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Andy,
I made a clip out of left over brass from the barrel bands and filed a notch in it.:D
It fits tightly over the rear sight, but will slide, giving me windage. That should do the trick.:)
Also, the 25 plastic screw top vials I ordered came in and they are now all filled with 50gr. of FFG.:D
Lets Rock and Roll !!! :eek:
 
Can't stop tinkering..:rolleyes:
Added a ram rod...Under the forearm, as I didn't want to cut another groove in the stock.o_O
Used a couple of aluminum spacers for the ferrells as I have a box full of them. I double
holed them and attached them with a couple of copper boat nails.
* Note to self: Next time use a clamp to hold things in the V-block when drilling. It saves on
fingers..:eek:

36-Ram Rod.jpg
 
I looked up Chinese characters on the WEB and that one says, "Fire Dragon".
I traced the glyph and stippled it with my etching pen, then I covered it with
some red touch up paint.

Just more tinkering...:)
 
From another tinkeror
To darken the brass might try egg yolk, but that might only work for silver.
Next build might find a downed branch of walnut.
"Humor is a double edged sword";;;
At least it's not pressure treated.
You sure that symbol isn't diaper dragon?
Sorry for that but it came to mind, pm me an address and I'll send you my building left overs(I am moving) and it would be better than just throwing them in the dumpster. If you're ever down towards Oregon City I have a piece of wood for your next rifle.
Try using German silver plate for your solder jobs, but I used to buy parts from Track of wolf when things were cheap.
From one of those catalogs: making leaf flat spring from mild steel came in handy for me, completely form then heat to cherry red then quench in cold water, then 'draw' back for 45 min at 750 degrees (edit:used an electric stove and lead thermometer)and let air cool.
I bought the flat mild steel sheet in those catalogs also.
Good building.
 
FWIW Brownells published a series of books called Links and in the 4 book set you will find a great number of helpful hints on working with metal and wood. They also sell many of the specialty tools and materials. You can also contact them and explain your problem and they'll offer lots of great information. I'm not sure if it's still available but it used to be!!!:):):)
 
Turq,
I appreciate your offer of the parts, but I'm tinkering around with the build, just to prove to myself I could do it.:rolleyes:
I'm sure there are a dozen or more people on this Site that would love to take you up on your offer.:)
 
Remember to just keep making a new "improved" Model.
I made about 8 underhammer actions before I ever put one in a rifle. It was the hammer pivot vs the trigger pivot for the correct feel/action.
Remember if you need a pivot of 1/4" the ground pins at an Ace hardware are nice, in German silver they are smooth pivoting, almost self lubed.
 
Here is the first bench session. The video says it's too large to load.:mad:
It's OK, for patched marbles out of a smoothbore, at 15 yards. :rolleyes:
You don't need a spotting scope.:)
(50gr. of 2F) I was having a lot of ignition failures with 2F in the pan. Next time out I'll try 3F, or 4F.:(

Musket Target.jpg
 
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37-first-4f-target-jpg.8995
Used 4F powder in the pan Thursday. Reliability was 98%, two shots were slow to ignite. Accuracy was a lot better too. Progressive Bifocals started causing trouble off of the bench at 25 yards and things were getting fuzzy. I think I'll buy a cheap pair of single vision. Either that, or quit drinking coffee before I shoot. It's looking better.:)
PS. My wife said there was a deer watching me from the butts, so I guess my accuracy wasn't all that intimidating.:(
 

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