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I used to clean solely with Breakfree CLP and Hoppe's when needed.

In the last couple years, I've switched to Butch's products. After shooting, I soak a patch in Boreshine and then alternate wet and dry patches until they're coming out clean. Then another dry or two and finally a patch soaked in Butch's Gun Oil. I like the smell of their oil :)

For the breech and other metal parts, I usually use patches soaked in CLP to wipe/scrub them clean. Then a film of Butch's Gun oil.

Sometimes when I shoot corrosive ammo in my old milsurps I'll run some Windex down the barrel at the range before leaving, then clean when I get home. De-cosmolining milsurps is a whole other discussion :)

How do you clean your gun?
 
I used to clean solely with Breakfree CLP and Hoppe's when needed.

In the last couple years, I've switched to Butch's products. After shooting, I soak a patch in Boreshine and then alternate wet and dry patches until they're coming out clean. Then another dry or two and finally a patch soaked in Butch's Gun Oil. I like the smell of their oil :)

For the breech and other metal parts, I usually use patches soaked in CLP to wipe/scrub them clean. Then a film of Butch's Gun oil.

Sometimes when I shoot corrosive ammo in my old milsurps I'll run some Windex down the barrel at the range before leaving, then clean when I get home. De-cosmolining milsurps is a whole other discussion :)

How do you clean your gun?

Brush with Hoppes #9 down the barrel 5 or so times. Let sit for 10 or 15 minutes while taking down the guns or other chores. Then patches or patches/jag til clean with a patch or two with solvent if necessary. Clean all other parts with brush and solvent. Clean *all* solvent off thoroughly. Lubricate barrel and moving parts with Mobil 1 20w-50. Wipe off all excess.
 
I used to work with a custom barrel maker specializing in Contender/Encore barrels...I would get 'samples' to do load development, write reviews, etc...This is the break-in cleaning regime I have been using since those days
This is Long.......

[h=3]What Is The Proper Way To Break-in My Barrel?[/h]This is a question we hear a lot, not just on new barrels but, barrels in general.
Ask 100 different people get 100 different answers. AND I think, there must be at least 100 different types of gun cleaners/solvents on the market plus, numerous home brewed concoctions. All are gaurenteed to do a super duty job removing copper, powder, plastic, dirt and general all around grunge from your favorite rifle or handgun. Which products and methods are the best opens up a whole new argument. One I refuse to get into.

And the debate continues and will as long as people clean their barrels.
"What is the best cleaner, solvent on the market?"
Since 1997 our answer at K.T.S. is M-Pro7 Period.
Don't look for other cleaners here as M-Pro7 is our exclusive choice and you won't convince us that there is a better product on the market.

<broken link removed>
What ever you use, when you receive your new Barrel/Gun take the time to give it a good cleaning before heading out to the range. I know, you just got a new gun and are itching to go shoot it. Plus the barrel LOOKS clean but, please, wait a little longer and give it a good cleaning anyway.

Whenever I get a new Bbl. my cleaning consists of a couple shots of MPRO-7 and 4 passes with a good nylon or bronze brush, one in, one out, one in, one out, one more good shot of MP-7 and then, let sit for 5-10 min. Then I patch a jag for a good tight fit in the bore and run it thru. I can usually take the same patch, turn it over and run it thru again. Either way I run a couple patches thru it. I then take a clean patch with 2-3 small drops of M-PRO7 CLP on it and run it thru the bore on my jag.
With a used Bbl. I'll put a couple shots of MPRO-7 down the tube and give it 1/2 doz. passes with a bronze brush. I then give it a couple more good shots of MP-7 and let it sit for awhile, 45min to an hour usually. Then I'll give it a couple more passes with the brush and patch out with a good tight fitting rag on my jag.
Then I do the whole process all over again. If the patches still look pretty grungy after the second process I then fill the Bbl. with MP-7 and leave it to soak over night.
Next morning a couple passes with a brush and patch out.

Now I'm ready to go to the range.
Working with a new barrel I take a couple three guns with me so I have something to do. Setting up, I fire 5 rnds. thru the new tube and stop, pull out the cleaning gear and give it a scrub. Same as I did when I 1st received it.
A couple shots of MPRO-7 and 4 passes with a good nylon or bronze brush, one in, one out, one in, one out, one more good shot of MP-7 and then, let sit for 5-10 min. (The reason for a couple extra guns) Then I patch a jag for a good tight fit in the bore and run it thru, usually 3 will do it. I do this for the 1st 50 rnds. Every 15 rnds or so I will put a couple small drops of MP-7 CLP on a patch and run thru the bore after it has been cleaned.

