Hey! Somethings gone totally nuts here. I ordered THIS >>>>
https://www.northwestfirearms.com/threads/jc-higgins-model-30.360897/#post-2863151 On December 19th. I think it was $10.00-$12.00 W/free shipping!
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Yeah, but he cooks with Hornady One-Shot, so there's that....Parashooter over on Swissrifles.com has used olive oil forever.
YMMV.
In 30 years of shooting M1s and M1A (on the third barrel change) I have ripped the case head off of one piece of 308Ahh, thank you for this ^. Everything I've read, so far, has only indicated a "Possible" issue with ripping the rim off .308 brass in the BM59 because of the higher pressure developed over 7.62 NATO ammo. After reading I believe the gun to be plenty stout to withstand the extra pressure, though at some point there's a chance of battering/bending stuff using .308.
If you don't mind me asking, what is your personal technique for ensuring consistent neck tension?I shoot my 308 reloads in a Savage bolt and a NM M1A. 30 years of competition shooting with the M1A.
I always use LC brass and standard RCBS full length dies. My goal is the most accurate ammo possible.
Which has resulted in .5 inch groups at 200 yards (bolt gun). My charge weight for IMR 4064 is near the "starting point"
in the reloading manuals. Reduced powder charge when using LC brass as most reloading manuals recommend.
Uniform case neck tension is imperative for accuracy. Brass all the same year, trim length and number of reloads. I have
one batch (over 1K) of LC 89 match and another batch (1K) of LC 74 match. LC Match brass has no crimp. 20 years
ago I used the RCBS lube pad. Cleaning the lube off is a PIA. I used Dillon sizing lube for many years but the
home made lanolin works better and is cheaper. I have used Hornady one shot I have found it to work but more care
needed to insure all cases are completely lubed not so with home made type. Dimples on case shoulder indicates too
much lube. As others have said let it dry. About 10 minutes. After sizing or reloading I clean the lube off by misting with
water and rolling it in a towel. I said reloading because I have lubed the brass and run it through my 550 to compete loaded
ammo. Not so much with 308 but batches of 223 or 30/06 brass I will completely load it on a 550. Mist the loaded ammo
with water and roll in a towel. No issues doing it this way for Highpower competition with AR, M1 and M1A rifles.
Typically 88 rounds at a time for each match.
As for using motor oil for case lube?? I would not risk oil contamination of the primer.
View attachment 832108
In 30 years of shooting M1s and M1A (on the third barrel change) I have ripped the case head off of one piece of 308
with my M1A. The LC 89 brass had several reloads on it. I found the case head and the other half of the brass on the
ground. The separated case had been ejected from the rifle! I carry a broken shell extractor but have never had to use it.
@Mikej If your load is not hot and the brass is not worn out I think you need not worry about case head separation.
Same type, year and number of reloads. Verify by group testing. With 223 reloads I have found accuracyIf you don't mind me asking, what is your personal technique for ensuring consistent neck tension?
Good to know. Do you anneal? If so, after how many loads?Same type, year and number of reloads. Verify by group testing. With 223 reloads I have found accuracy
varies by type of brass. I have never ben able to reload LC 223 brass to shoot as well as Winchester brass.
Winchester brass about 1/2 the group size. I sometimes get crazy and separate by brass by weight.
But that is only reserved for the 600 yard line.
No annealing. I am not a bench rest or F class shooter. There accuracy is defiantly at a different level.Good to know. Do you anneal? If so, after how many loads?
Thanks!
Appreciate your info. I'm comparing notes to my brass prep. I'm always eager to learn what I don't know, or "think" I already know.No annealing. I am not a bench rest or F class shooter. There accuracy is defiantly at a different level.
Palma rifle competition shooters are mostly all 308 chambered rifles. Iron sights with aperture front and rear sights.
I know these guys anneal there cases. Most of these guys use exspensive Lapua brass. Picture here is the
Paul Bunyan International match Palma rifles closest to the camera. It was a 2 day match. The winner
dropped 0ne point from a perfect score in 2 days!!!!
