Newbee cleaning SS Sparrow by hand - need proven methods

[Doc In UPlace]

I use a similar method, by coating a light film of TW 25B weapons grease on the baffles, inside and out.

Really makes a difference. Am interested in this anti-seize stuff too. If something works better than what we're using now, I'm always glad to check it out.

As to not cleaning, though the Sparrow has the 2-piece sleeve liner, some .22 cans will build up so much lead deposits that the thing becomes welded to the outer tube and won't come apart anymore.

This is why we prefer to have a dedicated .22 can instead of one built for centerfire rounds.

 

[Misternt]

The newer Sparrow is stainless. The older sparrow has an aluminum core. Using the dip or ultrasonic cleaning on aluminum core is a bad idea. It's also my understanding that even the stainless model the outer finish will get ruined by the dip and ultrasonic.

I have a stainless sparrow and shot a few thousand rounds through it. I haven't ever cleaned it with anything more then some hoppes, a brush intended for cleaning a 20 gauge shotgun bore, and a spent .223 casing to scrape away at the lead.

I'd be careful if you go the dip route and look up the precautions. The solution is very dangerous to your health and has to be disposed of properly.

Ammo makes a difference in how fast it gets gunked up. Plated ammo seems to leave less residue.

 

[bobschuckert]

Hey, guys. Well. my Sparrow SS is a winner. None of the products i have used (short of the "dip") have kept the lead from sticking to the SS clam shells. However, coating with the Nickel anti-sieze compound ($34.00 per 8 oz can on Amazon) protected the outer half of the inside of the can. I had lead build up that would not scrub off with "Gibbs" or non-chlorinated brake cleaner inside first 1/2 of the can but the last 1/2 of the can wiped totally clean after 200 rounds. The "dip" is 50% hydrogen peroxide and 50% white vinegar. I do not heat the solution up and I soak over night. I then drain the clam shells and scrub lightly with SS or brass brush and wipe down. The baffle has not been dipped yet. Justs spray Gibbs or the non-chlorinated brake cleaner, scrub with brass or SS brush, re-spray to clean off baffle and then wipe down. I re-coat the baffle and clam shells (both sides) and run a .22 cal brush through the can after I put is back together. There is no noticeable splatter, and FRP is removed for the first 1-3 mags. So far, I have fired 600 rounds of Aquilla 40 grain high speed rounds, 10 stinger rounds, 100+ CCI subsonic, and 100+ Winchester HP high velocity rounds and the Sparrow SS and MKIII Lite 22/45 have been "Perfect"!!!!! I do not see the SS Sparrow ever coming off the pistol except for cleaning and storage. I have installed the hammer bushing and the mags leave the grip frame like greased lightening - LOVE IT !!!

I am saving up for the Volquartsen or Clark trigger kit and the Burris Fastfire 3. I have read so many reviews and opinions on which sight is best for a medium to high grade sight and the Fastfire 3 is my choice. I am now looking to lower my Black Dog holster off my belt and down a little to remove the holster from digging into my "fat" at the belt line. Getting in and out of my auto was painfull as well. My Black Dog holster works BEAUTIFULLY now that I put a spacer in the high tension screw area which spread the holster wide enough to accept the SS Sparrow. About 3" of the can sticks out the end of the holster but gives the whole look of the rig and pistol a mean look. It clamps in the holster just right and drawing is a breeze. I have NO rattle at all.

 

[PDXSparky]

I do not see the SS Sparrow ever coming off the pistol except for cleaning and storage.

Really? Don't you have any .22LR rifles? My sparrow on my Savage FV-SR bolt is stupid quite. Makes me grin from ear to ear every time I shoot it.

I have 5 hosts for it so far and once I get my Mac 11 .22 conversion kit threaded, I'll put the sparrow on it as well.

 

[AMProducts]

The 50/50 vinegar/peroxide works well for removing powder fouling from just about anything. The only caveat: don't use it on anything blued, or that has a 'blackened" stainless finish... it will strip those finishes quite quickly.

The vinegar eats the lead and oxides making soluble lead acetate, which is toxic stuff, just ask the romans. The peroxide boosts the oxidative power of the mix, so it will oxidize other compounds in the fouling. It works great, but totally eats bluing.