I had to get rid of my Colt because of this exact same malfunction... not because it happened once or twice, but because it was happening every other round regardless of magazine or ammo used.
glad you got it taken care of.
this is a mag issue..
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I had to get rid of my Colt because of this exact same malfunction... not because it happened once or twice, but because it was happening every other round regardless of magazine or ammo used.
glad you got it taken care of.
Be careful when slamming any stock from an AR-15 platform on a hard surface. The free-floating firing pin has a way of find the primer of a live round when this happens...I've seen it firsthand, twice.
Only do this if you are getting shot at and you need to clear this malfunction ASAP.
You can fix this on the range without tools too. Collapse the stock. Pull rearward on the charging handle and mortar the gun straight down into the ground while keeping pressure on the charging handle. Do it until you feel the charging handle move, even just a little. Keep pressure on the charging handle, reach in to the ejection port and put pressure on the bolt to keep it in place. Chop the charging handle forward while keeping the bolt in the place with your other hand and the stuck casing should come loose.
I highlighted the important part for you. I just broke my SOPMOD last weekend doing this because my mortar tube was angled towards the enemy.
Mine was a stuck casing that the extractor ripped the rim off on the 4th try though. I was at 350 rounds when it just locked up solid. Didn't have a cleaning rod with me (its now in my chest harness!) so was done for the day.
Went back out a few days later and shot another 200 without incident. Ammo was Wolf 62gr in LMT upper. Badly sized casing is my guess.
Never seen it happen, but thinking about it, it's possible like you said. I've watch pros like Travis Haley use this method in my Carbine class for one student's AR.
When I do it I try to hold the bolt back as I slam it back. Do you know if it happen by just slamming the stock without holding the charging handle back?
I wonder how much a Ti firing pin would remove the risk and why they are not standard?
this is a mag issue..
apparently not
I used every one of my 30 mags. Many different manufacturers ranging from L5 translucent mags, magpul mags, steel mags with magpul followers, colt magazines, betamags, and hk magazines.
The issue was persistent with all of these mags.
I use these same magazines with my functionally flawless DPMS ar15.
I also used many differnt kinds of ammo. I used S&B, PMC, Federal, Wolf, Winchester, Fiocchi, Hornady, and a few other brands I cant remember off the top of my head.
The problem was with the rifle.
what did colt say?
Wouldn't the type of primer make a difference?
I typically run CCI #41 primers which take more of a wack to set it off than a CCI #400.
Riot,
I wonder how much a Ti firing pin would remove the risk and why they are not standard?
You guys are way overstating the issue of the floating firing pin of the AR. The way the bolt moves around in the carrier, and the fact that the firing pin cannot even be engaged until the bolt fully cams closed makes the floating issue nearly moot. If this was really that serious an issue it likely would have been addressed on every design which uses this system. The number 1 issue when it comes to slam fires is typically related to the primer sticking too far out the back end of the case and is usually only an issue with badly reloaded ammo.
It takes about 17 in/lbs of force over a few milliseconds to set off a primer, which is the reason you can crush a primer in a reloading press 9 times out of 10 without it going off (I'm sure in that tenth time there is something which causes a slip in the force curve).
However, I think I've had a stranger malfunction... one time I got a blown primer, which blew up, and managed to get jammed in the carrier key. Pretty much the gun just stopped behaving normally, about every other round would cycle. I thought it was dirty and went to clean it, when I tried to jam a pipe cleaner down the key it wouldn't go through, inspection with a flashlight revealed a complete primer (cup and anvil) wedged into the bottom of the key.