View attachment 832219
I just bought a tin at my LGS for $10.
use graphite as a case neck lube material. I still have graphite powder for lubing inside of case necks supplied by RCBS and Hornady. For more info Google "graphite powder for reloading".
I stated dimensions were the same. Why would I think there were sperate die sets?
What I would like to find out is just how much more a NATO stamped brass weighs in comparison to .308 stamped brass? Seeing as all I have is 7.62X51 M80 ammo.
Stamp: | Grains: |
FC 05 (NATO) | 178.1 |
178.0 | |
178.2 | |
178.7 | |
178.4 | |
FC | 174.9 |
176.5 | |
176.3 | |
175.0 | |
174.7 | |
LC 05 (NATO) | 177.2 |
176.5 | |
177.5 | |
176.7 | |
176.3 | |
LC 15 (NATO) | 176.9 |
176.2 | |
178.5 | |
178.7 | |
177.8 | |
IK03 7.62x51 | 172.5 |
168.3 | |
170.1 | |
LC 72 MATCH | 182.1 |
181.1 | |
181.2 | |
PMP 308 WIN | 175.8 |
174.5 | |
HORNADY | 165.4 |
WW SUPER 308 WIN | 156.7 |
FRONTIER | 165.3 |
WRA 68 (NATO) | 180.2 |
ABT 7.62 | 155.2 |
AFF 91 | 181.9 |
IMI 11 (NATO) | 180.0 |
I started grabbing 5 of each "like" brass. Then after sorting until my eyes crossed I just started grabbing whatever was "different" than I already weighed. Here's what I got....
Stamp: Grains: FC 05 (NATO) 178.1 178.0 178.2 178.7 178.4FC 174.9 176.5 176.3 175.0 174.7LC 05 (NATO) 177.2 176.5 177.5 176.7 176.3LC 15 (NATO) 176.9 176.2 178.5 178.7 177.8IK03 7.62x51 172.5 168.3 170.1LC 72 MATCH 182.1 181.1 181.2PMP 308 WIN 175.8 174.5HORNADY 165.4WW SUPER 308 WIN 156.7FRONTIER 165.3WRA 68 (NATO) 180.2ABT 7.62 155.2AFF 91 181.9IMI 11 (NATO) 180.0
That's above and beyond the call of duty right there. Seeing as haven't had a chance to weigh both because I don't have empty cases, yet, of the 7.62 X 51. And I don't have any cases at all of .308. I'm going to assume the FC above is stamped .308? It looks like there's about 20 grains difference between .308 stamped and 7.62 stamped. Some of those others aren't as close as the LC. And LC match looks more uniform than all of them.
OK, things are getting closer to be loaded. But first, I have a couple more questions....
1. From what I am finding, LC brass is a NATO round and has a crimped primer. It is considered "thicker than normal" brass and is generally loaded roughly ~10% lower than published data because the reduced case capacity. There are posts on the forums that suggest to swag/remove the primer crimp prior to reloading it. Should I swag/remove the primer crimp?
2. I have some FC brass that is also NATO. It has the circle with the '+' in the center. It also appears to have a crimped primer pocket. If this is also NATO brass does this mean that it is "thicker than normal" brass and should be loaded like the LC brass, starting roughly 10% low, because it too has a reduced case capacity? Should I swag/remove the primer crimp?
3. I also have what appears to be non-NATO FC brass because it does not have the '+' inside the circle on the rim, nor does it have a crimped primer pocket. Does this indicate that it is "normal" brass and should be loaded to published data, because it should not have a reduced case capacity?
Thanks again for all your help!
I'm not really worried. This BM59 is a product of James River Armory. Their recommendation is to use 7.62 NATO. Personally I like the idea of using the recommended lower pressure ammo for going easier on the gun. I also like the idea of heavier, more durable(?) 7.62 brass.