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Something to consider with muzzle brakes....
They make the firearm LOUD...as a general rule...and unpleasant to shoot next to.
Andy
Very. In our club, shooters with brakes above .308 Win have clear lanes at each side. As you can imagine, on a busy day, with people waiting to shoot, they are about as popular as a fart in an elevator.

I'm happy to admit that, as yet, nobody has even attempted to put a brake in my Whitworth, Sniders, musketoon or Pritchett muzzleloaders..... For me, and many like me, the commotion on firing is what it's all about.

Martini-Henry, but you get the idea.....

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If the gun is primarily utilized as a target rifle or plinker but of heavy recoil (example: 300 WM for ringing steel at long range), I can understand adding anything and everything to tame it (brakes...NOT "breaks"... extra weight, etc.). The people that do this are issuing a tacit admission that their gun kicks too much for them. (If they shoot it "better" with the recoil tamed, their claims of being able to "handle recoil" are perhaps accompanied by locker room braggadocio about testicle size.)

If it is a hunting rifle, any practice or sighting in with the rifle must be done with the rifle configured in EXACTLY the form it will be used (and carried, and shot) in the field. This requirement will extend even to seemingly inconsequential things, like sling attached, no supplemental recoil pad, etc.

The successful big game hunter will gravitate toward a cartridge and rifle that is shot well, often, and entirely comfortably with no superfluous accoutrements to lessen each and every enjoyable experience with it.
 
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Find a slip on butt pad. You can transfer it from rifle to rifle. Being as you're only shooting from the bench the extra length shouldn't be an issue.

As you're loading the ammo, use light bullets.
 
Find a slip on butt pad. You can transfer it from rifle to rifle. Being as you're only shooting from the bench the extra length shouldn't be an issue.

As you're loading the ammo, use light bullets.
In the privacy of my shooting shack, such is referred to as a "Falsie". Past Pads are called "Training Bras". :cool:
 
Here is part of the problem. This is a solid hunk of rubber with zero give. Feels like tire tread rubber. I will use one of my slip on pads temporarily, but I may buy a fancier sand to fit pad later on.


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Two things that will reduce felt recoil are add weight to your gun and use good posture when shooting the big kicking rifles.

With a Tupperware stock, remove the butt pad and put a plastic bag into the recesses. fill these with fine lead shot. seal the bags [ this keeps from making a mess when you remove the butt again.] fill any extra space with foam rubber to keep the shot from moving.
next and most important is when settled at the bench behind the rifle your back and neck should be more or less straight up. if i'm laying forward my neck has to crank up to find the scope. I set my bench rest up on blocks so with my shoulder only slightly forward my neck is aligned. This lets me recoil with the gun and act as a shock absorber. and it puts the butt on a pocket between mussels and off any bones.
This let me shoot a 7mm Mag and 300 Win Mag like it was a 30-06.
Look at the posture of someone shooting a 10 ga shotgun, shoulder slightly forward, neck straight with the spine, and butt tucked into the shoulder pocket.
If adding weight works for you and you want to make it permanent, mix the shot with epoxy glue and pour into every recess including under the barrel. this will also stiffen the stock. if you want less permanent mix the shot with molten wax and pour the recesses full.

Good Luck DR
Thanks for the bag tip. I had some fine sized shot to use. I put a gallon zip lock freezer bag inside the butt stock cavity, then proceeded to dump in 4 1/2 pounds of shot. I topped that off with some high density foam weather stripping, then screwed the rubber butt plate back on. I may run some black duct tape around the seam of butt plate and stock.

The rifle is definitely butt heavy now but once I add weight to the forearm area, I think it will balance out.

This monster should shoot like a 22 by the time I get done with her.

This photo was taken before I added foam.

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Here is the shot, I used.


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It seems to be a common belief that a heavier firearm will have less felt recoil than a lighter firearm, firing the same cartridges.

So let's say a 5lb rifle has 20lbs of recoil.

If you add 5lbs of weight to that rifle, how much less felt recoil do you think it will have?

Has anybody used a lead sled type device that locks on to shooting bench so it won't move at all?

I already own one of these shooting rest and was thinking I could modify it to make a solid shooting platform that wouldn't allow for recoil movement of rifle.


View attachment 2131374


I am interested in other less conventional methods that people have used to lessen felt recoil in heavy recoiling rifles. I want to be comfortable shooting a 100 rounds in a bench session with all my rifles including the 300 Win Mag and 7mm Rem Mag.
How about Changing your stock and besure it has a good pad on it .Suppressor possibly.
 
This guy has OK posture, but if he lowered his seat about two inches, he would not have to drop his head to get inline with the scope. and would help with recoil. Your first video had a guy standing up and shooting. his posture was weight over his toes, shoulder slightly forward, head and neck straight with his spine. you will be surprised at how much that changes things!
I generally shoot with a thin rubber butt pad. the rubber helps keep the butt from moving on the shoulder or sitting in the rack. with good placement and good posture even a steel butt plate is comfortable to shoot. Good Luck DR
 
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Thanks for the bag tip. I had some fine sized shot to use. I put a gallon zip lock freezer bag inside the butt stock cavity, then proceeded to dump in 4 1/2 pounds of shot. I topped that off with some high density foam weather stripping, then screwed the rubber butt plate back on. I may run some black duct tape around the seam of butt plate and stock.

The rifle is definitely butt heavy now but once I add weight to the forearm area, I think it will balance out.

This monster should shoot like a 22 by the time I get done with her.

This photo was taken before I added foam.

View attachment 2131964


Here is the shot, I used.


View attachment 2131965
When I removed the butt pad, I discovered a Styrofoam block stuffed inside the cavity. It was so tightly stuffed in there that I had to break it into pieces to remove it.

The balance isn't actually that bad. If I put two fingers just in front of the trigger guard it will balance. I am still going to add some picatinny rails to the forearm and some more lead shot encased in rockite or epoxy.

I want a sturdy mount behind the sling stud to allow for mounting bipod. I also want another mounting point behind the bipod to mount cable, rope, etc for preloading the bipod like the Canadian guy did. This might not be necessary for the 30-06, but it could come in handy when I start working on 300 win mag.


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This guy has OK posture, but if he lowered his seat about two inches, he would not have to drop his head to get inline with the scope. and would help with recoil. Your first video had a guy standing up and shooting. his posture was weight over his toes, shoulder slightly forward, head and neck straight with his spine. you will be surprised at how much that changes things!
I generally shoot with a thin rubber butt pad. the rubber helps keep the butt from moving on the shoulder or sitting in the rack. with good placement and good posture even a steel butt plate is comfortable to shoot. Good Luck DR
I for sure need to work on shooting posture. My 30-06 was jumping all over the place. It was nowhere near to coming straight back.
 
The wife ordered a 10lb tub of Rockite for $21 and change. When it arrives I will yank the action off the Savage stock and fill the cavities of the forearm with Rockite and more lead shot. I am hoping to gain another pound or two in rifle weight.

I still need to figure out a sturdy method to attach picatinny rails to the underside of forearm.
 
I still need to figure out a sturdy method to attach picatinny rails to the underside of forearm.
Maybe get one like this and drill though the forearm before you add the shot, put the nuts inside and the Rockite will make sure they don't come loose

 
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