Build Thread Modern-Day 6.5x55 Build

[ProdigalSon]

Starting a target rifle build. I settled pretty quick on 6.5x55 since it's a good caliber for range and accuracy, and more importantly, I have a ton of brass for it as a result of my love affair with my Swedish Mauser. Since it lets me do some of the work myself, and thus save some gunsmith time and cost, I'm going with a Savage action (deal in the works, just need to meet with the guy to do the transfer).

Right now, I'm thinking about what stock to use. I'm being pulled three ways - on one hand, I've always like a more traditional wood stock, and Sharp Shooter's Supply LVT stock looks like it could fit the bill if I put a DBM bottom metal on it for LA AICS magazines (Sharp Shooter Supply - The Savage Specialists). On the other hand, the MDT HS3 chassis with a PRS stock would be pretty sick, and probably more accurate and adjustable (HS3 Chassis system). Lastly, MDT has a new stock coming out, the ESS, that they're releasing after SHOT. (

) Any thoughts on what stock to go with?

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[ProdigalSon]

Huh. Posting the URL for a youtube video embeds it. Didn't know that.

 

[Ura-Ki]

Depending on the nature of your Target rifle build, I would go heavy laminate wood for maximum stability on the bench or rest! I have and always recommend Masterclass stocks, Specifically the F-Class Prone for most Rifle builds I have done. My Varmint Rifle in 6.5X55 swede has this stock, and my big Savage 110 .338L.M. has a bigger version that they made custom for me! I carve my for ends down to desired size and then run them through a table router to get the correct shape for a front rest, or for shooting off sand bags!

 

[MountainBear]

Not really a specialist on modern target rifle builds, but I am a large fan of the 6.5 x 55 cartridge.
It will be interesting to see the choices you make as this build progresses. The realm of kitchen table gunsmithing has its limitations, but it has certainly expanded over the last several years. There has always been options of what you could do yourself, but the level of quality that kitchen table gunsmith could reasonably expect to accomplish has certainly increased over the last decade or so.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

I too am looking forward to hearing more about this build. I have a lot of respect for savage rifles, in that they shoot lights out but aren't real pretty. Even the Stevens 200 (economy savage) can be quite surprising when it comes to excellent accuracy. I'm not into the whole benchrest shooting side of things, as it seems quite boring (no pun intended). I'm talking full blown bench rest gun, where shooters prefer free recoil, adjust the rest to target, and lightly touch the trigger. Give me a front rest and a rear sandbag and it's still fun though. OP, when you say "target rifle build" what is your intention or intended purpose for this rifle? FTR, full on bench rest, hunter class, etc. etc...? What kind of scope or is this going to be an iron sighted rifle like what's pictured in your avatar? Thanks and looking forward to seeing more on this build...

 

[B3dlam]

I would say you can't really go wrong with any of the modern chassis systems.
McRee
XLR
MDT
or any of the other brands will likely all give you better performance in a Precision Rifle Series style match rifle. The adjustability will serve you well plus their lighter weight is far more practical (believe me as someone who has a 26lb beast that weight can be a pain.)

 

[ProdigalSon]

B3dlam is on the right track - "precision rifle" might be the better term. I'm not really planning on using this for High Power; the idea is more of longer-range capable gun to kick around and try some long range "tactical" matches. It's going to get scoped; my KK300 fills the precision irons niche quite well (albeit limited range because.22LR - but also less expensive per shot).

 

[bsa1917hunter]

Hard to go wrong with the 6.5x55 Swede. Very accurate cartridge with a lot of mojo and cool factor going for it. I'm hoping you give those Creedmoor guys a run for their money!!

 

[ProdigalSon]

Progress update:

Stock - Found this guy via a very roundabout google trip - upon more digging, seems like there's not many out there, but those who have them love them. Quite tempted, actually - very close to what I want (and I can get it in red ): PDC Custom Gen 4

Barrel - I ordered this from McGowen about three weeks ago. Was quoted 10 weeks at least, but it's already done. Great service, but that changes my critical path in schedule. They're probably at SHOT right now, but no big deal; should ship next week. 26" 416 stainless, 11deg crown, straight taper from 1.063 at the action threads to 0.800 at the muzzle. Heavy, but this ain't no hunting gun, and I'm young - I can take it.

