Firearms Care - Desiccant - Lubrication - What is the best for rust prevention?

[PolishedBrass]

I would like to know what others are using to keep their beauties in perfect rust free shape.

I am looking for the best in a can or bottle that lubricates, has metal adhesion and great rust prevention.

Plus I want to hear what kind of desiccant people have found to be practical and a good deal.

So ... I will start out ...
I have several safes in an area that is slightly damp and the safes aren't air tight.
So I use desiccants in each firearm case and three types of desiccants in each safe.
Plus I use a room humidifier at times if the humidity gets over 60%.

I also use a blend of a superlube with metal adhesion properties, grease pot grease, BullFrog Rust Blocker. (With VCI)

And I have the anti-rust bags ... which I haven't gotten around to using yet.

So ... It works but isn't perfect.

Is there a great one formula lube that does protect from rust?

Read More

 

[halmbarte]

Actually, Breakfree CLP protects against rust very nicely. It's creepy so it gets in between parts too.

And it doesn't have to be cleaned off before use, unlike greases and wax.

Personally, I'm using Aeroshell 18. It's also very creepy and has good anti rust action I use it after cleaning corrosive ammo fouling and don't have any rust problems, even after having field stripped and cleaning in the rain. It's cheap too.

H

 

[PolishedBrass]

Very nice ...

That reminds me I have a couple cans of Boeshield T-9 sitting around that might be just like Aeroshell ... Boeshield T-9, 12 oz. Aerosol

 

[PolishedBrass]

Anyone here use Eezox or Corossion X ?

 

[NuthinFancy]

I use Flitz Gun Wax after I lubricate.

 

[Swedish K]

For an inexpensive desiccant you can go to your local craft store and buy silica gel crystals in the floral area - its used for drying flowers. A 1.5 lb container of the stuff should run about $8 to $12 much cheaper than buying the "purpose made" silica desiccant packs. for the safe just take an old butter tub or similar container, put holes in the lid and tape a coffee filter over the holes so it won't spill out. For in the gun cases you just put a 1/4 cup or so in a coffee filter (cone filters are easiest) fold the top over a few times and use a single wrap of masking tape so it won't open up.

If you are going to try to re use your silica gel crystals you can dry them in an oven - dont' recall the max temperature but if I recall you can spread the crystals on a baking sheet and heat them at the lowest temperature setting (maybe 140 deg) for about 4 hours. Immediately after heating you need to put it into an airtight container and allow it to slowly cool to room temp. (maybe use an airtight ammo can or large mason jars) I would expect letting it set overnight would do the trick. Then repackage in the coffee filters and you are good to go. Not sure how much money savings you get from this as I haven't figured the cost of running the oven for 4 hours. I figure my time is worth more than the $10 to buy new silica gel crystals but if you live in a remote place and don't have a local supplier it might be worth it.

Also - you mentioned that your safes aren't air tight - you may want to seal the bolt holes and seams other than the door with a caulking or even duct tape from the inside and you can use standard stick on foam door / window sealer available at your local hardware store to help seal the door. It might not be perfect but it will greatly reduce the airflow and you won't have to replace your desiccant as often.

Someone recently posted that they have started using liquid wrench chain lube which is a penetrating molly lube that will mostly dry after spraying on. Much less expensive than most of the purpose built gun lubes and it both lubes and protects. I haven't gotten around to trying it but it sounds promising and if it holds up to motorcycle chains and keeps them both lubricated and protected from rust it should do fine in a firearms application.

 

[Riot]

I used to have a problem with rust as well. Did a couple things differently and haven't seen a rust issue yet.

The first thing I did was drag my safe out of the closet and put it in an open room. Then I put a dedicated de-humidifier on top of it that is always on. Then I put Break Free or Rem Oil (the aerosol types) on all my guns before placing them in the safe. I found out that guns can get "sympathetic rusting" from being near other metal objects that are rusting (i.e. your magazines). I also found out that closets hold in humidity like crazy, especially if there are a lot of clothes and blankets in it.

Hope this helps!

 

[Artpro]

For long term storage, more than 30 days, clean/dry off all accesible areas of metal including rmoving the stock, then spray the trigger and action areas with brake cleaner trat any visible rust with Kroil, then spray all metal surfaces with EZOX. That product is a rust preventative and not a lubricant.


TE=Riot;479321]I used to have a problem with rust as well. Did a couple things differently and haven't seen a rust issue yet.

The first thing I did was drag my safe out of the closet and put it in an open room. Then I put a dedicated de-humidifier on top of it that is always on. Then I put Break Free or Rem Oil (the aerosol types) on all my guns before placing them in the safe. I found out that guns can get "sympathetic rusting" from being near other metal objects that are rusting (i.e. your magazines). I also found out that closets hold in humidity like crazy, especially if there are a lot of clothes and blankets in it.

