AR15 build, step 1, lower reciever

[Koda]

quick note about Midway and Brownells, I've had excellent customer service from both. I like the way Midway communicates every step of the way via email and is super quick to process your order and let you know the second it shipped.

Now as for Stoner quality, that's another issue regardless of who sells it. I'll stay away from Stoner from now on unless I hear rave reviews, glad I just got a basic LPK so hopefully the few parts and pins don't give me grief. One thing I didn't think about was ordering parts directly from my lower mfg, Spikes... apparently I made a good choice there except I should have got the Molon Labe emblem instead of their spider emblem.... but not that there's anything wrong with that!

 

[oli700]

glad I just got a basic LPK so hopefully the few parts and pins don't give me grief.

you will be fine most likely

LPK's should be as good as you can get though. it seems innocent but there are many a tolerance and hardening process that need to be followed to the tee

I had a Ptac LPK that would drop the hammer on safe, had another Ptac LPK that had the worse trigger in any rifle I had ever felt, it would literally cam the hammer about a quarter inch before release, didn't think it was physically possible

i usually was fine with Midway
AR Stoner is their brand
When MY BCG went I had had it for about a year before I built the rifle
Their policy says "return to manufacturer" after that amount of time

I say "OK, who is it" they say " We are AR Stoner"
I say " great, where do I send it".....they say " well its been over a year so send it back to manufacturer"......
I say " ok, Where is the factory"......" well I dont really know"......I say "ok, I can send it to you and you can refund or send me another one"......
they say " been over a year, you have to send it to the manufacurer".........
I say " Ok who is it"
They say " AR Stoner is Midway's brand'

It went like that for about 10 minutes

I even wrote Larry Potterfield because everyone says, "write the man and he will take care of it"......yeah, I think he is dead

 

[Koda]

LPK's should be as good as you can get though. it seems innocent but there are many a tolerance and hardening process that need to be followed to the tee

are there any specific components I should scrutinize or consider ordering separately?

The Stoner LPK was only 30 bucks.... not a huge investment and at this point would be easy to return unopened....

 

[oli700]

are there any specific components I should scrutinize or consider ordering separately?

The Stoner LPK was only 30 bucks.... not a huge investment and at this point would be easy to return unopened....

its a crap shoot really.
You may have the best LPK ever on the way. You just don't know till you have it in your hand and in your rifle.
I try to narrow down the chance these days by getting LPK from decent manufactures without the fire control group and just put an aftermarket trigger of my choice.
But I have gotten all that and still had the safety selector be super stiff because the detent relief was not cut deep enough.....or real sloppy from being cut to deep so sometimes you cant win and just replace pars that suck along the way
I have also gotten a LPK from Core15, unknown at the time, in the last panic and the fire control group was the nicest I ever had from a kit and it is as good as an ALG ACT as far a creep and comes in at 6lbs .......no rhyme or reason sometimes

 

[gryghin]

Ok, so I have built 4 PSA lowers, the first one was with a DPMS LPK - there was an issue with the bolt catch being too stiff, so I had to sand down the latch to make it fit into the channel. The next one I used the classic PSA LPK and it went together without any issues. The next two I used to teach my oldest boy how to build the AR lower, I used the enhanced MOE PSA LPK without any issues during the build.

We've had the oldest one for over 5 years and haven't had any issues. The second one which was pure PSA for 4 years and no issues as well.

During the build process, I used a clevis pin with multiple holes in it to install the pivot pin.
To install the trigger guard, I start it using needle nose pliers and a hammer then I use a C-clamp to apply steady pressure to the roll pin to push it into place. When I do this, I put some masking tape on the ears, and then put plastic where the clamp contacts the ear so that it doesn't wear off the finish as it is spinning.

Everything else is straightforward.

 

[70cyclone]

magpul grip, agl trigger, and lower parts(colored bags for your protection lol) kit from Curts
built a couple that way with no issues

 

[gryghin]

As, others have stated, this is just as fun as making them go boom in the right direction. If you're on the Westside of the Portland Area, it would be cool to go over a build. My oldest boy and I built his while watch a football game. I was watching... he was working. Reach out if you're interested.

 

[Koda]

Ok so I did most of the LKP installation except the rear takedown pin and trigger guard. I don't have the receiver extension/ rear stock picked out yet and have an issue with the Magpul trigger guard came with two roll pins and no set screw .
I emailed both Midway and Magpul about the set screw. I asked Midway to send me a set screw and asked Magpul what the size/thread of the set screw is. Its just a $9 part but it irritates me to have to return such a small part, I will send the part back to Midway if needed but I don't see why I cant just go to the hardware store and buy the set screw for a few cents....

question 1: anyone here know the thread size and length of the set screw? Or am I asking a total noob question and supposed to use the second roll pin up front?

Now onto the build, I found it easy. I purchased a basic gunsmith hammer and punch set, no roll pin holders. I still think roll pin holders are a good idea but I found it easy to start the insertion with a pair of needle nose pliers for the bolt catch pin. Everything else was easy enough so onto my second question....

I followed LPK instructions from itstactical.com, was mostly straight forward except for the safety/selector install when it came to the function check, I quote "Perform a function check at this point by placing the Safety Selector in the safe position and cock the hammer back..." ...except I cant put the selector on safe unless the hammer is fully cocked.

question 2: should I be able to select safe position with the hammer uncocked? Its a total noob question I kow but I have to ask because they either worded their instruction wrong or I installed something wrong... my hunch is no just by looking at the mechanics with the sear under the hammer cam surface... but I dont want to assume anything.

according to this Brownells video I did everything right but it didn't directly answer my question

 

[Ironbar]

Question 1- I don't know.

Question 2- You did it right.

 

[Koda]

hey folks, anything wrong with AR Stoner LPK?
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/862947/ar-stoner-customizable-lower-receiver-parts-kit-ar-15

this one allows me to buy the exact trigger, grip and trigger guard I want....

now that its all running the bolt catch gets stuck in the up position even with the mag removed and the charging handle pulled all the way back so the bolt clears the catch.... I have to manually depress the bolt catch to get it to disengage.

 

[70cyclone]

now that its all running the bolt catch gets stuck in the up position even with the mag removed and the charging handle pulled all the way back so the bolt clears the catch.... I have to manually depress the bolt catch to get it to disengage.

is it too tight? spring and plunger in correctly? bolt catch usually has tons of play so it shouldn't hang up if assembled correctly.

 

[Koda]

feels like its hanging up on a burr or something, when it frees itself it runs smooth...

will inspect closer later...

 

[Boboclown]

For the screw its 5-40x1/4 I think. Don't quote me on that though.

Edit: or 5/16. Just guessing here.

 

[Brutus57]

During the build process, I used a clevis pin with multiple holes in it to install the pivot pin. this is the way to go, slicker thansnot!
To install the trigger guard, I start it using needle nose pliers and a hammer then I use a C-clamp to apply steady pressure to the roll pin to push it into place. When I do this, I put some masking tape on the ears, and then put plastic where the clamp contacts the ear so that it doesn't wear off the finish as it is spinning.

Everything else is straightforward.[/QUOTE]

Brutus Out