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Inherited a S&W Model 36 - Need help restoring

Discussion in 'Handgun Discussion' started by edbrewhead, Feb 18, 2013.

  1. edbrewhead

    edbrewhead Portland, Oregon New Member

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    It was a rusty mess when I got it the other day. Took the grips of and gave it an oil bath overnight. Been laying into it with a bronze brush and fine steel wool. I cleaned it the best I can. The internals were not rusted (thank god). The hammer still has some rust as does the frame. Some small spots on the cylinder. Anybody have a bead blaster and a polishing wheel? Or know somebody inexpensive that can help me prep it for a reblue? Any help would be great. The goal is not to put a lot of money into as I'm sure its not worth a lot. I know I'm kind of reaching here.
     
  2. 2506

    2506 Seattle Well-Known Member

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  3. Mark W.

    Mark W. Silverton, OR Bronze Supporter Bronze Supporter

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    Most gun smiths that do rebluing will only gaurentee the work if they do the prep. Since the prep is the most important part.

    If you are going as far as a reblue due to rust conditions its collector value is shot. You might instead look at cleaing the rust chemically then smoothing the metal with Duracoat Durafill and then coating the gun with the Duracoat color of your choice. They have a dozen different blacks which would look suitable.

    I'm currently doing the same with a Remington 870 Express that has had a hard life. I'm going to clean the metal fill any imprefections with Durafill and then top coat with Rem 870 Black and attach a set of very nice mid 1960's Wingmaster wood I have to make a nice field gun for duck and pheasent.
     
  4. ch139

    ch139 teh gehtoe Active Member

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    Yep! Only way to go if the gun is in a condition for restoration and thats what you're wanting to do. At that point too you'll have somewhat of a "pedigree" if you ever go to sell the gun, make sure the invoice from S&W is there too to validate the work. Having Smith & Wesson do the work will add value. Probably never be worth more than any other similar Model 36 though, so make sure it pencils out.

    Like Mark said though, if the gun is too far gone for a nice restoration a good durable refinish might be the way to go. Personally not a fan of the sprayed-on finishes, so, if the pitting isn't too bad I'd have it parkerized. Thats just me though.

    ETA: kinda thinking a little parkerized 36 would be just awesome... might need to find one for myself
     
  5. Blitzkrieg

    Blitzkrieg WA Well-Known Member

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    Look into NW Ceracote.. they have a sub forum here. This may be a chance for you to have a nice custom color (two tone?) Ceracote hideout piece
     
    jbett98 and (deleted member) like this.
  6. MountainBear

    MountainBear Sweet Home, OR Well-Known Member

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    Cerakote is usually a good option. I prefer standard bluing on S&W revolvers. Honestly, none I've seen matte or carakoted have really done it for me. If it were mine, I would send it back to S&W to be polished and blued. But that's just me.
     
  7. Blitzkrieg

    Blitzkrieg WA Well-Known Member

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    With a piece like this that's already kinda messed up I guess the traditionalist in me fades a bit

    I think I'd go with a matte or satin black gun and a grey-silver cylinder
     
  8. edbrewhead

    edbrewhead Portland, Oregon New Member

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    Called Cerakote. The price is right for the refinishing, but the extent of the prepwork is just degreasing bath and media blasting. The guy I spoke with said that if it needed any polishing beyond just media blasting it would be my best bet to take care of it before I sent the parts to be coated. Unless I wanted to pay his gunsmith something like $60-$80 an hour to do the prep work. To have the gun coated in any color(s) I wanted would only be about $180. Thats a pretty good deal. I do like the colors they provide. :)

    Called S&W. All the prep would would be provided with the blueing. And that High polish blue looks like it would be the beez-knees. I think for the refinishing and a new hammer, sideplate screws and internal springs would be $300.

    Im leaning towards the S&W route personally. Thank you for all of the good feedback guys.
     
  9. taroman

    taroman Willamette Valley Active Member

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    If you do decide to send the gun to S&W, a tip is to ship it priority mail through an FFL.
    They can do it, you can't (legally).
    A great reason to have a solid relationship with a local FFL. Mine does this free, yours may or may not.
    If the FFL ships it, it comes back to him. There's no background BS required on repair jobs, however.
    S&W will tell you to overnight it with Fedex or UPS. That will ding you at least $65.
    If you send it direct, S&W will ship to your house direct (about $14, IIRC).
    They get a big break from Fedex.

    Another thing. Polishing a revolver is almost an art. While there may be local shop that can do this job properly, all that I've seen just buff the he!! out of it with a big power wheel. Shiny, but has a melted look with lettering and edges dished out.
    S&W does perfect work, IMHO:
    29-2.jpg
    Had my 29-2 done by them a couple years back.


    29-2.jpg
     
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  10. taroman

    taroman Willamette Valley Active Member

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    The law.
     
  11. Blitzkrieg

    Blitzkrieg WA Well-Known Member

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    titsonritz is correct
     
  12. ch139

    ch139 teh gehtoe Active Member

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    Yes and no; he is saying two different things there, and taroman was correct in what he said too.

    Clear as mud?

    So, as titsonritz said, it is legal for an for an individual to ship a handgun to an FFL and for the FFL to send the gun back to the individual) out of state via private carriers (UPS, FedEx, et.al). Those private carriers have a policy that if yer shipping a handgun with them it MUST go next day air which is expensive (this is where taroman's comment comes in). Priority mail is much less expensive. An individual (non FFL) can not send a handgun through the mail. For an FFL on the other hand, it is legal to send a handgun through the mail, just has to go to and from FFLs.