JavaScript is disabled
Our website requires JavaScript to function properly. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser settings before proceeding.
Messages
5,452
Reactions
10,554
Which I've started doing with my Stihl equipment. You go to Siskun, Washington Tractor, wherever, it's hard to get away from those guys for under a hundred dollars these days. For $50, they will tell you what they think is wrong with it. But if it just flat-out won't run, get ready for $100 plus. Or be told it costs more to fix than buying a new one would. I think the last time I was at one of these places, they quoted me a shop labor rate of $75.

My saw, I don't remember the last time I used it. Several months ago, maybe. It's a Stihl MS290 "Farm Boss." It's been a very good machine and it was running when last put away. The other day, got it down and it wouldn't start. Previously, it's always started fairly easily. Pulling the starter rope with the choke switch in every configuration, I could tell it was pulling too easily. It didn't have the usual resistance. The spark impulse itself trying to ignite fuel but not quite ready to fire will cause this resistance. So I figured it was a no spark issue. With the spark plug out, I did a spark check, sure enough, no spark. My experience in this stuff is, it's rarely a spark plug that quits like this unless it's been broken somehow. Lots of functional spark plugs get changed just because.

So this left the ignition coil defective or a possible broken wire. It's hard to get to those wires but they are a lot less likely to fail than a coil. So I went to good old ebay and bought an ignition coil (which included a new plug also) for $10. The replacement coil was not a genuine Stihl. It was Gyppo, Bojack, cheap made in China, whatever you want to call it. But last night, I changed the coil. This morning, the chainsaw fired right up cold on the third yank of the rope, over-fueled and over-oiled and all. Within 30 seconds the blue smoke was gone and it was running quite smoothly and normally.

With the $10 bojack coil, even if I could've gotten it fixed at the Stihl dealer for a measly $100, you can buy 10 of the bojack coils for the cost of the one trip to the shop.

I learnt this lesson from home fixing one of my Stihl leaf blowers. The Stihl dealer told me it was not economically repairable. But being thriftly, I didn't want to throw the old one away. It had suspected carburetor issues. So I went on ebay, found a bojack carburetor for about $11. I took the old blower apart pretty fully without actually getting into the engine internals. It's just the way it's made. But after I changed the carburetor, the machine ran better than it ever did.

Hey, it's worth a $10 bill, isn't it? You can also find carbs for Briggs & Stratton and other small HP engines on ebay, fresh replacements from China, for about $10-$12, which is a lot less than the lawnmower shop gets for them. Bad carbs are the primary reason so many lawnmowers get thrown away. Especially in the NW where they sit around a lot. With bad gasoline containing ethanol in it. Or no fuel stabilizer.

So you don't like buying from China. Relax, they're eating our lunch anyway. You might as well get some benefit and save money in small equipment repairs.

Oh, one other thing. Saw chains. Check ebay before you pay $10 to $15 to get one sharpened.
 
Eh, I keep my Stihl's for 8-10 years, run em hard then dump em. The point they become unreliable it's a waste of time & money to fiddle with them...at least for me.
 
Huh.

Low resistance on the starter pull? I would have suspected compression issues instead of ignition, but whatever works for you.

I've had my Stihl MS 461 for about 7 years now. I don't "winterize" it or drain the fuel or tune it up or anything like that - I just keep the air filter clean, fuel and bar oil full. I cut a couple cords per year with it. It starts cold on the 3rd or 4th pull - full choke with compression release depressed until it fires a little, then half choke and it starts up. Same with the Kombi, only easier because it is a much smaller engine.

My only problem is finding a chain that will cut thru the hard maple logs I have and last any reasonable amount of time without needing to be sharpened again. Tried both Oregon and Stihl chains and yes, I try to keep it out of the dirt.
 
Especially in the NW where they sit around a lot. With bad gasoline containing ethanol in it. Or no fuel stabilizer.
Internet search "Puregas.org" lists fuel stations with ethanol free fuel by state. Many marine and farm supply outlets have E-0. A local Puyallup Wa Safeway grocery store has 92 octane E-0. My neighbor is a boat dealer and recommends "Stabil Marine formula" for fuel protection. My thought is It is worth the hassle to protect the rubber and aluminum in the fuel system. :)
 
My Sthil is a commercial grade 362, I know it's expensive but I run the Sthil premixed fuel and my saw just works. I heat with wood only so like to have 8 cords on hand at the start of winter. I run a non safety skip tooth chain. I file my own chains and do my own repairs and maintenance.
 
Low resistance on the starter pull? I would have suspected compression issues instead of ignition,

Low compression is usually a gradual, long-drawn out development. In the case of my saw, it normally presents some fair resistance on the pull rope. When it went bad, the engine turned over relatively easily. Way moreso than after it went bad. I guess what happens is when the coil is okay, when you first pull on the rope, the fuel is trying to ignite but won't quite. This is what causes some resistance to the piston when first pulling the rope. Or so it was explained to me.

fuel stations with ethanol free fuel

We've got a couple around here. One in Everett where I usually buy. The other in Smokey Point. Everett is a bit closer for me. Smoke and Gas on Broadway. Owned by a very personable Korean gentleman. One time I stopped in, the owner's nephew was tending the counter. I said something like, "Oh, today I missed the happiest Korean I know." The Nephew said, "Yeah, and craziest too!"

It was the Siskun store down the street that informed me that ethanol in gasoline had created tons of business for them by wrecking small engine carburetors. I suppose the manufacturers will get the seals, etc., made with the correct compounds some day. If they haven't already. In the meantime, I still use the non-ethanol fuel in all my small engine equipment.

I keep my Stihls for 8-10 years, run em hard then dump em. The point they become unreliable it's a waste of time & money to fiddle with them

This is probably the right course for some people. I don't use chain saws that much anymore but a commercial user is probably wasting time to nickel and dime an old one along. My life style has been to keep something functional for as long as possible. I've been retired for years and have all the time I need for fiddling.

I have a terrible inclination for becoming comfortable with things and systems. Then some wrenching episode will force change upon me, and it's only then that I discover a better way.
 
Internet search "Puregas.org" lists fuel stations with ethanol free fuel by state. Many marine and farm supply outlets have E-0. A local Puyallup Wa Safeway grocery store has 92 octane E-0. My neighbor is a boat dealer and recommends "Stabil Marine formula" for fuel protection. My thought is It is worth the hassle to protect the rubber and aluminum in the fuel system. :)

It's pure-gas.org <https://www.pure-gas.org/>. Don't mess with "Puregas.org" it's got redirects on it that look sketchy.

I run E0 in my carbureted quads and they love it.
 

Upcoming Events

Lakeview Spring Gun Show
Lakeview, OR
Albany Gun Show
Albany, OR
Falcon Gun Show - Classic Gun & Knife Show
Stanwood, WA
Wes Knodel Gun & Knife Show - Albany
Albany, OR

New Resource Reviews

New Classified Ads

Back Top