- Thread Starter
- #81
Is the factory ammo all the same lot#?
Ir even same brand?
Yes even the little "tat" that can stick up from say glock firing pin channels (i know this isnt your case but just for an example.
I deprime my brass with a dedicated lee universal depriming die. (They are very cheap)
It WILL help for sure, it wont hurt at all. And it will be just one more thing to rule out. Its just a matter of how much it will help.
Have you deburred flash holes?
And how many powder primer combos have you tried? It could be a combination of those. I hear some people want small primer .308 and 6.5CM etc because they are more consistent.
Then on the other hand i hear all the time about slow igniting powders and having to use a larger or rather magnum primer. Single base and double base powders does matter.
Also generally i hear you usually get the better groups or lower SD's when you hover around max case fill capacity because when your case is full up or even compressed it is also more uniform every shot. The powder wont move in the casing or pile up against the bullet. Far away from the primer flash etc. Its always exactly same position shot after shot.
I noticed about two "charge nodes" when loading for both my grendel and 556. First of all i take the max charge and load down 10% below max. Amd verify it through multiple books or mfgr. Then load up to and sometimes just a little over max to make sure i actually hit max and show a little pressure signs (nothing crazy)
Between -10% max and max i usually see about two charge nodes maybe more. One is usually around or near max case cap or even compressed.
Like i said before.
(This step really is critical)
Save another fired case (save a few really for future reference) and size it fully and slot the neck and put the bullet your using in it by hand and seat it far out (at this point i sometimes measure it to make sure it moves) and then chamber it and extracts it. Catch it when it ejects so it doesn't hit anything and move again.
And then gently measure it (either the COAL base to tip, or best way is to measure from base to ogive with the hornady comparitor set) with a pair of calipers. And repeat this process say 6-10 times (really the more the better especially if variance) if all six come out exactly to the same thousandth of a inch thats good enough (i might measure two more just to be sure)
Then take that and measurement amd load your bullets to that length minus -.02 to -.030" then find your powder node then play with expending this jump further out.
Again Seating the bullet further out will only lower pressure, so theres no worry of pressure raising.
Also test your loaded ammo by smacking the bullet end on a table or peice of wood etc and measuring the bullet to see if it moves. Otherwise you may want to crimp. (Otherwise try to avoid crimping altogether at all costs.
One thing to check right off the bat, you have checked your scope right? Its not moving? I even go so far as to use purple loctite inside my rings to sort of glue the optic in the rings. (If they are cheaper rings like mine, if they are spuhr or bobro or something its fairly pointless) the recoil lug and stock is all tight and mounted firmly?
Is the stock bedded or glassed in any way for accurizing?
What kind of bolt action is it exactly?
Brand/model/builder/parts etc.?
Most importantly factory barrel or aftermarket and maker?
Start watching the TiborasaurusRex videos that dude covers everything extensively ina scientific manner and WILL square you away. Plus hes an awesome guy. Sometimes maybe a little repetitive maybe a little goofey, but creme de le creme as far as accuracy goes. (And you dont have to watch ALL the videos, you shouldnt need corealis effect calcs for hunting)
Im pretty much doing all of this, but this is helpful to confirm im on the right path. I have to keep a balance between my entry skill level and overwhelming myself with expert level techniques... but I do read pro shooting blogs when things catch my attention and take mental notes. Im not certain yet if I even need to go all out for just a production level hunting rifle, but its a good one as Im getting between 1 and 1.5inch moa with Hornady factory ammo (which Im using the brass to reload, all the same lot...). Its a Rem 700 with a Leupold VX-6HD 3x18 bedded and floated.
Right now I do not have any options for trying different primers and powders but what little I have is at or near the top of the list in all load data sources so Im confident its not those components. I need to learn to reload better consistency. This is why Ive been posting and asking questions to learn on the fast track to avoid wasting my powder, the one on one replies from members here has been incredibly helpful and Ive referred back to my threads here often.
