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I'm the opposite, have 2 that are speed steel guns (ones SBRed) and Hiperfire triggers with the lightest pull springs installed (original line of their triggers) won't reset with .22LR. The hammer spring is too stiff and the round doesn't have the "umph" to reset it. It just short stroked the CMMG bolt. Me and my son both run Geissele S3Gs with very high reliability. My sons has over 15k rounds on it and mine (SBR) is close to 6K. Only issue I've had are broken firing pins (CMMG keeps replacing them). My sons never had that issue.
agreed, about the original. but the PDI works. I have a few of them. (they went on a great sale a few years back) my G 3Gs would do things it shouldn't do. I will leave it at that.
 
Swapped triggers with another rifle. Put 5 consecutive ground pops into the dirt in the backyard in a row. It's a plain jane mil-spec.

I'll run it as long as it works well. Though reading all the latest posts here, I am a bit worried that it will likely break trigger pins?

I'll look to get a set of anti walk pins.
 
Swapped triggers with another rifle. Put 5 consecutive ground pops into the dirt in the backyard in a row. It's a plain jane mil-spec.

I'll run it as long as it works well. Though reading all the latest posts here, I am a bit worried that it will likely break trigger pins?

I'll look to get a set of anti walk pins.
Uhh.... if you meant all the "pin" talk about breakage... we were talking about the CMMG 22lr bolt "firing pin". Not the trigger pin.
 
Uhh.... if you meant all the "pin" talk about breakage... we were talking about the CMMG 22lr bolt "firing pin". Not the trigger pin.
Didn't know those were prone to break. I'll definitely keep this in mind and look too quite a spare.
 
Got the thing back out today. Mil spec trigger. Did better but still struggling with non strikes. IE hammer drops and no marks on rim.

I ordered an increased reliability spring from JP to see if that will help get better strikes.
 
Ok, got the reliability spring kit and it helped. Recorded myself the best I could and noticed that the collar that goes on the barrel is the culprit. It will go reward with the bolt and on occasion not completely return. Then the hammer drops and it pushes the round and collar forward but no rim strike.

How do I get the collar to stay better?
 
Something like a lighter firing pin may solve the original problem.
 
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Not necessarily. I'm still having issues with failures to strike. I'm almost certain it's due to the collar moving rearward and not always returning home before the next trigger pull. I get a lot of click, nothing. Round in chamber ejects. No rim strike.

Im either going to rig up some form of tensioner to be placed into the cap area (no buffer tube), or buy the bore buddy set screw collar.

3rd option is to remove the rivet on the CMMG collar, tap it and use my own set screw.

Im leaning toward a tensioner of some sort as the other two will require a tool to remove the bolt assembly.
 
Would the reduced springs not cause more striking issues? Or is that to aid in cycling?

Sorry everyone I completely left out that this is a 22lr upper.

Current issues are not cycling issues. Striking issues. I'll get click, rack CH, check case, 0 marks on rim. At times I can run the trigger fast and get a handful of bangs in a row. If I go slow, definitely no bang, no rim mark.

Ill swap the thing around on other SBR lowers to see if the other triggers I got help.
The striking issues sounds like a bad firing pin. You should be able to visually check to make sure the bolt is fully closed when firing to confirm this.

If you watch some of the slow motion videos on the bore buddy sight you'll notice how the bolt hits hard and bounces there is a chance that on a bounce it's not tight on the rim and you are getting light strikes.

Using low power springs can cause issues as well. Your cassette trigger probably had light hammer spring. I didnt realize this my self when I took a working .22 upper using a RRA 2-stage trigger and standard springs after running close to 1000 rds and I thought to myself hey this is just a .22 maybe I should install low power springs for a even lighter trigger pull. Well what was a fully functional rifle turned into a Jamomatic just by adding those springs.

Having the Mil-spec springs after the trigger is pulled does something like adding a weight to the bolt it slows down bolt velocity.
 
Found this really late, but I recently built a 22lr upper and I've read that drop in triggers have issues with the CMMG style BCGs. I'm sure you got the trigger because you like it, but you'd probably be better off switching to a non drop in style / mil style trigger.
 
Ok, later to getting back to you all. I replaced the back plate 1913 adapter. I had a Strike Industries, swapped it for the bore buddy made one. The bore buddy has an adjustable plug that allows the user to set the tension against the 22lr bolt. I now have about 95% reliability.

I reached out to bore buddy with the question. They replied with their link. They know this issue exists and they solved it by making their own.

If you are running a folding (brace/stock) I'd highly recommend bore buddies 1913 adapter.

1689194492712.jpeg
 

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