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After watching a video of a mechanic replacing the head gasket, there is no way in HELL I'm doing it myself!

Serious? It is a piece of cake. Just looks like a daunting task...it really isn't. If you were closer and I hadn't just gone through surgery, I'd swing out and show you just how easy it really is.
 
If it's your third vehicle, fix it yourself.

All the options are covered.
It is as easy as folks say. A friend and I did one when I was 13 yrs old....
Dont rush and use all the advice available.

One other advantage is you will know your truck. If things go south in the future your not gonna need someone else to fix it.
Unless the tranny goes...
 
These guys are right, a head gasket on a 89, V8 Chevy is pretty straight forward. Since it is not your primary vehicle and it sounds like you don't need it tomorrow morning, you can take your time. Not to mention it was your Dads.

I had an 88 C2500 Silverado when i moved up here from Orange County, CA. I sold it and bought a K2500 Silverado (I didn't need a 4X4 in So-Cal) The tear down of the project can be a little intimidating at the time as you wonder how your going put it back together but once you start rebuilding, your confidence grows. If you can take a firearm apart and put it back together, you have this covered.

I still have the manuals from my 88 that will cover your 89 you can have. I'll PM you my cell #, if you decide you want to DIY and want to talk about it more in depth, feel free to give me a call.

Lefty.
 
I am a mechanic -- a real, actual, certified (blah blah blah) one. Ignoring the Chevy vs Ford vs Toyota stuff, from a financial standpoint I would say it makes more sense to fix what you have. You have some history with the truck and feel it's otherwise sound. If you just ditch it and buy something else you'll be taking on someone else's unknown problems. It really isn't a tough job to do yourself. If you are mechanically inclined enough to replace the water pump, you can certainly handle the head gaskets. All you'll need beyond basic hand tools is a torque wrench and a timing light. You can probably borrow both. All of the electrical plugs/connectors are different so there's no way to screw that up. Between gaskets, coolant, oil, filter, etc, you can do it yourself for under $100. I would realistically plan to spend most of a weekend if you're doing it in your driveway and haven't done it before. In fact, if you were to post a thread while you're working, many of us could probably guide you through it in real time.
 
Another good thing to have is a nice metal straightedge to make sure the head didn't warp - just line the edge up at various points on the mating surface of the head (head gasket side) to make sure the surface is flat. Not as likely on cast iron heads as on aluminum but can still happen - if it is warped a bit a machine shop can mill it flat fairly cheap. I don't recall if the rockers are straight bolt down or are adjustable - if adjustable its the most difficult/time consuming part if you haven't done it before IMO.
If you do take on the task take pictures as you go so you have reference. Also as stated above the wiring is set up to be difficult to screw up. You may want to look at the vacuum lines and make sure there aren't any that can be plugged into the wrong spot and if so label them with masking tape so you get them lined up in the right connection. One way I kept things from getting mixed up was take a piece of cardboard and punched holes in it in the same pattern of the head bolts and push rods so you just pull them back out of the appropriate hole and reinsert them into the appropriate spot on the engine for reassembly.
 
Another good thing to have is a nice metal straightedge to make sure the head didn't warp - just line the edge up at various points on the mating surface of the head (head gasket side) to make sure the surface is flat. Not as likely on cast iron heads as on aluminum but can still happen - if it is warped a bit a machine shop can mill it flat fairly cheap. I don't recall if the rockers are straight bolt down or are adjustable - if adjustable its the most difficult/time consuming part if you haven't done it before IMO.
If you do take on the task take pictures as you go so you have reference. Also as stated above the wiring is set up to be difficult to screw up. You may want to look at the vacuum lines and make sure there aren't any that can be plugged into the wrong spot and if so label them with masking tape so you get them lined up in the right connection. One way I kept things from getting mixed up was take a piece of cardboard and punched holes in it in the same pattern of the head bolts and push rods so you just pull them back out of the appropriate hole and reinsert them into the appropriate spot on the engine for reassembly.

Headbolt position doesn't matter (unless 2 different sizes), but pushrod location DEFINITELY matters.
 
I don't suppose any of you who advocate DIY would actually come over to my place and help me do it would you? I'd definitely make it worth your while!
 
I'm a hobbyist at best and haven't worked on any american cars (just Nissan Z cars, which are a pain and a half!), but with the assistance of a good web guide or Chilton's manual, I'm sure we could knock it out in a day.

I'm easily bribed with beer (since I'm not a pro, I couldn't imagine taking a bunch of money for it) as well.

If that all sounds good and you don't get a better offer, I would be glad to give you a hand.
 
I will be working 10-12 hour days through the end of the year - depending on if they pick me up full time after the end of the year I may be able to come down in January. I have the torque wrench and if I can find it a timing light. Unfortunately I won't know until sometime around the first of the year if I will have any free time in January.
 
