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I've used 284 Winchester for 7.5x55 Swiss, before reloadable brass was readily available. Now days the 284 brass is worth more than 7.5 brass.

If you need 450 Bushmaster brass, let me know. I have some that I've accumulated, and I don't use that caliber.
I've been a "brass scrounger" for a long time, and things I pick up and can't use go to those that can. Good philosophy.
 

slm9s

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Once in a while I get a FL sizer that won't size brass quite enough for a particular rife. A trick I've done is to take the shell holder in vice grips and use the bench grinder to just take a little material off the top, allowing the brass to go into the die a bit more. This has proved to be enough in both instances where I've had the problem. You could also take some off the bottom of the die, but shellholders are a lot cheaper!
 

arakboss

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Once in a while I get a FL sizer that won't size brass quite enough for a particular rife. A trick I've done is to take the shell holder in vice grips and use the bench grinder to just take a little material off the top, allowing the brass to go into the die a bit more. This has proved to be enough in both instances where I've had the problem. You could also take some off the bottom of the die, but shellholders are a lot cheaper!
That sounds cheaper than buying a small base sizing die.
 

arakboss

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I bought some Winchester 350 Legend ammo yesterday and comparing it to 9mm the rounds share very comparable dimensions at the top 1/2 inch or so of the loaded cases. I am thinking that a 9mm or 357/38 sizing die could neck size the 350 Legend brass? Any reasons why this likely won't work?
 
I used to cut down 30-06 /.308 cases and reload them as shot shells for my 1917 Colt. I used .410 wads and roll crimped them with a .44 die. :)
Making basically a 45 ACP shotshell?
Once in a while I get a FL sizer that won't size brass quite enough for a particular rife. A trick I've done is to take the shell holder in vice grips and use the bench grinder to just take a little material off the top, allowing the brass to go into the die a bit more. This has proved to be enough in both instances where I've had the problem. You could also take some off the bottom of the die, but shellholders are a lot cheaper!
I've done the opposite. Because I use a Dillon 550 for darn near everything I can't shorten the shellholder, but I can trim the die. I took the base of the die to the bench grinder on a Hornady 7mm-08 sizer. The Redding die for 30-06 Ackley I just got needed a little trimming to correctly size the case, too. This time I did it on a lathe. Same effect, but looks much nicer.
 

ageingstudent

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What are some unconventional reloading tips and tricks you have learned? If you have a reloading idea that doesn't fit the script, post it here. Examples could be case conversions, die usage outside of labeled cartridge, bullet sizing from one caliber to a different caliber, etc.
So if you ever run across a 1907 Winchester in .351 WSL or a 1910 Winchester in .401 WSL don't despair about finding ammo. I make .351 out of standard .357 brass and pc cast bullets for about 15 cents apiece. I can make .401 for about .20 cents with 7.62x39 brass. Even made my own set of expanders. Darned if they don't work just fine. Factory ammo for these calibers is specialty and will cost you somewhere between two and 3 dollars per round and you have to wait for them.

You don't even need 351 dies. First I turn down the rim on a .357 case on my brass lathe to make it a semi-rimmed case. I use a .357 sizer (#19 lee shellholder) to full size followed by a .380 sizer just to neck down the mouth of the case to accept the .352 projectile. It provides perfect neck tension. Then I use a universal expander to flare the case, drop the powder and cap it with a .352 sized .357 cast bullet. Cheap and they shoot like a champ. I can get 6-8 reloads out of quality brass before they split.
 

arakboss

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So if you ever run across a 1907 Winchester in .351 WSL or a 1910 Winchester in .401 WSL don't despair about finding ammo. I make .351 out of standard .357 brass and pc cast bullets for about 15 cents apiece. I can make .401 for about .20 cents with 7.62x39 brass. Even made my own set of expanders. Darned if they don't work just fine. Factory ammo for these calibers is specialty and will cost you somewhere between two and 3 dollars per round and you have to wait for them.

You don't even need 351 dies. First I turn down the rim on a .357 case on my brass lathe to make it a semi-rimmed case. I use a .357 sizer (#19 lee shellholder) to full size followed by a .380 sizer just to neck down the mouth of the case to accept the .352 projectile. It provides perfect neck tension. Then I use a universal expander to flare the case, drop the powder and cap it with a .352 sized .357 cast bullet. Cheap and they shoot like a champ. I can get 6-8 reloads out of quality brass before they split.
That's awesome.
 
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I've been a "brass scrounger" for a long time, and things I pick up and can't use go to those that can. Good philosophy.
You would have loved to have been on our range today. Some rich guy dumped 100 .243 empties from Norma factory ammunition he'd just fired. I asked him if he'd meant to do that, and he advised me that 'reloading is for poor people, and I'm not poor'.

He'll go far in our club - the further, the better, IMO.
 

ageingstudent

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That's awesome.
Oh yeah...small rifle primers...CCI small pistol might work because they seem to be a little tougher. In my experience the Federal and Remmington and S&B sp primers tend to pierce with 4227 or 5744 powder. Gosh it's a great gun so much fun to shoot. Whenever I take it out other people want to shoot it. I love being able to afford other people to shoot it. Especially the youngsters. It's a history lesson.
 
You would have loved to have been on our range today. Some rich guy dumped 100 .243 empties from Norma factory ammunition he'd just fired. I asked him if he'd meant to do that, and he advised me that 'reloading is for poor people, and I'm not poor'.

He'll go far in our club - the further, the better, IMO.
You should have replied "Reloading is for people that enjoy the hobby and aren't a slave to work and money."
 
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Capn Jack

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This is how I seat soft hollow points in 9mm. To keep from deforming the bullets, I found some threaded rod the same size as the bullet seater and turned the tip to the same demention as the mold insert. Pushing down from the inside doesn't tend to flatten the bullet. HP Seating Tool-2.jpg HP Seating Tool-1.jpg
 
If he had been shooting a .458S, I would have just smiled. :s0093:

And filled my pockets....:rolleyes:
Doesn't 458 Socom pattern off the 284 Winchester? Tac's fellow club member was poo-pooing 243 Winchester. I'd just say, "I'm poor, can I have your spent brass?" A guy I know gives me a bunch of 300 RUM for that reason, which I use to make 338 Edge.
 
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