Crimping for semi pistols.

[Member 5605]

I don't crimp for semi- pistols. I do crimp for Quasi-pistols though.

TBH, the semi auto pistols should be taper crimped.

I used to seat and crimp in one step. I now seat then crimp in two different steps, the final product is more consistent all around. I have made the investment to have a FCD for all calibers that I load in pistol form.

Now the FCD for .357, .44's and .38's are really neat how the roll crimp happens.

It is though essential for the FCD IMO to be used so you can get the bulge out of the case from the bullet.

 

[gunsmithkinks]

Semi-auto pistol rounds should be taper crimped always, because the straight walled case pistol round headspaces on the case mouth in semi-autos. Revolvers can be roll crimped if they use half moon clips etc, but taper crimped once again IF they headspace in the mouth of the case. Like in a cylinder of a revolver such as a 357 mag/9mm combo cylinder single action for example like in Ruger's Blackhawks.

 

[Alexx1401]

Ditto the Lee Factory Crimp die. Tried one the first time decades back. Friend had a .38 I tried to roll some ammo for. Many of them did not want to chamber. Looked like it had real tight cylinder. Bought a Lee FC die and they all dropped in like factory. Then tried it on my autos and it made things SOOOO much easier at set up. Ended up buying one for every caliber I load.

 

[Zathras]

Separate steps... At least on my .40 and 10mm I use the standard Lee 3-die set (sans their crimp die) because they're economical and work, and have a Hornady taper crimp die as the last step. I think that decision came from me reading a bunch of people on 40/10mm forums saying to not use the Lee FC. It could all be fear-mongering.

 

[FordPrefect]

Oh my revolver rounds, I do a heavy roll crimp. I've notice speed differences when I do a lighter roll, so from my experiences, it helps hold the bullet in the case just a bit longer to help develop the pressure needed.

Semi-auto, 9mm and 45 ACP I taper crimp and I do it in one operation. My experience reading about this is due to the headspace requirement as well as needing some tension on the bullet it's self so that the bullet doesn't creep either out or in during the firing of the weapon. It doesn't need to be much, just enough to add the needed tension.

The only rifle I currently reload for is .223/5.56. When I am doing my "plinking" rounds, I seat/taper crimp in one operation. I've not had any issues with that so far. For my service rifle loads, I just seat the bullet with no crimp. The bullet I use is nearly twice as long as the plinking round so I don't worry about it coming out.

 

[MrRob96]

This entire idea of headspacing off the case mouth is the right way to go. Taper crimp there. Only taper enough to take the bell off the case mouth! On straight wall cases, this is all I've ever needed. You aren't trying to smash the brass into the bullet. The case mouth tension holds the bullet on these straight wall auto pistol cases. Any heavy crimp will increase case pressure, maybe dangerously so. A light crimp may cause chambering issues. Don't crimp too hard, and do the plunk test.

Revolvers and bottle neck cartridges may be a different matter.

My $0.02 from a few years of reloading. There are plenty of people that will give you opinions based on years of doing things overly safe or downright wrong.

Like everything gun related, people get overly invested in their own ritual and will defend it as if part of their identity.

 

[MrRob96]

BTW don't take my word for it.

Go buy a reloading manual and read.

 

[edslhead]

Some interesting 38 sup I picked up. looks like it head spaces on the extractor.

 

[DizzyJ]

Some interesting 38 sup I picked up. looks like it head spaces on the extractor.
View attachment 565294

Wut the.....

 

[Mikej]

Some interesting 38 sup I picked up. looks like it head spaces on the extractor.
View attachment 565294

Winchester white box....Just sayin'

 

[HighlandLofts]

I will read up some in my books, but interested what the majority of the guys are doing in real life. I read the instructions in the Hornady Custom Die Set and it explains howto set it up as a one step , seat and crimp.

It would seam to me that you would be pushing the bullet deeper in the die while you are crimping it at the same time.

A two step operation makes more sence to me.
I went to the Tulalip Cabelas this morning to pick up 9mm, 10mm, and 45acp crimp dies. They didn't have any in these calibers. I then went to Costal Farm Supply in Marysville to see what they had. Just RCBS stuff so tomorrow afternoon I will hit up the Sportsman's Warehouse or what ever it's called in Everett down by the mall and see what they have.
If they don't have anything I guess I will go get them on Ebay.

 

[Mikej]

Just in case 28 posts isn't enough....

Brass length will determine how much crimp you get. Roll crimped brass should all be with .002" in length. Well, if you want a uniform crimp anyway. And want to avoid light crimps and/or folded cases.

