Is my TC Contender a Gen1 or Gen 2?

[Freitag4619]

I recently was gifted a set of TC Contenders from my mom, who bought them from a nice old man at church, who got them from his dad. There are 5 barrels and 3 receivers. The .357 Mag Barrel and its receiver are satin finished stainless, so let's call them a matched set. But the other two receivers and 4 barrels are blued. All three receivers have the panther engraving. The first blued receiver fits the .44 Mag and .222 Rem barrels and the second blued receiver fits the 7mm TCU and .22LR barrels (I don't want to keep those barrels). But the Second blue receiver will not release the .44Mag or .222Rem barrels when I close the action, I have to take the gun apart and manually release them barrels. Are there any identifying marks on the barrels to tell Gen 1 or Gen 2? Two of the receivers have a rotating fire ping selector and the 3rd receiver has a sliding bolt for a selector that simply hits both Rim/Center firing pins at the same time. I can post pictures if that helps.

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[Bobbygun]

If you go to Wikipedia, it lists year of manufacture by serial number. G2 started in 1998.

Thompson/Center Contender - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org

I feel your pain on the having to take a gun apart to get the barrel off. Both of my Contender frames are G1, but I've had that problem anyway. What I've noticed is, for the one built in 1970, there is no split in the rearward-most part (maybe "lug" is the part name?) right below the non-business end of the barrel. The other built in 1993 does have a split in that same small part. Consequently, as long as I use barrels without the split in the older one, and with the split in the newer one, the barrels don't get stuck. The split is right in the middle of the small dimple on the lug. If you hold the barrels side by side, it is pretty obvious.

Edit to add: Although my Contender frames are both G1 frames, they do have different selector mechanisms. The newer one has the three position selector switch. The older one doesn't - just a slotted screw head in the front face of the hammer.

 

[crstrode]

This is the best answer addressing your problem.

What I've noticed is, for the one built in 1970, there is no split in the rearward-most part (maybe "lug" is the part name?) right below the non-business end of the barrel. The other built in 1993 does have a split in that same small part. Consequently, as long as I use barrels without the split in the older one, and with the split in the newer one, the barrels don't get stuck. The split is right in the middle of the small dimple on the lug. If you hold the barrels side by side, it is pretty obvious.​

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Judicious stoning will solve the difficult latch/unlatch of the gun and barrel exchange. There are places online that explain the procedure. I have done it myself with excellent results.

Bring the barrels and frame to an old grey-haired gunsmith if you are not confident of your gunsmithing skills. It only takes a very very slight modification to make things work, but a teensy bit more will render your goodies into baddies.


Use a stone, such as one for sharpening knives, finer the better.
Do not use a file!
You can't put the metal back!
Take your time.
Check your progress on multiple occasions by reassembly and response of the action.

Process can be attempted while locking lug is in place, but access to the necessary planes of bolt are more readily available if removed.
Proper size drive punch will easily remove 'c' pin.
I've dressed many a bolt and repeated reinstall to assure proper fit is needed.
When you find a bolt that has been excessively, or improperly filed, you may detect a loose fit on lockup to frame.

Strongest recommendation is use a stone to polish lug's face (top).
patience and luck be with you.

I've done it without removing the lugs, but maybe I'm just lucky . . .

 

[Freitag4619]

Thank you crstrode and Bobbygun. So the stainless .357 Mag receiver and barrel set has a serial number of A6121. The stainless serial numbers start with an S. Is the A for Aluminum??

 

[bcp]

The A prefix may be for Armor Alloy, a coating that looks like stainless, and often doesn't allow interchange with blued components due to the coating making the dimensions larger.

Bruce

 

[Bobbygun]

I believe @bcp is on to something.

I found the following statement on an Internet forum, so I can't vouch for its accuracy (but lean toward believing it):

The Armor Alloy Contender...
T'C's own literature mentions that Blued and AA2 frames and barrels are NOT interchangeable. AA2 frames are preceded with "A" on their serial numbers, the right side of their barrel lugs are stamped "AA" as well.
Armor Alloy manufacture dates (only two years) were prior to April 1984
No number/date tables available

 

[Explorer1]

Remember, TC moved the trigger mechanism pivot point from the original location to make them open easier.

 

[Freitag4619]

Thank you everyone for your replies and answering my questions. I will be whipping out the stone here shortly.

 

[justonemorear]

If you want a real education on them go to Graybeard
Been a member there since '07