Alternative to True-oil stock finished

[sandy765X53]

I just find out that I can not longer order True-oil stock finished liquid through mail order because it is carcinogen and considered as restrict item by my county. What is the alternative stock finishing oil that gives equally grossy finished . I use True oil on old beat up surplus rifle after cleanning them up a bit to preserved the wood and protect the stock from enviroment (like rain and dust ) . I try boil linseed oil and mint wax but they don't give out that shiny grossy finished. I think linseed oil is on the list too because I haven't seen them for years now.

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[The Cheese]

I use Fromby's Tung Oil from the local hardware store. Its a tung oil mixed with lacquer I think. I like the results I have gotten with it thus far. Either that or if you want a good gloss, get a compressor and just spray lacquer the thing. I think I am going to try the spray lacquer thing next time I redo a stock just to get a super smooth finish that I can use to make the grain really pop. I can do it with the Tung oil but it usually takes a loooooong time. I am turning more into the instant gratification time any more.

 

[Velzey]

Here's what I use, and I do about one stock a week now. I sand it down till it's really smooth. Use boiled linseed oil, use as many coats as will soak in.. Some stocks take two or three some 10. Go over with oooo steel wool between coats. Next I use polyurethane clear spray, either semi gloss or gloss. Whatever the customer prefers.
In between clear coats I make sure it's plenty dry I use super fine sand paper to make sure it's smooth.. Really helps when your spraying that you do it in a room that doesn't have allot of air movement so dust and whatnot doesn't get stuck on the wet stock..


Never leave boiled linseed oil rags in a pile, spread them around and let them dry... Don't burn down your shop that way!!

 

[The Cheese]

I always thought that Poly top coats won't stick to the oil base and you won't get good adhesion with it that way? But I guess if the BLO is dry, its dry I suppose.

 

[jbett98]

eBay has Tru-Oil for less then $8.00, and that includes shipping.

 

[coop44]

good tip about spontaneous combustion!! seen it happen! as an alternative to the poly top coat, pick up a can of the tru oil spray finish and use it as a final topcoat. either that or put on more layers than you think will do the job final sand with some very very fine paper in the 800 and up grit range (or 0000 steel wool). use a loose rag wheel on a slow motor and polish it with some green compound.

it takes a very delicate touch and patience but the results are great.


btw tru oil is basically BLO with drying agents in it, you can make the same at home

 

[sandy765X53]

I will have to hunt down the Tung oil, hopefully it is not list as carcinogen as well. Thanks everyone for great info and tips this is really helpful

 

[MountainBear]

I've always had good luck with Velvit Oil. Takes time, works best when the pores are filled (mud-rubbed), lots of coats, plenty of time to dry between coats. Not sure if its carcinogenic, so you'll have to check...

 

[Bon Sauvage]

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[jonn5335]

I like poly . . . First picture is a rifle I finished with poly and the second picture is a rifle I finished in Tru Oil. The tru oil takes a lot longer to apply usually takes me 3 weeks to put on the 30 or so coats to get a finish that I am happy with. The poly usually takes 3-4 days and usually 3-4 coats to finish and turns out awesome in my opinion.