Considering I use mixed range brass for 9mm, .40 and .45acp and don't trim those, the degree of taper crimp varies. You feel it in the handle.

 

[Wayne]

The Lee FCD is for those who can not adjust their dies correctly. Also, keep in mind the rifle FCD is different than the pistol FCD, The rifle has no carbide ring to resize the case. Lee sells a "just" a taper crimp die.

 

[Mikej]

I will read up some in my books, but interested what the majority of the guys are doing in real life. I read the instructions in the Hornady Custom Die Set and it explains howto set it up as a one step , seat and crimp.

It would seam to me that you would be pushing the bullet deeper in the die while you are crimping it at the same time.

A two step operation makes more sence to me.
I went to the Tulalip Cabelas this morning to pick up 9mm, 10mm, and 45acp crimp dies. They didn't have any in these calibers. I then went to Costal Farm Supply in Marysville to see what they had. Just RCBS stuff so tomorrow afternoon I will hit up the Sportsman's Warehouse or what ever it's called in Everett down by the mall and see what they have.
If they don't have anything I guess I will go get them on Ebay.

With a taper crimp the die just Baaaarrrrely squeezes the top of the brass at the Veeeerry bottom of the stroke. So there's that. If you want to go getting an FCD for every taper crimped cartridge you load it's fine by me. I just don't see why though? I guess if you're going for some incredible accuracy record out to hundreds of yards then....? If that's the case you should probably start trimming all you taper crimped cartridges to identical lengths too. And then check every case before the next loading and trim accordingly. Case wall thickness will play a part if were going to make this work too. Where's that head spinning icon?

 

[Mikej]

The Lee FCD is for those who can not adjust their dies correctly. Also, keep in mind the rifle FCD is different than the pistol FCD, The rifle has no carbide ring to resize the case. Lee sells a "just" a taper crimp die.

There you go. I think that's the perfect way to say it. And confirms what I thought. An FCD still has to be adjusted at a certain length, as far as I knew. You seat your bullet at the desired OAL, and when you put it in the FCD if one piece of brass is .005" longer than another, you're still going to have heavy and light crimps. Have I got that right?

 

[Member 5605]

The Lee FCD is for those who can not adjust their dies correctly.

I disagree whole heartedly.

Beyond the crimp you get, the FCD also uniformly sizes the brass and removes any and all bulges or irregularities from the case that may have happened when you shoved that bullet into the mouth.

It uniformly sizes not just puts crimp and that my friend is important.

Have you ever owned and used one?

 

[MrRob96]

I've never seen the FCD remove the bulges and ripples from the body of the case. Then again I adjust my resizing dies properly.

I do have the FCD in 10/40 and 357 Sig. I could have saved my money.

The FCD is the turbonator of the reloading world. Some guys swear it gives them the extra 5% gas mileage, other guys see it as a step above gimmick.

Seat and crimp in one step unless you want that ultra consistent COL. I'm ok with a ~.003-4" variance in my rounds. My loads aren't on the hairy edge of high pressure, nor am I trying to get sub moa accuracy out of a Glock.

 

[HighlandLofts]

The problem i have is the ammo will not feed in my glock 17.
Once i solve that I'm good to go. So if the FCD will take care of the problem for $20 I will be one happy camper. My grandson will be more happier when he can shoot it with out any issues.

 

[Alexx1401]

With a taper crimp the die just Baaaarrrrely squeezes the top of the brass at the Veeeerry bottom of the stroke. So there's that. If you want to go getting an FCD for every taper crimped cartridge you load it's fine by me. I just don't see why though?

I started doing it for reliability. I never wanted to go through cases to make sure they were exactly the same length. Found that often a pistol that was picky would make rolling for it hard if I did not sort the brass. Since the crimp if set up to do on the seat, all cases had to be the same. After I discovered the FC dies I quickly found I no longer needed to worry. Set the seat to only set the round where I wanted it, no crimp. Run all through a FC die. All of a sudden any pistol that would feed factory would feed everything I rolled. Made it well worth it to me since my brass has always been a mix master of everything I buy from time to time. Also never bother to trim them. On strait wall just roll them till the mouth splits. Only exception for me was when I was still rolling .40. Those I kept track of and only rolled twice, I would then leave it behind.

 

[HighlandLofts]

All i need is reliability to feed for my grandson to plink with nothing else. The ammo I leave in the gun at home or when I carry it is factory Hornady Critical Defence.
As long as the reloaded ammo cycles I will be happy. If I find the crimp die localy I will find out this weekend.
If they don't have it in Everett I will call Skagit Arms and Kessilrings and see if they hane one.while in Everett later today I might call Pinto's in Renton.