Action - Working on a deal with a gentleman here on the forums. Just need to meet and do the BGC. It's an older action, but that's fine - I was going to put in a Timney trigger anyhow, so I don't care that it's pre-Accutrigger (I honestly dislike those blade-in-trigger designs).

Scope - On the fence. There's a Sightron 3.5-10x44 on the forums here that looks pretty solid, but for only about $50 more I could get a SWFA SS 3-15x42 FFP, or for a couple Benjamins less I could get a Vortex HS-T. I could definitely use some input on this one - I'm generally an iron sight shooter, so I don't have much optics experience. I don't think I'll be spending enough time at really long range to warrant much more power than that. My normal practice range is only 200yds, so that would be typical, but I can find some places to reach out further on occasion.

 

[bsa1917hunter]

Go with the SWFA, that's a "no brainer".....

 

[B3dlam]

The SWFA could be a good option I have one of their 5-20x50 HDs on my AR-10.

I also am a huge fan of Vortex optics and have both a 6-24 pst and a 5-20 razor.

What is the price range you would like to keep the scope in? And with price range keep in mind the old 'spend as much on the scope as you do on the rifle or spend twice what the rifle costs on the scope' adage doesn't apply most of the time when you're talking about custom grade rifles.

 

[Swedish K]

The SWFA could be a good option I have one of their 5-20x50 HDs on my AR-10.

I also am a huge fan of Vortex optics and have both a 6-24 pst and a 5-20 razor.

What is the price range you would like to keep the scope in? And with price range keep in mind the old 'spend as much on the scope as you do on the rifle or spend twice what the rifle costs on the scope' adage doesn't apply most of the time when you're talking about custom grade rifles.

****** tangent alert ******
LOL - years ago I lived in northern Colorado and had a friend who worked at Burris - he had a $1400 or so scope (their top of the line at that time) on his old beater 10/22 - it was pretty much useless under 50 yards unless you wanted to count nose hairs.

********* Now back to the regularly scheduled program **********

OP - sounds like you have a solid plan for your build. hope it turns out better than you expect!

 

[ProdigalSon]

Progress update: got an action. In a prior life, this was a .270 Win. beater hunting rifle. S/O to @mike098777 for getting me a solid deal on the donor rifle. Some steel wool and a cleaning got the bolt nice and shiny, and everything else looks to be in pretty good condition. It's 2-screw trigger, doesn't have the fixed sheet metal DBM guide that older actions have. It's a G-prefix serial number, which implies that it was made in the transition period to the accutrigger (but doesn't actually have one). The new barrel should be getting in sometime in the next couple of days, and then I'll put up some before and after pictures.

The trigger on this is surprisingly good. Not good enough for my spoiled tastes, but for a hunting rifle, it would have been quite nice. I messed around with it some and was able to drop the weight to maybe 4ish lb, and with almost no pre or over travel. I'm still replacing it with a Timney, but it's not as necessary as I was expecting.

One thing that really interested me was how tight the bolt rear screw was. For those that don't know, the back end of a Savage bolt is a 1/4 hex screw that tensions the springs and keeps everything together. I literally had to stand on it, with one foot and the bolt handle and the other on my hex wrench, to break it free. Looking on the interwebs, though, it seems that it's standard practice at Savage Arms to torque the rear bolt screw to infinity and beyond.

Also, I decided on a scope. Spent the money, got a MIL/MIL 3-15x42 FFP SWFA SS. I've heard to many good things about them, and I've always though that that FFP is a better system (because your subtensions are constant as you zoom). I hope I haven't been lead astray, but I have yet to find bad reviews of them. Short notice, but I'm one of those guys who will do a lot of research in a short amount of time (read: I devote an entire couple evenings to one topic) and then quickly make a decision. As a friend said to me: "Women shop. Men purchase."

