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Well, for one thing, RCBS uses two different types. The older type is just a straight pin. The newer type has a kind of head on it. And there is a large .070 diameter and a small .060. IIRC.

I've used RCBS pins in Hornady dies before until I got the proper one.

When I was using a Dillion 550 press, I never broke a Dillon pin. Ditto the one set of Lyman dies I used to have. Lee are completely different but I don't think I've ever broken one of those either.

If you're completely out of replacements, try a cut-down finishing nail of appropriate size and see of that works. If you have the newer type RCBS with the head, leave the head on the nail. It should be proud enough to fit. Keep it a little shorter than a "real" pin because the metal is softer.
 
As for RCBS......
The large is different from the small and then there are headed pins to add to the confusion.

Brand for brand.....I have no clue what the situation is.

Aloha, Mark
 
I have only processed about 3000 rounds. Mostly all pistol. I am currently processing some 308 brass. I have broken 4 decapping pins, the kind with the heads. I cannot figure out why I can run maybe 10-15 shells then SNAP! A broken pin!!!

I have checked to ensure everything is tight, and that the pin is straight. But it continued to happen to 4 of my pins. I am on my last one and needing to get more. In searching for "decapping pins" is when i noticed what seemed to be significant price differences.

Does some 308 manufacturers use berdan primers and primer pockets?
 
Is any of it military brass with crimped primers? I have never broken a pin on commercial brass, but military is another story.
I don't know of any US brands using berdan primers, but I have seen foreign made NATO ammo with them.
 
I have reason to believe that it is military. The shell that caused the most headache is stamped "MF" (if i remember correctly from processing brass last night). A couple stamped "AFF" (or AAF?) broke a couple too.

The "Nosler", "Match", etc all ran smooth as butter.
 
Flash hole irregularities on this brass is probably the issue.
I can't think of a single rifle case that has broken a pin, i've had pistol cases do it when there was a rock or some other debris in there that didn't come out.

I have a range of RCBS and Lee pins
 
Does some 308 manufacturers use berdan primers and primer pockets?

US Manufacturers are all Boxer primed. A good portion of foreign made 7.62 is Berdan. If you see a brand you don't recognize, it's best to just get a flashlight and look inside. If you break a pin, do look inside that case. It might be Berdan primed or there might be an obstruction. I recall once finding a small rock in one of my cases. Can't imagine how it got in there but I'm pretty sure it would have broke my pin.

Finally, you might have just hit a bad batch of pins. I've been reloading for almost 40 years. Never had any issues until about 5 years ago. I was hitting periods where pins were snapping constantly and I couldn't figure out why. I went thru my 7.62 cases and they were all Boxer. I replaced the stem in my dies and pins were still breaking. I reordered pins and haven't broken one since.
 
After decades of frustration with broken pins or bent decapping rods from crimped primers, I added an extra step to brass prep. Bought a Lyman Universal Decapping Die. Really hated to add that step. Since adding it have done thousands of handgun, large rifle and and .223 brass without a problem. I use it and then always clean the brass with steel pins and liquid. When I full length size brass I don't have a pin in the decapping rod. Only recent problem is I had a stuck case and the decapping rod was too far down in the case. Thus, when I drilled the base of the brass the drill touched the neck expander. The rod proper is fine. Need to see if I can buy the .223 neck expander.
 
I have reason to believe that it is military. The shell that caused the most headache is stamped "MF" (if i remember correctly from processing brass last night). A couple stamped "AFF" (or AAF?) broke a couple too.

The "Nosler", "Match", etc all ran smooth as butter.
If it is crimped you will need to ream the pocket before you can re-prime them.
 
I invested in RCBS Primer Pocket Swager. Did by hand for years and found I wasn't always complete in removal of material. Pocket Swager seems accurate. One more needed tool and step. Haven't bought factory ammo in years.
 
I've run across quite a few of the berdan primed .308 cases when I've processed them for a friend (I don't own/reload .308). They now live in the junk brass box under my reloading bench. I keep a light on my bench specifically for looking in .308/30-06 cases for berdan primers to save my resizer decapping pins, which then prodded me to just get a pair of universal decapping dies. I can loan you the dies until your replacement pins arrive.
 
I started loading over fifty years ago and never broken a decapping pin.
Loooooong ago, I chipped the edge of one on a small rock that had wedged itself in. Since then, I have never decapped without looking into each and every case, a dental pick close by.
Since I also examine them for fatigue and other issues, it is no big deal with a properly adjusted lamp.. a behavior I strongly recommend.
 
I've run across quite a few of the berdan primed .308 cases when I've processed them for a friend (I don't own/reload .308). They now live in the junk brass box under my reloading bench. I keep a light on my bench specifically for looking in .308/30-06 cases for berdan primers to save my resizer decapping pins, which then prodded me to just get a pair of universal decapping dies. I can loan you the dies until your replacement pins arrive.


I just may have to try and make you a visit real soon! Thanks!
 
I use a Lee universal decapping die and pins from Squirrel Daddy for removing primers, recently did 2200 pieces of Lake City 5.56.
The stock Lee pin bent after some use, I have never had a problem with the stronger steel in the pins from Squirrel Daddy.

 
I use a Lee universal decapping die and pins from Squirrel Daddy for removing primers, recently did 2200 pieces of Lake City 5.56.
The stock Lee pin bent after some use, I have never had a problem with the stronger steel in the pins from Squirrel Daddy.


I second this on the Lee / Squirrel Daddy combination. I didn't want to add an extra step, but this combination just works. So, everything gets de-primed with this and then move on to the normal process. I got tired of breaking pins too.

BTW AMT, is your icon Automags? If so, awesome. I bought one about a year ago after wanting one forever. I plan on loading up some so I can fire off from one of my dream firearms.

Jon
 
Flash hole irregularities on this brass is probably the issue.
I can't think of a single rifle case that has broken a pin, i've had pistol cases do it when there was a rock or some other debris in there that didn't come out.

I have a range of RCBS and Lee pins
I've noticed that some of the flash holes are so crudely punched out that my Frankford Arsenal hand depriming tool won't work. I've ended up setting those pieces of brass aside and then go back with a Lyman flash hole reamer and clean them up. Then the primer can be punched out...
 

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