8mm Mauser Ammo... Thoughts, ideas, input, help?

johnsland8 · Dec 6, 2016

I recently picked up a Czech 98/22 and have a Turkish K.Kale on the way. 8mm Mauser is fairly expensive by my normal standards. S-Guide currently has some steel case stuff on clearance for 8.99/box so I picked one up to try it. The reviews were pretty mixed, works with some, not with others, but I figured for the cost it was worth a shot. Well, when I try to cycle it in the 98/22, the bolt will not close. It's pretty close, but won't do it.

Today I picked up some Turkish Silver Tip from a member here (Thanks Bill). I also picked up a box of Hot Shot 170GR Steel and PRVI 196GR SP Brass. I haven't shot any of it yet but it all cycles fine.
So, I started comparing the one that wouldn't cycle with the ones that will. The Hot Shot looks identical to the stuff from SG. I got out the mic and started measuring. Everything is virtually identical EXCEPT for the length of the taper on the bottleneck. The one that wouldn't close the bolt has a slightly longer taper than the others.
Round on left is Hot Shot, the right with black mark is the SG stuff.

I took a pair of pliers and crimped around the base of the taper to shorten it ever so slightly, and, whatta ya know, the bolt closes easily and it seems to cycle fine.
Pic after crimp:

So, my questions are this:
1) Is this round still safe to shoot or have I made it dangerous?
2) Any idea why this dimensional anomaly exists?
3) The $8.99 price is very attractive, and it's actually slightly less in bulk, but I'm obviously not going to take the time to crimp every round with pliers. Is there a quick, efficient way to fix the neck on these that would make it worthwhile?

The ammo seems to jump from .45 per round to .75 or .80 in a hurry after this stuff so I'm willing to put in a little effort, but only a little.

Thanks!

Andy54Hawken · Dec 7, 2016

Just my thoughts and I'm not trying to be a smart a$$ here but...
The ad states "Non-WWII Dimensions"
I wonder if this is in reference to the taper ?
( Not that you have any control how someone words their sales ad )
Also it might be on clearance for a reason....

I wish had a fix for your problem.
Andy

Goosebrown · Dec 7, 2016

The long term fix is reloading. That isn't cheap to get into but you save s bundle over the long run. I wouldn't change cartridges with pliers myself.

High Drag · Dec 7, 2016

I also have a 98/22 and some Old Turks. Unless the barrels/actions are matching, I think I would check headspace before taking your experiment too far. The pliers idea pegs my WTF meter, but to each their own...

nfield4 · Dec 7, 2016

The only way I would fire the plier-crimped round is with the rifle strapped to a tire and a good length of cord attached to the trigger.

Milsurp 8mm is many times inexpensive, but usually hot. Your two rifles should shoot most milsurp easily if properly head spaced.

johnsland8 · Dec 7, 2016

AndyinEverson said:
Just my thoughts and I'm not trying to be a smart a$$ here but...
The ad states "Non-WWII Dimensions"
I wonder if this is in reference to the taper ?
( Not that you have any control how someone words their sales ad )
Also it might be on clearance for a reason....

I wish had a fix for your problem.
Andy

I agree. It just seems like such a vague statement that it's more like a "cover their a$$" statement than anything meaningful. But, I'm sure it's issues are exactly why it's on clearance.

Goosebrown · Dec 7, 2016

johnsland8 said:
I agree. It just seems like such a vague statement that it's more like a "cover their a$$" statement than anything meaningful. But, I'm sure it's issues are exactly why it's on clearance.

It "sort of" makes sense. WWII and previous the bulk of 8mm was for bolt actions mostly. Afterward the were for machineguns and all these odd semi-autos like the Hakim and the G43s that went to Brazil. It might be that later production runs were optimized for these as there was little expectation that someone was going to use a bolt action again.

johnsland8 · Dec 7, 2016

Thank you guys for the input. Please keep in mind that I NEVER intended to use pliers to make this ammo shootable. It was merely an experiment to see if adjusting the taper would allow it to cycle properly. I wasn't sure if you could run it through a loading press or die to adjust the taper safely and efficiently. It's not worth saving a few $$ for something unsafe.

And yes, the rifles being 70 years old could definitely have clearance or headspace issues but since 3 mfg's cycle just fine and one doesn't, it lends itself more to an ammo problem than a rifle problem. But anything's possible.

Goosebrown · Dec 7, 2016

If you do go the reload route sometime you would be looking $.30 - .40 per shot I think. I don't like to shoot my mauser a much any more. They hurt too much.

DunRanull · Dec 7, 2016

Hmmmm... Ive run into some weird 8mm ammo over the years.., Spanish, Israeli, Persian, what have you... if it were me I wouldnt do business with SG anyway, BUT, as far as the ammo is concerned, running it thru crimping or sizing die might do the trick? I wonder what "Non-ww2 dimensions" means, anyway?? The only 8mm rifle Ive had any issues with being finicky is an Egyptian FN49... it specifically likes Romanian and hates post ww2 East German steel case... Thankfully I was able to fill a likely lifetime of ammo for my Mausers a few years back when it was plentiful and cheap.... as usual, YMMV, pass the salt!

Mikej · Dec 8, 2016

Not much of a long gun guy so take this with a shaker of salt.....Might this be a case where you could put a reamer to the chamber? Not knowing if there are serious pressure differences in the two ammo mentioned. I always like when @Velzey weighs in on these discussions. Seems that he has been a virtual fountain of info on older firearms!