"convert" revolver from .357 to 9x19?

[RX-79G]

Beat me to it.

The Medusa/547 extractor thing is neato, but moonclips are faster and still let you use .380, 9mm, 38, .357.

 

[kmk1012]

Has anyone currently participating in this thread tried ultra lightweight 9mm factory ammo in a revolver? Specifically asking about whether or not the bullet tried to "walk" out of cartridge case.

My thoughts are that the extra crimp might be unnecessary if you choose a factory load that doesn't need help.

Not yet but I'm willing to be a test subject, I'll look for some next time I'm in a store with them on hand. I normally only shoot my loads but this is science!

 

[RX-79G]

Has anyone currently participating in this thread tried ultra lightweight 9mm factory ammo in a revolver? Specifically asking about whether or not the bullet tried to "walk" out of cartridge case.

My thoughts are that the extra crimp might be unnecessary if you choose a factory load that doesn't need help.

Why, does it kick a lot? Or just short in the case.

 

[VinnieBoomBah]

Why, does it kick a lot? Or just short in the case.

bullet setback with lightweight revolvers? - The Firing Line Forums

bullet setback with lightweight revolvers? Handguns: The Revolver Forum

thefiringline.com

 

[Knobgoblin]

Why, does it kick a lot? Or just short in the case.

It's a commonly referenced issue particular to the 9mm revolver. Seems like a heavy solid (147gr. Fmj ,for example) would shift more readily than one of the newer or weirder 100gr. or less offerings.



These Ruger branded ARX polymer bullets are stupid lite , 65 or 85gr. I'm wondering if they're more or less likely to suffer from this problem. No obvious visible crimp present.

 

[kmk1012]

I've experienced setback with the heavier loads in my 929, nothing a Lee Factory Crimp Die couldn't handle. I never used to crimp 9mm until I got a revolver in that cartridge. Now, it all gets crimped so I don't have to separate loads.

 

[sojerguy]

Time to toss in my $0.02. Over the years I've had several 9mm revolvers. A S&W 597 (I believe), with some funky extraction fingers for the rimless cartridge, a Ruger Speed-six also in 9mm, with an equally funky set of wire rings to do the rimless cartridge extraction (though I may have gotten the smith and ruger extraction methods swapped), and finally a Blackhawk convertible in 357/9mm. Issues with all three made them go down the road elsewhere. The .357 blackhawk of course has a larger barrel (.357) as opposed to a 9mm (.355) with some attendant accuracy issues and a little difficulty in getting the ejection rod back far enough. Cast 9mm bullets sized to .357 caused some difficulty with bulged cases, as did lighter weight jacketed .357 bullets loaded into the 9mm cases. The funky fingers and extraction wire rings on the two DA pistols also dis-enchanted me.

So nowaday I'd probably get a revolver specifically designed for the 9mm with full/half moon rings.

Just me saying it.

 

[RX-79G]

It's a commonly referenced issue particular to the 9mm revolver. Seems like a heavy solid (147gr. Fmj ,for example) would shift more readily than one of the newer or weirder 100gr. or less offerings.

View attachment 1194543View attachment 1194544

These Ruger branded ARX polymer bullets are stupid lite , 65 or 85gr. I'm wondering if they're more or less likely to suffer from this problem. No obvious visible crimp present.

I don't think I'd be inclined to go over 124 grain anyway, but I'm not surprised the 147s pull.

 

[RX-79G]

The .357 blackhawk of course has a larger barrel (.357) as opposed to a 9mm (.355) with some attendant accuracy issues and a little difficulty in getting the ejection rod back far enough.

Why would that be a problem? The case is shorter, but the primer pocket at the same depth where the rod hits.

 

[Frank RW]

sounds like a lot of thought/effort into something nearly pointless. just carry what you'll carry, don't sweat the caliber etc.

 

[WAYNO]

From a Blackhawk or Speed Six, I've never experienced bullet jump, regardless of bullet weight or velocity.

 

[CLT65]

Auctions show them for under $1K

I don't have a single S&W revolver that doesn't go for over $1K

Times are changing I guess. I have a lot of S&W revolvers, (most of them older and all bought used, but many pretty nice) and have never paid $1000 for any one gun in my life. It's hard to adjust my thinking to changing times and inflation.

These and some other states will eventually ban most, if not all semis.

Federal will eventually follow suit.

I can't look at things quite that defeatist. We don't know what the future holds, and I don't buy into the Progressives' assumption that their "Progressive utopia future" is inevitable. Maybe I'm too optimistic.

 

[The Heretic]

I bought my 329 PD 10+ years ago. I paid something like $1100 for it IIRC.

Four of my S&W revolvers are Performance Center guns, and the fifth one is a collectable kit gun.

 

[CLT65]

I was just looking at a nice looking S&W 617 .22LR, but can't bring myself to spend $900. I think the most I've spent previously was $500 for a very nice model 29. I've seen a number of nice, vintage model 29's for over $1k lately, wondered if that's what they're going for now.

Sorry to drift the thread.

 

[Pandaz3]

I don't have a 380 Charter Pitbull, but I have them in 9 MM, 40 S&W, and 45 ACP. Novelty pieces really. loading is more difficult than it should be and unloading is very slow and cumbersome. NOT a fighting hand gun at all.

 

[Papercidal]

I got a spare cylinder off eBay for one Of my m19s with the intent of sending it out to convert to .38 super (which will also run 9mm) for when I'm too busy to load .38/.357.

 

[The Heretic]

I was just looking at a nice looking S&W 617 .22LR, but can't bring myself to spend $900. I think the most I've spent previously was $500 for a very nice model 29. I've seen a number of nice, vintage model 29's for over $1k lately, wondered if that's what they're going for now.

Sorry to drift the thread.

All of my S&W revolvers, save the Kit Gun, are Performance Center guns, and three of them are a mixture or Scandium/Titanium and stainless, one, the 460V is all stainless. So they tend to cost more. I like them all. The Kit Gun is a collectable so it too costs more.

 

[The Heretic]

Thinking about the Chiappa Rhino - they make 9mm & .40 revolvers. A custom shop converts their .40 revolvers into 10mm revolvers. Not sure about that with the aluminum frame, but it would be fun to have one in 10mm that could also shoot .40 S&W.

And yes, I know both Ruger & S&W make 10mm revolvers that can shoot .40 S&W, but they are heavy things - about a pound heavier than the Chiappa Rhino.

 

[RVTECH]

the 460V is all stainless.

I'll be shooting one of these soon for the first time!

Owner tells me it has less recoil than a large frame .357 with heavy loads.

 

[The Heretic]

I'll be shooting one of these soon for the first time!

Owner tells me it has less recoil than a large frame .357 with heavy loads.

It is a pussycat compared to my 329PD. The beastly weight and the comp really help. The fireballs (including halos) are fun and sometimes are visible during the day. I am going to have the cylinder cut for moon clips so I can shoot .45 ACP in it, which should be a pleasant load to shoot - in my 325TR the 230gr ball ammo is not pleasant, but doesn't hurt either.

With magnum loads you know you have shot a magnum, but it is not painful - not like the 329PD.

From what I read online, I think a LOT of people have quite different impressions of recoil, especially with handguns, but I have never read of anybody thinking the 329PD is not at least a handful, especially with really powerful loads like the 325 gr 1200 fps bear loads I have - they literally drew blood and anything I have shot in it, including 200 gr Special loads at 900 fps and the Hornady 165 gr Critical Defense, left my hands stinging - the heavier the load, the longer my hands were numb.