First AR15 Build, Parts needed to install barrel/free floating hand guard?

[h4344]

Hello.

So i am assembling my first AR15. Everything seems to be going well so far. I have a barrel in mind and a free floating hand guard which comes with a proprietary nut to attach the barrel to the upper receiver.

Now i'm ready to order these items but i need to make sure i have everything i need. Do i need a delta ring, weld spring, and snap ring regardless of the type of hand guard? If so, do i just need those 3 items along with the proprietary nut included with the hand guard to install the barrel/hand guard?

Quick side question to avoid another thread, this being my first build would it be recommended i take it to a gunsmith before hand to ensure it wont blow up in my hand or something on first firing?

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[slimmer13]

The enclosed barrel nut replaces the delta ring assembly.

If you watch a couple YouTube vids and have an ounce of mechanical inclination, the risk is minimal for messing up. Pretty straight forward stuff.

 

[Member 34319]

Hello.

So i am assembling my first AR15. Everything seems to be going well so far. I have a barrel in mind and a free floating hand guard which comes with a proprietary nut to attach the barrel to the upper receiver.

Now i'm ready to order these items but i need to make sure i have everything i need. Do i need a delta ring, weld spring, and snap ring regardless of the type of hand guard? If so, do i just need those 3 items along with the proprietary nut included with the hand guard to install the barrel/hand guard?

Quick side question to avoid another thread, this being my first build would it be recommended i take it to a gunsmith before hand to ensure it wont blow up in my hand or something on first firing?

Your barrel will attach to the receiver using the included barrel nut. You do not need to buy another standard style barrel nut nor the rest of the components used to install a M4 style hand guard.

For the most part home brews using various companies parts are pretty safe. I am not a lawyer, and someone will likely chime in stating you should use a smith. I feel as long as you buy reputable components these days, your gun should run.

If your really feeling squirrely and unsafe, get a no go gauge for another 30 dollars. That is about the one thing that could cause issues in my opinion with a home brew. Most issues are gas related to gas ports being non standard throughout the manufacturer realm.

Forster Headspace No-Go Ga 223 Remington

 

[h4344]

Thanks for the quick responses! Yeah i have been sure to follow the youtube videos i watched as closely as possible and so far the operation seems flawless. Just call me overly paranoid

 

[mjbskwim]

Go to you tube or AR15 dot com and watch some vids.
This ain't rocket surgery.
Think Forrest Gump

 

[2A2Dend]

Stick to Youtube videos. Spare yourself the arrogance.

 

[Velzey]

Allot of the free float forearms use a nut that uses a big spanner nut. You will need this wrench to tighten it. Don't use a punch and hammer!

 

[jbett98]

You will need to torque the free float barrel nut.
I use a little lithium grease on the receiver threads and torque the new barrel nut three times to 30 foot lbs.
Then I back the nut off and set the torque wrench to 35 ft lbs and then line up the gas tube hole after that spec is reached.
I'm in the Portland area and if you need any help or specialty tools, I have everything needed.

 

[clearconscience]

Youtube is a lifesaver.

I've built a few AR15s and an AR10 off watching youtube videos.
I've never used go no go gauges or anything.

If your nervous about it take it to Curt's or ask them if they will look at it.

It's pretty idiot proof. Even if you did something wrong, usually you will have a FTF or cycling issues.
Just make sure your bcg is completely seats and pull the trigger.

Or secure it to a shooter's sled and hook up a string.

Put in a mag with 4-5 rds and run the charging handle to check cycling.

Only issue ai ever had was a weak hammer spring causing light primer strikes. Changed it back to the stock spring and worked perfectly.

 

[bolus]

Allot of the free float forearms use a nut that uses a big spanner nut. You will need this wrench to tighten it. Don't use a punch and hammer!

View attachment 308990

Dont use a hammer? I thought you just hit it until the parts line up?

I got a free float handguard for my bump saw. I was installing the barrel nut and the directions said "use moly lube on the threads (included)"

the only tube in the box is a small blue tube. huh? so I squirt a bunch of this blue looking stuff all over the threads. double huh? that looks like blue locktite. Yep, was blue locktite, they forgot to include the lube. luckily that cleans up easily.

 

[808hondacrguy]

Depending how long your handguard is, you might need a low profile gas block also.

 

[PiratePast40]

We all have our personal tolerances for doing things "by the book". I think that a barrel vice block is a good idea, but others aren't as anal about it.

 

[PiratePast40]

Stick to Youtube videos. Spare yourself the arrogance.

LOL - ARF is definitely not for the sensitive types.

Brownells also has some good assembly videos. How to Build An AR-15 Video | World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

 

[2A2Dend]

But, you mean to say?

 

[2A2Dend]

@bolus
Anti-Seize compound works well.

 

[sed]

If you're going to build an AR "by the book" you should use Aeroshell 33ms grease when installing your barrel to the upper receiver.

A lot of people/places say not to use anti-seize, especially if it has graphite in it. Any grease with graphite should be avoided if possible. It is said that graphite reacts poorly with aluminum and can cause corrosion (especially if used on two dissimilar metals ie-steel barrel nut and aluminum upper receiver).
So if considering anti-seize, you might want to investigate a little more if these things concern you.

You can buy large tubes (way too much for gunsmithing needs) of Aeroshell 33ms or smaller tins of it online.
Best place I found for the Aeroshell 33ms was Umbrella Corp. It was just over $5 shipped for a .5oz jar (plenty to assemble quite a few AR's):
AeroShell 33MS Grease - Materiel - Umbrella Corporation

If you don't go specifically with the Aeroshell 33ms, again avoid anything with graphite. Another good option mentioned by many is to use a molybdenum grease w/out graphite.

Bottom line - AeroShell 33ms or moly grease (no graphite) and you should be good to go.

 

[Garg]

Classic Firearms has the 33ms for 3.99.
One other thing to consider, is the barrel nut material. If it is steel, then the 30 to 80 pounds of torque is correct. If it is aluminum, than it is much less. Don't ask me how I found this out