for a good fit with the adjustable cheek rest. I found an old AR-10 billet forend that fit and was slightly larger diameter, but cleared the scope with out the risers, so I installed that. nice thing was the new handguard/forend is shorter and it makes the rifle look a little better, and it nests in the sand bags a little better too. I changed the bolt extension/shroud to the MK-2 version and that helped out with making the bolt run smoother. The stock is where I see a need for improvements, it looks cool, but has a lot of plastic and needs help with the cam locks, but once you get it adjusted, just leave it locked and it isn't really any problem. I did make a extra large Kydex cheek pad that I bolted to the factory pad, it has more area to rest against and still clears the bolt, and while I was playing with the Kydex, I fabbed up a spare mag holder that mounts a second 10 round P-Mag to the right side of the stock under the off side of the cheek rest, this is a nice little addition to have as the vermin wackin can get pretty fast paced up here. Last is a good muzzle brake. I would have Velsey install one of his really good brakes on it and call it good.
Some observations.
Takes about 200 rounds to get the barrel fully broken in and the accuracy up to where the claims are, the forend needs to be lock tighted, the action is a little gritty feeling at first ( I had to take a die grinder and flap of cloth backed sanding paper and spin it for several min) to get rid of the factory tool marks and burs, and the trigger needed a little help with side to side slop which I fixed with some teflon shims. and the stock needs to be gone over with a razor blade and sand paper to knock down the rough spots and mold lines in some areas. Run the rifle lubed liberally at first until it gets broken in. Nice thing is it takes DPMS pattern P-Mags which are the same as my Savage 10T-SR so I don't have to stock different mags.
Overall, this is a very nice shooting rifle, gives you a lot to start out with, and has room to grow as you improve with it. it's expensive to start, but once you trick out one of the cheeper bolt guns, you actually end up better off with the Ruger. I never have been a fan of hammer forged barrels, but Ruger Has it down to a science, and once broken in, this sucker SHOOTS circles around most any factory rifle. Definitely get it in .308 and you will not be disappointed. Now for then to come out with a long action!!!

Great info. Agreed it's an expensive start, but on par with my M1A. I'm a newb at distance shooting so I can work out the grit and break-in period without worrying about grouping at 1,000 yards. Something I look forward to working up to in the years to come.

Always glad to hear such positive views of the RPR. Seems Ruger really has a winner in this one.

 

[11Charlie]

Having owned a RPR now for over a year i can tell you that it's worth getting into one.
Mine is a Gen 1 and so it needed some lovin to get it dialed in. Mine had the full length Rail handguard which required a 3/8 set of stand offs to clear a 50 mm objective scope, and that made the scope sit too high for a good fit with the adjustable cheek rest. I found an old AR-10 billet forend that fit and was slightly larger diameter, but cleared the scope with out the risers, so I installed that. nice thing was the new handguard/forend is shorter and it makes the rifle look a little better, and it nests in the sand bags a little better too. I changed the bolt extension/shroud to the MK-2 version and that helped out with making the bolt run smoother. The stock is where I see a need for improvements, it looks cool, but has a lot of plastic and needs help with the cam locks, but once you get it adjusted, just leave it locked and it isn't really any problem. I did make a extra large Kydex cheek pad that I bolted to the factory pad, it has more area to rest against and still clears the bolt, and while I was playing with the Kydex, I fabbed up a spare mag holder that mounts a second 10 round P-Mag to the right side of the stock under the off side of the cheek rest, this is a nice little addition to have as the vermin wackin can get pretty fast paced up here. Last is a good muzzle brake. I would have Velsey install one of his really good brakes on it and call it good.
Some observations.
Takes about 200 rounds to get the barrel fully broken in and the accuracy up to where the claims are, the forend needs to be lock tighted, the action is a little gritty feeling at first ( I had to take a die grinder and flap of cloth backed sanding paper and spin it for several min) to get rid of the factory tool marks and burs, and the trigger needed a little help with side to side slop which I fixed with some teflon shims. and the stock needs to be gone over with a razor blade and sand paper to knock down the rough spots and mold lines in some areas. Run the rifle lubed liberally at first until it gets broken in. Nice thing is it takes DPMS pattern P-Mags which are the same as my Savage 10T-SR so I don't have to stock different mags.
Overall, this is a very nice shooting rifle, gives you a lot to start out with, and has room to grow as you improve with it. it's expensive to start, but once you trick out one of the cheeper bolt guns, you actually end up better off with the Ruger. I never have been a fan of hammer forged barrels, but Ruger Has it down to a science, and once broken in, this sucker SHOOTS circles around most any factory rifle. Definitely get it in .308 and you will not be disappointed. Now for then to come out with a long action!!!

 

[B5Ben]

I would go with the 6.5 purely due to ballistics (0.610 BC with the 150 gr ELD-M's and .308's are lucky to touch .500 in a .308) but I'm wanting to punch paper at 1k. I would also get my hands on a savage BA stealth and Savage 12 LRP before making a financial commitment to anything. The RPR is a very fine rifle and has its benefits. I was in this very predicament just a few weeks ago. The BA stealth, unlike the RPR, isn't a unicorn and you can actually touch one in the wild (LGS). I liked the savage stealth for a few reasons:
1. I could touch and play with it first.
2. Excellent reviews for accuracy out of the box.
3. Barrel/caliber changes are easy with current and vast aftermarket support from many barrel manufacturers. It is afterall just a model 10 with a chassis.
4. It comes with scope base, one less thing to buy.
5. Adjustable Accu-trigger

So I went to my LGS to fondle it again one day and begin negotiations, that's when I saw the 12 LRP. Instantly loved the target accu trigger which is lighter than the standard accu-trigger and the HS stock and walked out with it 30 min later.

 

[Sgt Nambu]

.308!

 

[Ura-Ki]

Here is the Best mod you can make to the RPR, New forend!

 

[Ruger Rich]

Has to be .308. Remember, it was only a few years ago the .308 was used as a sniper round. .300 Win Mag and .338 Lapua have taken over that slot. It's time tested, and though there are many arguments for Creedmores they just might not stand the test of time. The .308 already has.

 

[edslhead]

I have the 243 RPR. I got the 243 because it has the 26' barrel and gets the most out of the round.I like it but for a little more you can get a nice chassis , action and barrel in whatever brands you want. The Ruger isn't the best of quality.

 

[11Charlie]

@etrain16 Did you buy it yet? LOL

 

[etrain16]

@etrain16 Did you buy it yet? LOL

Unless you're aware of a winning lottery ticket I haven't cashed in yet, that would be a no.

Starting to set $$ aside for it. I'm hoping to add it to the collection in 2017.

 

[11Charlie]

Unless you're aware of a winning lottery ticket I haven't cashed in yet, that would be a no.

Starting to set $$ aside for it. I'm hoping to add it to the collection in 2017.

lol I wish if I win I'll buy ya one.

 

[etrain16]

lol I wish if I win I'll buy ya one.

Cool I'm taking a screen shot of that post, just in case... And in the spirit of kindness, I'll offer the same in return.