 

[Ura-Ki]

I think your on a good solid track, Savage Actions are a pretty good bases to start from, and the floating bolt face makes a time consuming job of tuning the breach face to exactly match the barrel a none issue! Still wanna tune the barrel face and the front of the receiver for perfect alignment, and your pretty much done!

 

[B3dlam]

FFP is definitely the way to go especially when you start doing things like engaging moving targets where your max zoom may not be ideal. I have the 5-20x50 HD from SWFA and like it their mil-quad reticle isn't bad at all. The 3-15 isn't out o their HD line but its still solid as I understand it although I haven't played with one personally I know 8541 tactical did a review on it on youtube and it got a decent review as I recall.

 

[ProdigalSon]

Progress update - with pictures!

I got the barrel, trigger, and tools the other day.


Apparently when you buy a Timney you also get a Tootsie pop. Can't complain.


Donor action wrenched up, clamped down, and ready to be disassembled.


See that hammer? I needed to beat on the barrel nut wrench to get it loose. Thing was unbelievably tight. Neighbors probably weren't a huge fan, but that's what they get for living in the same apartment complex as me. You can also see some scratch marks on the old barrel from where my Robogrips slipped. I don't really care since I had no plans for the barrel. If any of you want it, along with the old barrel nut and recoil lug, I'll ship it to you free so long as you pay the shipping (it's a factory Savage .270 sporter).


With the barrel off, I could zero my calipers onto the bolt face and check primary extraction. I understand that the spec for Savages is 0.05-0.08, so I should be GTG.

And, the new stuff:










After I got the barrel screwed on (plus new, precision-cut barrel nut and recoil lug from Northland Shooters Supply), I put on a Weaver 20MOA rail I'd got off Amazon, swapped on the Timney, and admired the beauty of this. I'll be getting a stainless bolt handle and the scope in the mail this week. The chassis will probably take some time, so I borrowed a friend's Dremel and buzzed out the barrel channel on the old stock to fit this beast of a barrel since I'm a bit impatient to shoot this thing.

I also discovered an unfortunate fact while headspacing this. I got the gauges set and good, then I tried a sized case that had been first fired out of my Mauser. Nada. Wouldn't close. Double-checked with the gauges, it was good. Pulled out the firing pin then tried a new factory round. It was good. Thought maybe that case was janky, tried a few others. Still nada. After some research, I found that Swedish military chambers have longer headspace than SAAMI spec. All that brass I was hoping to use is no good for this thing, meaning I may as well have used a different caliber. I mean, 6.5x55 is still an awesome caliber, and I can still reload for both rifles using the same tools, primers, dies, bullets, etc., but once a case has been used in the Mauser, it has to stay with the Mauser. I guess from this point forward, all my new ammo will go through the Savage first and I'll just try to work through my case backlog for the Mauser until I can reach some level of parity (and that will take a while given how much brass I have).

 

[ProdigalSon]

And done...





McRee G7 stock with Anschutz-slot fore-end, H-221 Crimson Cerakote, Magpul K2+ grip, SWFA SS 3-15x42 FFP Mil-Quad, Timney trigger, Short Action Precision sling, McGowen varmint profile barrel.

 

[tac]

One thing that really interested me was how tight the bolt rear screw was. For those that don't know, the back end of a Savage bolt is a 1/4 hex screw that tensions the springs and keeps everything together. I literally had to stand on it, with one foot and the bolt handle and the other on my hex wrench, to break it free. Looking on the interwebs, though, it seems that it's standard practice at Savage Arms to torque the rear bolt screw to infinity and beyond.

Don't forget to replace that bolt rear screw now. They will only do up to the Savage factory setting once.

Pretend it's a helicopter that you are building and you'll be just fine.

tac

 

[Swedish K]

Don't forget to replace that bolt rear screw now. They will only do up to the Savage factory setting once.

Pretend it's a helicopter that you are building and you'll be just fine.

tac

LOL - make sure that Jesus nut isn't going to come loose during flight I take it?

 

[No_Regerts]

So, did you resize the case before you tried to chamber it?