And thats it. After this initial break-in I clean the Bbl. after each range session or, when it starts to lose accuracy. MPRO-7 works into the pores of the metal and conditions it for greater ease in subsequent clearing's. I now have 7 Contender Barrels that have never been cleaned with anything but MPRO-7 while they have been in my possession. 4 were received brand new and 3 were purchased used. I treated them all in the above described manner. I can take any one of them out and shoot 5-100 rnds thru them with out cleaning in between. Only one loses enough accuracy to make a difference and, once I get back home, cleaning time takes about 15-20 minutes regardless of the number of rounds shot or, whether the bullets were lead or copper jacketed.
One thing to note. After initial break-in, when I return to the range I will run 1 patch thru the bore before I begin shooting. As stated, MPRO-7 works into the pores of the Bbl. metal, (one reason why I think it works better with a warm Bbl.) If the Bbl. is left to sit for a period of time, impurities in the metal will actually leach out. On a couple of my Bbls. I have noticed a grayish tint on the patch after the bbl. had set awhile. Over a period of time, even this will go away but, its still a good idea to run a patch thru the bore anyway.

The only other thing I do with my Bbls./guns after shooting is to wipe them down with a light coating of oil or one of those treated clothes.
What you do with your Bbls./guns is your business. I know guys that never clean their guns and they look it, all rusty and dusty. I'm almost ashamed to take them out to the range. I know others that over clean their guns, putting enough oil on and in them to do my entire collection twice! And, some are anal enough to clean the Bbl. after every shot. To each their own.
Personally, I like to shoot, the less time I spend cleaning the better. Since I started the above cleaning regime on my Bbls/guns my cleaning time has been cut over half, my guns are as clean or cleaner than anybody else's I've had opportunity to check out and more accurate than most.
Now I'll be the first to admit that I don't get around to cleaning my Bbls./guns immediately after I get home. However, if I am going to put off the cleaning I do wipe them down with a little oil or silicone cloth to remove those nasty finger prints and, they do get a cleaning before returning to the range.
2-1-05 NOTE, We have had quite a few questions on what equipment we prefer to use. I personally like the Pro-Shot line of cleaning rods and use J.Dewey or Pro-Shot brand Brushes, Jags and Mops. Both make Quality Patches and I use them for the 17 calibers. However, for 22 cal and up I use patches I cut from flannel sheets. These have worked great for me and I see no reason to change. When I run out of these I have 2 more sets to go, there are a lot of patches in a set of queen size sheets.
What ever equipment you decide to use for your cleaning regime, use it right. Some of this cleaning equipment is expensive and in my opinion deserves just as much care as the gun its self. I always wipe down my rods and give my brushes a shot or two of 'Blast Out' to clean them.
Remember...Your shoving a steel rod down an expensive piece of equipment, Go slow and don't force things.
2-1-09 NOTE,
OK,OK, This ol' dog learned something new today
Went to my favorite sporting goods/gun store today and it was wiped out!!
I voted but I did not vote for this!!!
Holy Moly! The gun industry is booming right now! I can hear them all laughing to the bank right now.

Anyway, I was looking at some cleaning supplies and didn't find much on the shelves
I did discover though that Hoppe's has a product that their calling the ELITE line of gun cleaners
I checked it out and discovered that this stuff is made by 'Pantheon Chemical'
This is the same outfit that makes MPro7
Is it as good? Well, we bought a bottle of it and are in the process of testing it now
So Far, So Good. Using our above regime, we are currently working on an Encore 300 Win Mag Barrel and all indications lead us to believe this is our MPro-7 in a different bottle
If not? Well it is working just as good
 
I found that almost any quality solvent works fine so pick what you think works. I pass 3-4 really wet patches of Butches Bore Shine through my barrels until most the carbon is gone. Then I go after it with a bronze brush soaked with more Butches...usually one complete pass for each bullet I shot. I use good bore guides to keep solvent out of the action - either Lucas or Sinclairs. It is not uncommon for my barrels to drip a little solvent during this step.. Then a dry patch or two to see how much copper I dissolved with the Butches. Even with a bronze brush I don't normally get much green/blue color but it does vary with the quality of barrel. My Savage shows a lot more than any others. If it looks pretty good, I do a few patches soaked with Kroil to flush out the Butches Bore Shine. I do one or two more dry patches, then a patch with a couple drops of gun oil on it. If the gun oil patch comes out clean, I do one more dry patch and I'm done. If the oil patch comes out dirty, I may start over again, or a modified version of the pervious technique. Depends on how dirty the oil patch was.

