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Let me start that my grandfathers over 100 year old rifle was passed down to a relative and had a couple discolored spots but no rust. He lived in 3 states, it was never put in a safe, but being visible and used on occasion at the farm, all that it got was a light rubbing with a lightly oiled cloth at times. Thats it. Being visible at all times and being an expensive and important tool, it wasn't tossed in a safe and forgotten. His last place of residence was Medford and that place is pretty dry. So take this screed below with a grain of salt.


Here's the thing. You and you alone have to make the call on how you want this to play out. I had left a BB gun in my basement for @ 2 months and it got rusted fairly bad. My son pointed it out to me, and I think that's a factor of better eyesight. However, I could feel it with my fingers. I found it pretty disturbing. If you have a Sig P210, or 2, in your gun safe, then you might consider spending a bit more effort to keep them looking prime. In the Pacific NorthWET, that's a multilayered thing.If you have a brick basement and there is also water infiltration when it rains hard, then you need a multi-layed approach if your wife makes you put your gun safe down there.Start with getting the basement waterproof. There's lots of ways to approach that, but directing your downspouts away and grading the dirt so it slopes away for @ 10 feet usually gets a lot of it out of the way.
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1st) I use Eezox and don't be just "oiling" my guns when I get back from the range. You might slather the bores with Hopps #9 or any other thing, but as you are putting them in the safe, think of this photo below and choose to spend a bit more time and effort to wipe or spray a light layer of Eezox on them. If you do nothing else, use this stuff as this should help a lot. Whatever product you use, make sure you use it as they direct. Adding more Eezox is counter productive and will lead to jams and frustration later. Things do change all the time. Since Eezox has come out, Hornady has introduced a product that both lubes better and outperforms Eezox, but it smells like it will kill you if you don't vent it and I'm suspicious of it, only having one or 2 kidneys myself, I'd like to keep them. So I'd suggest you do some research if you haven't settled this question to your own satisfaction yet.

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You can google this as lots of guys have done independent testing of the various gun oils like the picture above points out. They apply it to base steel and salt spray test it. Those panels are indicative of that kind of testing you'll see out there. Lots of various products and stuff out there, take a bit to look at what folks have done. Pick one you like. I like Eezox, it's good stuff and cheap.

2nd) Look at getting a room dehumidifer. A good one will both tell you what the moisture % actually measures, and pull the moisture out to what ever the heck you want it to be. I was shocked how much moisture I actually had in here. Of course, the house is over a 100 years old. So in retrospect....lol...My little Delongi will pull a gallon out per day. They make 2 versions of these, one you have to dump it daily, the other can be set up to drain into a drain. Get that one if you have a floor drain accessable, even if you don't use it at first. You don't want to be checking and dumping water daily. <broken link removed> They come in a lot of price points. Again, do your research.

NEXT) Stuff a goldenrod in your safe. $20 and it works as advertised. As said above, it keeps the moisture from hitting dew point. You need a plug in for that, which means that your safe isn't moisture proof any more. But there are strategy's for getting back to moisture-proof, but that's something to think of if you live in a flood plain. I don't, you might. Just remember that for many safes (not all) the place the plug for power enters will most likely allow water in.

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Lastly) , I'd suggest you look at getting 2 E-500 Eva-Drys. They will pull the moisture out of the safe. They recharge via simple wall plug in and work great. Don't get the little jobs cause you need to recharge them too frequently. I just went to replace one that finally failed after 5 years (which is the life expectancy of the things) and Dicks and Fishermans had not even heard of them. So here's a link. Amazon.com: Eva-dry E-500 High Capacity Renewable Wireless Mini Dehumidifier - 4 Pack - Fight dampness in boats, safes, RVs and BIG close: Home & Kitchen

Just toss them inside the safe, I have 2 and rotate the bottom one to the plug in. Moisture is heavy and will settle. The Evas get hot, so keep them off drapes etc etc. They suggest plugging them in overnight....a bit of trust is needed for that:) However, the color changes when they are recharged. Pretty simple. It sounds like a lot, but once you have it set up, never have to worry. Remember that wood stocks can absorb water, then if it gets too dry and your moisture all goes away, crack. Mineral or tung oil can keep that beast at bay if you have non-laquered bare wood stocks.