Hope this helps![/QUOTE]

 

[PolishedBrass]

For an inexpensive desiccant you can go to your local craft store and buy silica gel crystals in the floral area - its used for drying flowers. A 1.5 lb container of the stuff should run about $8 to $12 much cheaper than buying the "purpose made" silica desiccant packs. for the safe just take an old butter tub or similar container, put holes in the lid and tape a coffee filter over the holes so it won't spill out. For in the gun cases you just put a 1/4 cup or so in a coffee filter (cone filters are easiest) fold the top over a few times and use a single wrap of masking tape so it won't open up.

If you are going to try to re use your silica gel crystals you can dry them in an oven - dont' recall the max temperature but if I recall you can spread the crystals on a baking sheet and heat them at the lowest temperature setting (maybe 140 deg) for about 4 hours. Immediately after heating you need to put it into an airtight container and allow it to slowly cool to room temp. (maybe use an airtight ammo can or large mason jars) I would expect letting it set overnight would do the trick. Then repackage in the coffee filters and you are good to go. Not sure how much money savings you get from this as I haven't figured the cost of running the oven for 4 hours. I figure my time is worth more than the $10 to buy new silica gel crystals but if you live in a remote place and don't have a local supplier it might be worth it.

Also - you mentioned that your safes aren't air tight - you may want to seal the bolt holes and seams other than the door with a caulking or even duct tape from the inside and you can use standard stick on foam door / window sealer available at your local hardware store to help seal the door. It might not be perfect but it will greatly reduce the airflow and you won't have to replace your desiccant as often.

Someone recently posted that they have started using liquid wrench chain lube which is a penetrating molly lube that will mostly dry after spraying on. Much less expensive than most of the purpose built gun lubes and it both lubes and protects. I haven't gotten around to trying it but it sounds promising and if it holds up to motorcycle chains and keeps them both lubricated and protected from rust it should do fine in a firearms application.

Excellent advice, thanks man !!!

 

[biggie24420]

I have been pretty happy with BALLISTOL myself.

 

[FMJ 911]

What's a good lubricant for Old Military Rifles? Does grease work, or should I use something else?

 

[FMJ 911]

Good! I can use that for my Porsche, and my guns!

 

[halmbarte]

Unless you gun has oil pump fed friction bearings and is run at constant RPMs and temps, I'd disagree.

Motor oil is great for motors. But guns operate under different conditions and don't have catalytic converters to worry about. You want a gun oil to be creepy, so it seeps in between parts, on a engine that ability would lead to oil leaks. Guns operate intermittently, under high loads, which isn't how IC engines work.

H

 

[JORHAMMER]

www.froglube.com

 

[slowstang11]

You can get your guns Cerakoted, never have to worry about rust again.

 

[Riot]

Unless you gun has oil pump fed friction bearings and is run at constant RPMs and temps, I'd disagree.

Motor oil is great for motors. But guns operate under different conditions and don't have catalytic converters to worry about. You want a gun oil to be creepy, so it seeps in between parts, on a engine that ability would lead to oil leaks. Guns operate intermittently, under high loads, which isn't how IC engines work.

H

Whatever you tell yourself to buy 10X the price!

 

[FMJ 911]

Well, if nothing else was available, Motor oil would have to work.

 

[Riot]

Well, if nothing else was available, Motor oil would have to work.

Have any of you guys even looked into Royal Purple?

Synerlec, Royal Purple's proprietary, additive lubricant technology, is the cornerstone of RP's entire product line. It creates an ionic bond that adheres to metal parts to provide continuous protection even at start-up and strengthens the oil to provide unparalleled performance and protection.
Royal Purple's high film strength prevents contact between metal parts reducing friction and heat thereby transferring more power to the drive wheels while maximizing the lubricant service life. As well, Synerlec amplifies the already-exceptional oxidation resistance of the synthetic base oils.
Royal Purple remains on the metal surface long after ordinary lubricants would have been squeezed out by pressure and heat. It actually improves mating surfaces by responding to increased pressure with increased viscosity until the metal peaks (asperities) undergo deformation and flow into the low spots. Over time, the metal surface becomes extremely smooth and can even develop a mirror-like surface.

It's a full synthetic motor oil. I used to be very skeptical as well; until I tried it myself. I haven't even been through a full bottle of this stuff in the years I years I've used it. All you need is a drop on a q-tip on the metal parts. Best oil by far and the cheapest by the ounce!

 

[FMJ 911]

Have any of you guys even looked into Royal Purple?



It's a full synthetic motor oil. I used to be very skeptical as well; until I tried it myself. I haven't even been through a full bottle of this stuff in the years I years I've used it. All you need is a drop on a q-tip on the metal parts. Best oil by far and the cheapest by the ounce!

See? so I can use this in my '68 Porsche, and on my guns!

 

[skywag]

Good! I can use that for my Porsche, and my guns!

Porsche factory fill is Mobil 1.