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It looks like your bullet on the right has a ring where it's been jammed into the lands. Just above the canelure?
 
Those are .30 carbine bullets! Make me a smokin' deal and I'll take 'em off your hands. :D
I have 200 of 'em I bought to do exactly what OP is doing and it looks like they won't work. Shoot me a PM and I'll see what I can do for you
 
it is an ogive problem

This. The 110 gr. Speer bullet comes nearly out straight from the case for some distance. If the throat of the rifling is short, a bullet with a long, flat ogive may bump the rifling before the cartridge is fully in battery. If OP wants to keep using this 110 gr. bullet, he's gonna have to seat it deeper for his rifle.

If a rifle has a short throat, this can be an issue with a number of Hornady bullets which often use a tangent ogive.

I have a couple of rifles that I have to watch this on, some bullets just aren't a good design for them.

cannelures are only a suggestion.

While this is generally true, if I'm loading for a lever rifle (or semi-auto or pump), if the bullet has a cannelure I like to use it to avoid possible bullet set-back resulting from the working of the action.

The Speer Varminter 110 gr. .308 bullet is a weird little critter. It's been around for ages. One use is .30 US Carbine. That second ring furthest forward is a sort of cannelure, but very shallow. This was put on the bullet for use in .30 US Carbine loads. Loaded .30 US Carbine doesn't normally take a crimp, so this is likely why Speer makes this secondary groove so shallow.
 
The Speer Varminter 110 gr. .308 bullet is a weird little critter. It's been around for ages. One use is .30 US Carbine. That second ring furthest forward is a sort of cannelure, but very shallow. This was put on the bullet for use in .30 US Carbine loads. Loaded .30 US Carbine doesn't normally take a crimp, so this is likely why Speer makes this secondary groove so shallow.
Shallow for a taper crimp.
 
Assuming that you've purchased the correct size bullets. Besides the *COAL. I'd be thinking, "headspace problem".

Get a headspace gauge to check your resized cases. There are different methods to accomplish this task. Here is one way :


Here is another way :


*Bullets do not always have the same length or profiles (ogive). Even bullets of the same weight and caliber can have different profiles. And, the cannelure is not always the only place to crimp. Some reloading books will be very specific about their particular brand of bullet being used in a particular rifle.

Aloha, Mark
 
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I dont think I can safely seat them much deeper...

Even at the charge I used it was nearly full. I dont even think the max load would fit and not overly compress the load!

Hornady Vol. 9 shows a max charge, for 4064 as a grain and a half more than Im using here...
20191223_131717[1].jpg

I think Ill send these down the road and stick with the 150/170 grainers for now.
 
Is it just me or does 110gr on the right look just a little fatter.the bullet not the case.

The 110 looks like it has less taper from the cannelure to the tip, might be problem.
I have a similar problem with 45/70 Hornaday FTX 325 grain. When loading FTX's in standard cases the OAL is too long and you can't cycle the round from tube to chamber. Hornaday solves the problem by trimming the case back .06 inches. I trim back standard cases to match the Hornaday cases. You could trim the .30-30 cases so the cannelure sits right and the bullet doesn't touch the rifling.

Edit: I didn't see you post about load volume, till after I hit post.
 
Hope I remember this right. The quick and dirty method to check headspace was to cover the case head with a single layer of masking tape. If the bolt closed, it needed work. If not, then you were good.
 
Measure your bullet diameter forward of the cannelure and you will probably find the diameter on the new bullet is larger than the 30-30 bullet. The bullet is the likely culprit because the ogive (forward of the cannelure) is larger. Same thing on 35 Remington. I found it when I wanted to load 180 gr. 357 Mag bullets in the 35 Remington. The ogive contacted the throat and would not let the bolt come into battery so I throated the rifle to accept the 180 gr. pistol bullets which are much cheaper than the 35 Rem bullets.

You can check your sizing by dropping in a FL size case and seeing if it chambers. If it does seat a bullet designed for the 30-30 in it and see if it closes. Then try the same sizing with the bullet in question in the same case and drop it in and if it does not shut you know the bullet is hitting the throat.

You will note 30-30 bullets are advertised for 30-30 where the rest of the bullets in 30 cal are for conventional chambers like 30.06 and 308.

Now the next problem you are going to run into is the OAL of a 30-30 bullet IS ABSOLUTELY CRITICAL and you only have about .015" seat range variation to achieve this. If OAL is too long the round wound clear the feed tube so the carrier can't raise it. If it is too shot it will allow the follow on round to release with first one and then you have a hopeless jam. On a Marlin you have to pull the lever assembly out of the rifle to clear the jam.

The moral of this story is 30-30 is a bastard bullet. Now the good news you can load those same bullets in a 30.06 and they will chamber just fine.

Another thing you can do is seat the carbine bullet deeper, by about .025" at a time till the bolt comes into battery. Base of bullet can be even with bottom on neck. Seat all your rounds the same way and insert first round in chamber and then ONLY LOAD ONE ROUND IN THE FEED TUBE. That will give you a two shot rifle without having to dump your bullets. If you put over one round in feed tube it will allow two rounds out at same time and the hopeless jam( described above) will be the result.
 
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Now the good news you can load those same bullets in a 30.06 and they will chamber just fine.
And a Winchester mod 94 as well.
Don't know about Marlin but I never heard of any similar problems with them.

Henry should resolve this.
Not all reloaders of 30-30 stick with 150 & 170 grain bullets.
 
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I use Unique or Universal (12gr) with 110s. Set deep so I have proper hold on the bullet in my 30-30. Soft shooting.
Hope I remember this right. The quick and dirty method to check headspace was to cover the case head with a single layer of masking tape. If the bolt closed, it needed work. If not, then you were good.
Cellophane tape - masking tape is too thick. You want ~4 mils of thickness for the "no-go". Perhaps the 1894 or 336 models are different?
 
I have a Marlin that I can only control the headspace on with a Humpy gage where I no longer headspace on the rim but on the shoulder. I get long case life as the shoulder is only bumped back about .002" when I FL size thus the case does not get fully worked with I FL Size yet feeds just fine.


It is a Texan with straight grip and EX mount and scope.
 
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This. The 110 gr. Speer bullet comes nearly out straight from the case for some distance. If the throat of the rifling is short, a bullet with a long, flat ogive may bump the rifling before the cartridge is fully in battery. If OP wants to keep using this 110 gr. bullet, he's gonna have to seat it deeper for his rifle.

If a rifle has a short throat, this can be an issue with a number of Hornady bullets which often use a tangent ogive.

I have a couple of rifles that I have to watch this on, some bullets just aren't a good design for them.



While this is generally true, if I'm loading for a lever rifle (or semi-auto or pump), if the bullet has a cannelure I like to use it to avoid possible bullet set-back resulting from the working of the action.

The Speer Varminter 110 gr. .308 bullet is a weird little critter. It's been around for ages. One use is .30 US Carbine. That second ring furthest forward is a sort of cannelure, but very shallow. This was put on the bullet for use in .30 US Carbine loads. Loaded .30 US Carbine doesn't normally take a crimp, so this is likely why Speer makes this secondary groove so shallow.
I only crimp for hard kicking revolvers and have never owned a centerfire tube fed rifle. If I had a box fed or single-shot 30-30 I wouldn't crimp as I've never had a problem never crimping all my bottleneck and straight-wall rifle rounds.
I'd imagine some elephant rounds with hard to ignite powder might benefit given a crimp.
 

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