Good luck! Hope that helps.
 
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70deg Fahrenheit and 50% humidity is what I've read. I set up smartthings with a temp/humidity sensor and an outlet.

I created a webCore statement controlling the outlet based on the temp and/or humidity to power on a golden rod and 2x140mm fans to circulate the air.

I know it's overkill but in 10years maybe I'll save a few dollars on electricity not having it always on for no reason.

There's also a contact sensor controlling the lights and the same outlet. If the door is open then the lights turn on and the outlet turns off. No point on the goldenrod running if the doors open.

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I know a lot of guys who put thier oiled up guns into silicone gun sleeve socks and never have a problem with rust, in or out if a safe. What works for one person might not work for another, as climate you live in plays a big part in it all when it comes to rust. :cool:
 
I've got two of the everdrys in my safe. I live in Oregon and we just bought a new house. Anyway my gunsafe wound up in my garage. I put 2 everdrys put in inside the the safe. It didn't do much even recharging and replacing every two weeks. I'm going to try one of the heating rods and see if it will help. Any ideas beside putting it inside. I also have a fairly new Dillon 650 which is in my shop I have an oversized 2 nd bay in the garage. What can I do about it? I'm just about to build the shop in and run a heat/cool register into it. Help. I've got probably 20 rifles and 35 pistols I don't want to get ruined. Thanks
 
I've got a hot rod in my safe in the garage. It's on the bottom, since heat rises.
Do you live in Hillsboro OR? Out weathers the same. I'm going to have to drill a separate hole in the safe to use the rod. Really not wanting to do that. Does your rod keep things between 45-50 on humity?
 
Do you live in Hillsboro OR? Out weathers the same. I'm going to have to drill a separate hole in the safe to use the rod. Really not wanting to do that. Does your rod keep things between 45-50 on humity?

Yes and yes. My safe came with the outlet kit preinstalled for lights and the hot rod.
 
Do you live in Hillsboro OR? Out weathers the same. I'm going to have to drill a separate hole in the safe to use the rod. Really not wanting to do that. Does your rod keep things between 45-50 on humity?

The golden rod come with the plug separately in the box so you only have to drill a hole large enough for the cord to fit thru and then you install the plug.

If you get a different kind then you can always cut the cord and splice it back together.

Fill your hole with epoxy or whatnot after feeding the cord thru.

The rod should run left to right directly in front of the door.

That's all I got:rolleyes:
 
Thanks so much. I hope this helps or me and the wife will be having a serious discussion about moving the safe inside. I hate to do that as my shop and reloader are right there.
 
It's generally thought that wood needs to be kept at a minimum moisture of between 13 to 23% humidity, and depending on your A.O. you need to decide which way to go. I'n my A.O., its dri as a bone in winter, and only slightly better in summer, so I have to add moisture to my safes and keep the temps between 40° and 65°deg. In OryGun, the humidity is too high, so a heater and dehumidifier are needed, again, set to maintain the ideal moisture for the wood! Doing this seems to prevent issues with the metals, and dosnt require additional care normally! JMHO!
 
Mine is along the back wall of the safe. Maybe I'll relocate it up to the door frame.

My PEET dryer is at the front left side of my safe door and fastened down with two wood screws. I had to be sure my dryer was far enough inside so my safe door closes all of the way. My dehumidifier keeps my safe at 54% relative humidity so I added an Eva drier as well and it keeps my safes humidity at 47% now. Spring, Summer, and Fall my humidity is like 42%-45% only. This is my first winter with my new safe and I noticed a rise in the humidity.

I have a analog hygrometer and I have a liberty safe monitor as well so it alerts me if the humidity is too high and have it set to 60%.
 
So I just got M14 with a walnut stock and my gun safe is 40% humidity. Do I need to worry about cracking with such a low humidity? If so how can a raise it? This gun safe does not have any electrical outlet so how I put a small dehumidifier that I pull in the an A/C outlet to recharge the pellets.
 
Should be fine @40%
F.Y.I. you should go down to Gilmer hardwoods, while there, ask what they recommed for humidity. They was seal the grain on all their wood, so they don' have to maintain such a precise measurement, plus i5 preserves the wood far longer.:)
 

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