interested in loading steel cased 7.62X39 need to know what dies i would need

[Dima Prok]

I hear you DunRanull, I remember when AK rounds were 20 cents at local Walmart and it wasn't that long ago, maybe 6-7 years ago. But those times are gone and I already have 5k of bullets I am sitting on and bunch of 1680 and I got Dillon RL1100 with the right conversion so I might as well do it. Current prices for steel case ammo is in 40 cents neighborhood. Cost to reload would be about 30 cents, not the greatest savings but I rather see them put to use.

Someone said these 123gr Berry's don't shoot sell, I don't know about AK accuracy, but I shot them out of my 300 HAM'R sized and unsized and they gave me 1.25 - 1.5 MOA with velocity close to 2400fps out of 16" barrel so that's pretty good for me.

 

[bcp]

The second time you load your brass cases you have only bullet, powder, and primer costs.

And third, fourth, etc.

.

Bruce

 

[fstdraw]

I had made the comment about the Berry's not shooting well in my AK's. It's a short bullet and I found it hard to find a good OACL. Besides I like to crimp at a groove.

.30 is about right per round with boxer primer. Same for Berdan primer but I don't chase my steel cases.

I don't think you need to crimp the steel cases, I've never crimped them.

Good luck, it's a nice loading cartridge.

 

[DunRanull]

Would you mind sharing your setup / procedure for reloading steel cased ammo? I am not ready to dive into such a project but it would be nice to under stand how the process differs from brass from someone that has done it before should the need ever arise?

1) Were you reloading factory primed steel cases like @dondoo1315 is considering or where you supplying the primer? Berdan primers I would guess?
2) Do you full length size the steel cases? Or just neck size? With what type of die?
3) What did you use to crimp the case around the bullet?

Just curious more than anything, thanks!

I've reloaded ww2-era (1943) steel-cased .45acp ammo with no negative results. Most suggested that I not do that as steel doesnt have the same metallurgical (expansion) qualities as brass. The primers are boxer so that wasnt an issue. Reloading berdan in steel cases might be a additional issue. Still, being able to reload ammo down the road after a SHTF event might make it worth while if it can be done SAFELY. Cast wheel-weight/scrap lead projectiles, hmmm maybe so...

 

[ma96782]

For me.....I thought about it........

Pros and Cons
1) Steel cases will probably/might be more prone to scratching my dies. Rrrrright.....keeping even my used brass cases clean enough can be a problem, sometimes.
2) The die sets for 7.62x39mm and 7.62x54r usually/maybe/sometimes come with neck expanders for usage with .308" bullets and .311"/.312 bullets.
3) More and more, loading data is available.
4) For me.....I'd forget about Berdan primers. Decapping and just finding a good source are a PIA.
5) The brass cases for those calibers are NOT cheap.

BUT, But, but......
Why? I got plenty of surplus ammo stashed away.

Then......
It's NOT like I expect MOA out of those cartridges or rifles anyway.

OK, Ok, ok........maybe it would be........



To play with or as a challenge.

Aloha, Mark

 

[Dillon1000]

Steel case ammo is not good for your gun. it's steel on steel. Made for war and
didn't care about the rifles. If you want the gun to last DO NOT USE STEEL.

 

[fstdraw]

100 billion steel rounds can't be wrong.

 

[osprey]

Steel case ammo is not good for your gun. it's steel on steel. Made for war and
didn't care about the rifles. If you want the gun to last DO NOT USE STEEL.

Meh, The steel cases and bi-metal projectiles are a much softer alloy than your barrel is made from. Most will never shoot enough rounds to see any accelerated wear from using steel cased ammo. Ymmv but I still have a good stock of steel 7.62x39 that works great through several guns.

 

[Dillon1000]

I was just repeating what people have said over the years. I was never a fan of the 762. the design of the
gun is great, I have always been a fan of the piston guns and the 47 is almost indestructible. It's not the most accurate gun in the world but it did a better job than the original M16. I own four AR 15's that are piston guns and would not trade them for anything. A friend of mine decided he was going to find out how many rounds he could put through his piston gun without cleaning it. He made it to 7018 before it stopped shooting. He cleaned it and went back to shooting. These are early Adams Arms, the newer ones are junk. The only trouble that I know of was
they had to change the push rods out because the steel was not strong enough and some of them bent.
Any way thanks for the come back. DJ

 

[wired]

For me.....I thought about it........

Pros and Cons
1) Steel cases will probably/might be more prone to scratching my dies. Rrrrright.....keeping even my used brass cases clean enough can be a problem, sometimes.
2) The die sets for 7.62x39mm and 7.62x54r usually/maybe/sometimes come with neck expanders for usage with .308" bullets and .311"/.312 bullets.
3) More and more, loading data is available.
4) For me.....I'd forget about Berdan primers. Decapping and just finding a good source are a PIA.
5) The brass cases for those calibers are NOT cheap.

BUT, But, but......
Why? I got plenty of surplus ammo stashed away.

Then......
It's NOT like I expect MOA out of those cartridges or rifles anyway.

OK, Ok, ok........maybe it would be........

View attachment 1735590

To play with or as a challenge.

Aloha, Mark

Brass for 7.62x39 is a lot cheaper than it used to be and steel is a lot more than it used to be. For loaded ammo theyre getting close to the same price point.

 

[wired]

Steel case ammo is not good for your gun. it's steel on steel. Made for war and
didn't care about the rifles. If you want the gun to last DO NOT USE STEEL.

FWIW the difference in price between steel case ammo and one case of brass cased ammo is more than the cost of a barrel.

Cartridge steel is soft. Its not a real problem.

 

[Dillon1000]

If you can find some one that makes that Cal. in Carbide, that would be the only way
I would go. Thinking about it, get yourself some good lube. If these are fired, they are going to be tough because of the sloppy chambers in the 47's.

 

[fstdraw]

I have resized a couple of thousand steel cases. I have multiple dies, I just keep using the same one on them. You are correct however, they do need a lot of lube. After I stainless steel wet, tumbled them, I sprayed them with lacquer a couple of times, and they do not rust.