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A Smith & Wesson model 19 that the bastards at Century Arms sullied with graffiti

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Blog post links with more detail

TINCANBANDIT's Gunsmithing: Another S&W model 19 Refinishing Project Part 1

TINCANBANDIT's Gunsmithing: Another S&W model 19 Refinishing Project Part 2
 
Nice. Missing one piece of vital info for me.
What did you use for bluing? I'm gonna do an Iver Johnson .38 S&W project. Got some rust blue from Brownells.
I'm open if there is another way. Hot dipping is said to be a no no with revolvers, so no mad scientist method I've seen for autos.:s0021:
 
Nice. Missing one piece of vital info for me.
What did you use for bluing? I'm gonna do an Iver Johnson .38 S&W project. Got some rust blue from Brownells.
I'm open if there is another way. Hot dipping is said to be a no no with revolvers, so no mad scientist method I've seen for autos.:s0021:
Is it? Maybe prep it round the forcing cone etc?
 
Nice. Missing one piece of vital info for me.
What did you use for bluing? I'm gonna do an Iver Johnson .38 S&W project. Got some rust blue from Brownells.
I'm open if there is another way. Hot dipping is said to be a no no with revolvers, so no mad scientist method I've seen for autos.:s0021:


not sure where you got that info, all revolvers since WWI have been blued using the hot caustic/salts method. This is how I blue all my guns. I mix the salts (Sodium Hydroxide and Sodium Nitrate) at a 2 to 1 ratio add filtered water and heat to 290 +/- degrees, clean gun parts thoroughly and soak boiling solution for about 20 min or so.

I rarely get pictures of the process as I am wearing PPE and running from tank to tank (bluing more than one gun at a time)
 
What I've read is if you hot blue a revolver, it can/does take the temper out of the metal. Weakens them significantly.


ah that would be a big negative. #1 most modern guns are not heat treated the way they were in the old days, they get their strength from the alloy in the steel.
#2 you would need to heat up the metal a LOT hotter than 300 degrees to anneal the steel.
 
Nice job on the refinish. I like the more subdued color on the smaller grips. Looks nice and isn't likely a real hindrance in shooting the gun.


Although a Tyler T-grip adapter would look right at home on it, too.
 
ah that would be a big negative. #1 most modern guns are not heat treated the way they were in the old days, they get their strength from the alloy in the steel.
#2 you would need to heat up the metal a LOT hotter than 300 degrees to anneal the steel.
I agree with that.
The bluing I've seen done for home projects used potassium nitrate and needed to be heated to close to 600*.
I'd like a product that is somewhat affordable for an occasion dip for a single gun. Sounds like you have a formula that may be in my wheelhouse!
 
The bluing bgdawgrr is talking about is called "nitre bluing", which is really a hardening process, it can also be done with a torch. The resulting color has to do with what color the steel was heated to before quenching. At 600 degrees you get an electric or peacock blue. Similar to what you see on chromed headers on hot rods or street bikes.

If you go to this blog post, it talks about the different finishes on guns

TINCANBANDIT's Gunsmithing: A lesson in refinishing
 

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