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And more towards the people around you! Lol.

I was reading some funny articles about how great having a break is for the user and how hellish it is for those around them.

I can't thank you guy enough. I've been pouring over forums, threads, reviews, etc.
i hate reading ballistic charts and manufacturers info because it can mean nothing in the field.
Real world experience, trial and error can really be the determining factor.

I may stick with my .308 for now, but will probably pick up a 30-06 in the near future.
 
No problems Bud, glad to help out! I remember the first rifle I ever had a break installed on, my Marlin 1896 Lever, took it to Africa as a back up. Naturally our Guide was not a fan of brakes, but having never seen this design, he wanted to give it a try. Half a box of cheap stuff he had later, he was all smiles and gave me the OK on that Rifle. The side blast is pretty nasty, but it was no where near as bad as the blast from an Open Muzzle! That is one of many a person is not going to enjoy being a step or two in front and to the side of!
 
Lots of good guys that will do a quality job threading a barrel. I've been using David out at Brimstone Gunsmithing and his work for me on several of my rifles and handguns has been flawless. Easy to recommend.
 
Somebody on here did this... I think he has been said already. Well worth it for taking recoil off of my shoulder.

Best part is it's timed with no crush washer. Lined up perfect.


Remington 700 SPS in .308. When it's pulled out on the range you would almost think it's much larger of a caliber than it is. 20" barrel with the brake on the end is gnarly.
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Thanks @Dyjital!

Just takes a little math to get those pesky muzzle devices to line up just right so you don't need a crush washer or a peel washer or anything. I honestly can't recall the last time I installed a break with a washer.
 
.308 is a 200 yard elk gun, .30-06 is a 250 yard elk gun. Maybe that should be good enough? Although I have a friend who swears by his .300 RUM... :rolleyes: But yeah, save some money and just try to get closer to the animal.

I thought the 7 Mag had the recoil of a .30-06?

Are you planning on protecting your hearing from the braked .300WM? The thought of shooting something like that without hearing protection just makes me cringe. If you don't have tinnitus yet, I can assure you it is depressing to understand you will hear ringing in your ears until the day you die.

Generally, one doesn't notice the recoil when shooting at an animal. Also target shooting at the bench tends to magnify recoil. Maybe try practicing with field positions rather than at a bench.
 
Has anyone on here taken their bolt rifle and had it threaded for a brake?

I was toasing around the idea of getting a larger caliber bolt gun for hunting and was wanted to see if a smith can thread it for a brake and if anyone has done it, is it worth it?

I'm looking at a 300 win mag.
I have a threaded barrel on one of my .243 rifles and one on the 500 S&W mag barrel. The 500 is a New England Arms single shot. The 243 is a bolt gun.
 
I did a .300 Win Mag. several years ago. I would recommend it strongly for the reduced recoil effect. Hunting? Just take off the brake or whatever and put a cover on the threads! The work was done by an excellent GS and the inventor of a very popular muzzle brake. Sorry, he retired several years ago and no longer lives in the PNW. If and when we get the ok for untaxed hearing protection it will be easy to replace the brake with a suppressor for even more fun shooting.
 
All of you guys who have " breaks", are you willing to sell your broken rifles? For those looking to get a brake, I strongly recommend a Magnabrake or Magnaporting, or both.
 

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