I don't think I clean down to the metal as I think you can get a barrel too clean and then have to erode some bullet into the barrel to get it to shoot well again. I have found that a really good cleaning produces the best groups afterwards. Some rifles like to have their barrel fouled after a good cleaning and some don't. All depends on the barrel.

Note - if you are not using a bronze brush, you are not getting all the carbon or copper. I tested bronze brushes against nylon brushes, and nylon doesn't work nearly as well. If you use neither, you are leaving a lot of crap behind.

Note #2 - Are you aware of the carbon ring that develops just in front of the throat? This can cause serious accuracy issues. Every 200 rounds or so you will start to feel the ring develop and you can only feel it if you use a tight fitting bronze brush. The brush will move smoothly as you draw it back through the barrel, and then you will feel a hitch right before the throat. The only way I found to get rid of the carbon ring is with an abrasive cleaner such as JB's. Remove that carbon ring and accuracy will return.
 
About a once a year complete tear down, clean and reassemble. In between maybe a blast with air, a shot of Rem Oil, a wipe down and an occasional peep down the barrel with a brush out if necessary. I go shooting a lot and always have a few guns with me and Central Oregon is a dusty environment in the summer. In this country if you are too paranoid about cleanliness you will never go shooting.
 
So, the very best and actually researched article on bore cleaning, was one that used a bore-scope to actually see what was and was not being cleaned. It's from 2006, but what should be taken from the article, is the type of cleaners and methods used, more so than the specifically named products (ie. non petroleum based stuff)

We don't all have a borescope, but the article proves a few things, some of which i've found to be true as well. My current selection consist of MPro7 cleaner, Froglube for lube and protection and MPro7 Copper if needed.
(Ignore the boretech link, it was from the now defunct precision shooting mag, but they mentioned boretech)

http://www.boretech.com/docs/articles/precisionshooting_jan.pdf
 
First off, I do not try to clean a bore in one day. Let the chemicals do the work! No brushes! But I use 2 sizes of patches, real tight and not so tight. This system facilitates cleaning of more than one bore at a time, as I only have one cradle. While the chemicals are working in one bore, I can be scrubbing a second or third bore. The not so tight patch is for applying chemicals and scrubbing. The tight patch is for removal of chemicals and fouling. Works for me!
 
I allways do a full cleaning the same day no matter how few rounds fired or what gun. I start with a solvent or CLP soaked patch down the bore the same with a tooth brush over the action and all moving parts the let sit for 15-20 min. Wipe clean with shop towls and Q-tips the lubricate as needed. The products to use very per user. I have tried many things and now use frog lube and solvent.
 
Cleaning my 1911's
Day 1) Disassemble and spray with Foaming CLP
Day 2) Brush frame and individual parts and spray with brake cleaner to get all residue off. I also run a bronze barrel brush through my barrel about 15 times. Again, the brake cleaner to rinse the crap out. I then run an oiled patch through the barrel and if it doesn't come out clean I repeat the CLP and brush again. Then using compressed air I make sure all the brake cleaner is dry prior to applying a light film of CLP.
Reassemble with CLP except I put a small bead of Gun Butter inside the link, on the surfaces where the slide stop goes through the link, where the slide meets the frame and around the barrel where it meets the bushing. I also use the gun butter on the sear & disconnect as well as the hammer bushing. Once reassembled I run a bead around the top of the exposed barrel. My Colt GC Trophy gets 1000 rounds a month and it 2 years old... Still looks like new and runs even better than new!
My friends tell me I'm anal about cleaning and I over-clean my guns. It takes a little longer but mine are spotless.
(when I get really carried away I pull out the ultrasonic cleaner and toss the pieces in AFTER I go through the normal cleaning process but prior to lubing) Can you say "white glove?"
 
Go to the range, shoot mega amounts of ammo, get home, unload guns that were shot & put them in the dishwasher for a 6 min quick clean. Take out, place on rack in dryer for 15 mins. Remove, spray down with WD40, light wipe down and back in the safe...
 
This is to classic. Your friends are correct, listen to them. It is possible to wear out a gun with over cleaning.
Btw. . Are you related to my old drill sgt.?

Naaa I disagree. The only way it will wear faster is without proper lubrication. My guns never have hickups, my friends gun do until I show them how to clean them and then they work great again!
 
Naaa I disagree. The only way it will wear faster is without proper lubrication. My guns never have hickups, my friends gun do until I show them how to clean them and then they work great again!

Well put! How well you maintain anything will determine how long it lasts. I get razzed all the time but my guns never fail. Also my cars dont break down. :s0155:
 

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