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June 12 (4 hours), had a productive morning in the shop. I finished fitting the beavertail to the trigger so I could install fire control. I ordered a complete fire control set from Cylinder & Slide for this project. I have used individual components from them (and many others) and was impressed with the quality. A good trigger job usually takes me a couple of hours, this one took about 20 minutes. Fantastic parts that literally dropped in with very little tweaking. I usually have to "adjust" the hammer hooks and the sear nose. Not with these parts, they were perfect! So with the time saving I thought I would get started on the barrel fit. I also fit the thumb safety while I was installing the fire control parts. I selected a new product in the market from Novak. Rather than using the typical tennon process for mating the two sides of the ambi-safety the Novak uses a roll pin.
I selected a Kart "xact-fit" 5" barrel with a Wilson/Nowlin ramp for this build. I have never used the Wilson/Nowlin ramp but the theory seems sound. The theory behind the Kart system is that a hobby smith can install a high quality barrel with hand tools. I have used them a few times but usually select a "drop in" barrel. However, there were not many choices in .40 to choose from when I was putting my parts list together. I took more photos of this process hoping it would help anyone thinking about jumping in to one. The first step is to fit the sides of the hood. In the Kart tool set there is a guide jig that is used to hold the barrel square in the slide so you can figure out where to get started. I had to cut some on the right side to get the hood to start into the breach of the slide. Once that is done the length of the hood must be cut to allow the upper lugs to engage (thought I screwed up with a slip of the file here, but everything turned out great). Once that is done a "fitting bushing" is used to begin fitting the barrel with the slide and frame (lower lugs) and the upper lugs. Kart uses an ingenious "fitting pad" to make this easier. I used a blue sharpie again to mark the critical areas (lower lugs, pads and hood). Then the hard part begins, put the frame/slide and barrel together and hand cycle to get contact impressions in the sharpie, file or stone and repeat. I like a very tight initial fit (like a Baer) and this process is laborious. Assemble the gun, cycle (read smack with non-marring hammer) repeatedly, dis-assemble, file, re-mark with sharpie and repeat. I probably went through this process about 30 times or more before I got the result I was looking for.
I selected a Kart "xact-fit" 5" barrel with a Wilson/Nowlin ramp for this build. I have never used the Wilson/Nowlin ramp but the theory seems sound. The theory behind the Kart system is that a hobby smith can install a high quality barrel with hand tools. I have used them a few times but usually select a "drop in" barrel. However, there were not many choices in .40 to choose from when I was putting my parts list together. I took more photos of this process hoping it would help anyone thinking about jumping in to one. The first step is to fit the sides of the hood. In the Kart tool set there is a guide jig that is used to hold the barrel square in the slide so you can figure out where to get started. I had to cut some on the right side to get the hood to start into the breach of the slide. Once that is done the length of the hood must be cut to allow the upper lugs to engage (thought I screwed up with a slip of the file here, but everything turned out great). Once that is done a "fitting bushing" is used to begin fitting the barrel with the slide and frame (lower lugs) and the upper lugs. Kart uses an ingenious "fitting pad" to make this easier. I used a blue sharpie again to mark the critical areas (lower lugs, pads and hood). Then the hard part begins, put the frame/slide and barrel together and hand cycle to get contact impressions in the sharpie, file or stone and repeat. I like a very tight initial fit (like a Baer) and this process is laborious. Assemble the gun, cycle (read smack with non-marring hammer) repeatedly, dis-assemble, file, re-mark with sharpie and repeat. I probably went through this process about 30 times or more before I got the result I was looking for.