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Has anyone on here taken their bolt rifle and had it threaded for a brake?

I was toasing around the idea of getting a larger caliber bolt gun for hunting and was wanted to see if a smith can thread it for a brake and if anyone has done it, is it worth it?

I'm looking at a 300 win mag.
 
Having the muzzle precision threaded also opens up the potential for a nice can, which is just a muffler for a gun.

Elite Iron I believe does precision threading. Not cheap but done correctly? They also make a can that works.
 
Depending on how much the rifle weighs, a good Break can really cut the kick out of it! I have breaks on several hard kickers, and they really do the job. +1 for Velzey, He does it right!!!
 
I usually recommend the Hollands Quick Discharge muzzle break, made right here in Oregon. They are by far the best at recoil reduction, as you can see in the video. It take the 300 Win mag and makes it feel like shooting a .243 or less.
This was put on a Tikka T3 stainkless, 300 Win mag and I was testing with 250 grain ammo.

 
Has anyone on here taken their bolt rifle and had it threaded for a brake?

I was toasing around the idea of getting a larger caliber bolt gun for hunting and was wanted to see if a smith can thread it for a brake and if anyone has done it, is it worth it?

I'm looking at a 300 win mag.
My friend just put one on his. Actually two friends did this this year. One was a 300wm the other a 300h&h.
Both wish they would have done it years ago.
 
Okay it sounds like the route I'm going.
It was the one thing holding me up from getting a magnum rifle ( I'm a wuss )
But I want a longer range round for elk that will have more power past 400 yards than my .308
 
I've been going back and forth over the caliber.
I was leaning towards the 7mm, then 30-06 because of price and availability.

The 300WM is a compromise. Definelty don't want to go 338 or some odd ball caliber that I will have to reload or pay $5 a round for.
 
I agree 100%, Bimart had 30-06 on sale at $14.97 per 20 rounds Federal and Remington new mfg rounds. I've been able to obtain nice little 1" groups out of a couple rifles with it @ 100 yards.
 
I'm definetly not a long range shooter, but would like something I can effectively knock down an elk at 300-600 yards MAX.
Even that would take a lot of practice.

I figured a 300WM would be a better knock down round at those ranges.
But the box or rounds will be double the price.
 
I can answer some of those questions! Most standard barrels can take threading as is, some like the Weatherby ultra lights may need to be sleeved before threading! Not that big of a deal, and I'm sure Velzey can better explain this! As for Cal. I would recommend the .30/06 before the belted magnums! The 3 are very close in performance over all and the cost off set mitigates most of the slight gains to be found! Unless your hunting situation calls for more then the mighty Aught 6 can preform, I would stay with that round for shear versatility above all! 7 mm has the speed and wind bucking advantages going for it, generally the bullets have a higher coefficient then the .30's and this can open up hunting situations no other can accomplish, BUT cost and recoil go up, and then there is the barrel wear to contend with. At the other end, the Big .300 win mag trade's 20% increase in HorsePower for about a 2% increase in performance! Unless you are shooting at extream ranges, or are looking for very deep penetration on big and oft dangerous game, you trade off serious recoil and cost for very little gaines in normal hunting! ( This is the main reasons I am trading off my .300) The Big .338 mag actually has worthy advantages for Elk and bigger, it's able to toss a bigger pill deeper at normal hunting distances, and cost wise isn't much more then 7 mm mag ( Uses the same brass, Just resized) SO depending on your needs, It's really hard not to like the .30'06 and for that matter, if you were leaning toward the 7 mm, the old .270 win would fill in quite nicely, having nearly the speed and wind bucking advantages of the Magnum, but the cost is way less, and barrel life is much better! I have taken Elk with my .270 many times, and never recovered a bullet! Same with the .30/06! The .300 is a waste until you get bullets up over 200 gr, and then you end up needing a .338 to get the job done! This is all just my experience, Not in any way taken for any thing more then friendly exchange, and worse, starting the great cal debates!
 
If you are looking at off the shelf ammo in the belted magnums the big advantage of the 7mm over the 300 WM is the better bullet coefficient as stated above. That said, the gains are really seen at LONG range, 1,000-1,200 yards iirc. The advantage comes in when the bullet drops back from supersonic to subsonic as you get some instability when that occurs and the 7mm gains you a couple hundred yards with the right pill. at the 600 yard mark I would say the 300 WM or the 30-06 have the advantage poking a slightly bigger hole and a larger availability of 30 cal pills both factory ammo or home rolled.
 
Most standard barrels can be threaded no problem :) even ultra lite barrels I've custom cut a few threads shallow, and then cut internal threads shallow on the break so a pesky sleeve wouldn't need to be made.
 
Some ( cheap ) breaks deflect the gasses towards the users. Making the shot louder.
Well designed breaks deflect the gasses out the sides and up, and less towards the user.
 

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