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generic body armor

Discussion in 'Gear & Accessories' started by johnboy67, Jun 24, 2016.

  1. johnboy67

    johnboy67 williamsburg,va. New Member

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    Anyone consider ordering 1" UHMWPE from a plastic mfg. and use it for ballistic pro?
     
  2. Page.k

    Page.k Seattle Active Member

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    I don't think that'll be the best option to use. From the way it bonds you'll need to use layers of it placed in different directions to get the best results. The long bonds overlap each other with in the sheet and you don't know what direction the bonds are aligned so layering is the best option.

    Why not look at ordering thin sheets to build up with a combination of carbon fiber and Kevlar for reinforcement? With the outer covering being a carbonfiber Kevlar to hold everything together. Personally if I was going to make body armor with it I'll use the above and add a high strength metal chainmail on the outer faces.

    I maybe wrong but you'll need to do some research and development. o_O
     
    Brutus57 likes this.
  3. CamoDeafie

    CamoDeafie Albany Well-Known Member

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    Theres AR500 basic armor for $135 available somewhere. $135 for a pair of plates. you only need the carrier for it, which isn't hard to come by.
     
    Ura-Ki, Dyjital and Joe13 like this.
  4. johnboy67

    johnboy67 williamsburg,va. New Member

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    Thanks for the input Page. I've looked at uhmwpe stand alone plates and they don't appear to be layered. Is there any place you can direct me that describes and breaks down the manufacturing process and the bond overlapping process?
    Thanks Camo, I'm looking to end up with something less than 8#'s per plate.
     
  5. CamoDeafie

    CamoDeafie Albany Well-Known Member

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    That is going to be a tall order.. what is your budget? I see one thats 7.3lbs, but thats still one plate, ceramic/kevlar combo. This is for level 4 rifle plates though.
    Physics says it's gonna be very difficult for material to be lighter, and still be able to absorb rifle energy impact. At least that is my understanding.
    A double layer system of soft armor in addition to hard plate, may be your best bet, but it is still going to be heavy.
     
  6. erudne

    erudne The Pie Matrix PPL Say Sleeping W/Your Rifle Is A bad Thing? Bronze Supporter

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    Level III = NATO ball Rifle Plate
    Level IV = Higher Level Rifle Plate
    Level IIIA = 357 mag w/jacketed soft point soft body armor
    Combining SBA w/plates is useless as it will not stop any modern CF rifle round and adds 9.5 pounds to your load, wearing it under a hard plate might disburse the BFT and if you can hump a 56.5 pound basic load might be worth the bother
     
  7. johnboy67

    johnboy67 williamsburg,va. New Member

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    Level III is all I'm interested in at this point. How do sellers get away with advertising stand alone UHMWPE plates that float? If that's true, for the size & displacement they have to be like 2#'s or less per plate...:confused: Would that be an accurate statement?
     
  8. CamoDeafie

    CamoDeafie Albany Well-Known Member

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    All in buoyancy. Unlike AR500, or most Ceramic armor, the plastic ones do float. Although, there is talk of having a thin Level III armor, backed or fronted with the foam from kick-boards as an impromptu floatable armor system. But that is a bit bulky lol.
     
  9. Vanillagerrilla

    Vanillagerrilla Vancouver, WA Well-Known Member

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    Ive been secretly looking for some body armor as well. Im thinking the Grey Ghost minimalist or even the Tactical Tailor carrier, with steel plates.
    I dont mind the weight. I use an air soft "vest" to hold two 10 pound weight plates when I work out now.
     
  10. 9by19

    9by19 New Member

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    There are (or were) a few youtube videos of a 1" thick homogenous slab of UHMWPE stopping 22LR and 45ACP. It won't stop a 9mm though. As someone mentioned, the ballistic type of UHMWPE is made of unidirectional sheets of material bonded together with each layer oriented 90 deg from each other.
     
  11. Vorpalis

    Vorpalis Portland, OR Active Member 2016 Volunteer

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    I've looked into it, and it's both a lot harder to do right than it seems, and costs a lot more than just buying commercially-made plates.

    Plus, as much as I like to tinker and make things, I generally choose not to make my own safety equipment. The team of engineers who designed the product both know more than I do (I recognize that I'm no JMB), and have more money to test and revise the design before finding what works.