I'd definitely hit up one of these guys to help you fix it. That way, you won't spend alot, it will teach you something about motors, and your helping a buddy with a little cash for x-mas, or towards a gun purchase.
 
My offer is valid. We can even push the truck into my garage to work on it so we're out of the rain! I'd prefer someone who's either actually done this, or is a Chevy guru!
 
I am a little troubled by the diagnosis, it is not likely that a head gasket would put coolant into the exhaust. Typically a blown headgasket will (1) allow coolant and oil to mix or (2) allow compression into the cooling system preventing proper flow and causing a overheat issue. Coolant in the exhaust would likely be caused by (1) a cracked head allowing coolant into an exhaust port or (2) an intake manifold gasket issue allowing coolant into the intake ports and simply passing it thru. As for the "is it worth it" question, I think you already answered that when you said the truck has sentimental value. Aside from that the thought of simply buying another $1500vehicle, if you needed to, typically doesn't get you into any better position since anything you buy for $1500 will not be without new challenges. As for fixing it I would certainly be willing to help, can do trade for firearms related stuff or cash price would be WAY cheaper than the prices mentioned above. I am busy this coming weekend but somewhat available after that and I have a trailer so we couldtransport the truck to my place. PM me if interested in talking and we can exchange phone #'s
 
I am a little troubled by the diagnosis, it is not likely that a head gasket would put coolant into the exhaust. Typically a blown headgasket will (1) allow coolant and oil to mix or (2) allow compressio into the cooling system preventing proper flow and causing a overheat issue. Coolant in the exhaust would likely be caused by (1) a cracked head allowing coolant into an exhaust port or (2) an intake manifold gasket issue allowing coolant into the intake ports and simply passing it thru. As for the is it worth it question, I think you already answered that when you said the truck has sentimental value. Aside from that the thought of simply buying another $1500vehicle, if you needed to, typically doesn't get you into any better position since anything you buy for $1500 will not be without new challenges. As for fixing it I would certainly be willing to help, can do trade for firearms related stuff or cash price would be WAY cheaper than the prices mentioned above. I am busy this coming weekend but somewhat available after that and I have a trailer so we couldtransport the truck to my place. PM me if interested in talking and we can exchange phone #'s

What he said!

A little more description as to what was going on before and what happened when ,as you say, it "Went Out For Good". You want to make sure you weren't running with coolant diluted oil for some time.

Mike
 
I don't suppose any of you who advocate DIY would actually come over to my place and help me do it would you? I'd definitely make it worth your while!

I probably wouldn't be able to do it in person but, like I said earlier, could certainly aid you via PM or a thread. The thread would probably work best since you could post pics if necessary and others could be involved. I've got quite a few tips that can make the job cleaner/smoother if you decide to do it yourself. As others have mentioned, it's possible that you have a cracked head but in my experience it's likely to be just the gasket. Only one way to find out. Keep us posted.
 
Biggest issue is what you find once you get the heads off ;) If I were you.... $1500 bid? Start looking for lightly used engines, or certified used, or rebuilt engines.... Chevy? So I am sure theres a wrecked one on CL, a compression tested one in a junk yard, or try looking online for a company selling one...

Sounds like you drove it for a long time with an issue that causes corrosion in places you dont want it... I would be preparing for the worst, even if you try to restore the current engine.

Learn as you go. Sounds like plenty of people here can lend a hand on the weekend for moving heavy stuff. Ive seen engine hoists for $100-150 used on CL....

Is the transmission sound? Last thing you need is to get the engine issue fixed, and have the transmission go out!
 
$66 for a head gasket set from NAPA. 8.5 hrs labor to do both gaskets. Which is what I would do since the kit comes with both and it is just a few more bolts.
$1500? wow they must have a hell of a markup.

89 is an easy rig to work on and it's in a pickup. It doesn't get much easier than that.
Keep it organized pulling it down and it will just fall back together.
Take pics of stuff and where it goes for future reference.
Even if the head is cracked they are a dime a dozen.

If the engine is getting up there in miles I would also replace the timing chain since you are right there as well since it is a good bet that it is worn and sloppy. A good one is only about $30.
 
If the engine is getting up there in miles I would also replace the timing chain since you are right there as well since it is a good bet that it is worn and sloppy. A good one is only about $30.
Lets not get ahead of ourselves. Aside from having the coolant already drained, almost none of the labor overlaps. You aren't really "right there" to do the timing chain. While I agree it's probably due for one, I would almost consider it a more complicated job for a first-time-arounder. Maybe Ironbar should focus on the head gaskets first.
 
intake manifold gaskets leaking are a much more common problem on those years of chevys, especially if it has had dirty dex-cool in it. if you dig into it take a good hard look at the intake gaskets, you may very well find your problem there.
 

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