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Umm... yeah, I think it was I that said it:p.

I love my LNL, and it's hard to believe that I would like a Dillon better. However, since the opportunity to get a 650 presented itself, and I am an engineer by profession which leads me to want to do my own research, I couldn't help but get a Dillon to do my own side by side comparison. Who knows.... I may even make my own video to compare the two products :p:rolleyes:
 
Umm... yeah, I think it was I that said it:p.

I love my LNL, and it's hard to believe that I would like a Dillon better. However, since the opportunity to get a 650 presented itself, and I am an engineer by profession which leads me to want to do my own research, I couldn't help but get a Dillon to do my own side by side comparison. Who knows.... I may even make my own video to compare the two products :p:rolleyes:
It will be interesting to get your take on the Blue contestant.

From what I'm gathering, the Dillon is a little more "turn-key" while the Hornady requires a little more tuning, but is a more evolved design.
 
One thing I will say about the Dillon is that there are many little aftermarket upgrades to help the xl650. For whatever reason Dillon doesn't provide any of them from the factory which is silly to me.

One common complaint is that guys with sausage fingers can't get the brass inserts out of place to remove the cases from stations 3-5. Dillon already makes great little tabs for the 1050 but doesn't use them on the 650. Or the phenolic detent ball for under the shellplate rather than the stainless steel one they use. This helps the shell plate jumping into position and spilling powder. I agree that the price you pay for a Dillon you shouldn't have to upgrade anything but both of these can be purchased for under $12 on eBay.
 
One thing I will say about the Dillon is that there are many little aftermarket upgrades to help the xl650.
Keep in mind that the Dillon has a 25 (+/-) year head start on the Hornady, so the aftermarket goodies have had more time to develop.

For whatever reason Dillon doesn't provide any of them from the factory which is silly to me.
The bean counters have to keep the price point under control so they have to draw a line somewhere.
Seems that both companies have added design improvements where they can.

One common complaint is that guys with sausage fingers can't get the brass inserts out of place to remove the cases from stations 3-5. Dillon already makes great little tabs for the 1050 but doesn't use them on the 650. Or the phenolic detent ball for under the shellplate rather than the stainless steel one they use. This helps the shell plate jumping into position and spilling powder. I agree that the price you pay for a Dillon you shouldn't have to upgrade anything but both of these can be purchased for under $12 on eBay.
The spring case retainer I think is one of design advantages that the Hornady has.
 
The spring case retainer I think is one of design advantages that the Hornady has.

When I run the LNL I don't really find it any more/less helpful but then again I never had a problem getting the brass inserts out of the 650 and added the tabs for less than $5 and made it easier. The only way I can come up with a negative is that the spring could actually wear out or get snagged on something where the brass inserts on the 650 shouldn't ever wear out.

Personally I think it's time for Dillon to come out with something new. I'm sure it's not high on their list after Mike Dillons passing but there are many improvements to be made for an offordable press. If money were no object I'd have a 1050 in every caliber because that thing just runs. Would be nice to have a more reliable primer feed and maybe even another spot on the toolhead but keep an easy to convert machine like to 550/650.
 
One thing I will say about the Dillon is that there are many little aftermarket upgrades to help the xl650. For whatever reason Dillon doesn't provide any of them from the factory which is silly to me.

One common complaint is that guys with sausage fingers can't get the brass inserts out of place to remove the cases from stations 3-5. Dillon already makes great little tabs for the 1050 but doesn't use them on the 650. Or the phenolic detent ball for under the shellplate rather than the stainless steel one they use. This helps the shell plate jumping into position and spilling powder. I agree that the price you pay for a Dillon you shouldn't have to upgrade anything but both of these can be purchased for under $12 on eBay.

That 3/8" detent ball is common to most all progressives, and because I have several different colored progressives I bought these:
3/8" Polypropylene Ball Grade 2 Solid Plastic Sphere J32008 | eBay
That, and a piece of spring I bought from a local hardware store, is what I use.
:D
 
This is like North vs South yammering.
The cool guys use LEE.
Why is that?
Just because you can buy a complete Pro 1000 with dies/pm/etc. in any caliber for $178 shipped to your door in 2 days...is no reason not to buy red or blue.
Some "change over kits" cost that much:eek:.
Funny thing is Lee promotion of everyone needing a "factory crimp die" killed the sales on the 3 station Pro 1000
:D
 
When I run the LNL I don't really find it any more/less helpful but then again I never had a problem getting the brass inserts out of the 650 and added the tabs for less than $5 and made it easier.
When I watch Gavin or Jim dial in a powder charge (repeated [quick] R&R of a shell case).....you couldn't do that with the pin retainer.

Personally I think it's time for Dillon to come out with something new. I'm sure it's not high on their list after Mike Dillons passing but there are many improvements to be made for an offordable press. If money were no object I'd have a 1050 in every caliber because that thing just runs. Would be nice to have a more reliable primer feed and maybe even another spot on the toolhead but keep an easy to convert machine like to 550/650.
When they designed the LNL AP you know that they had an XL 650 in the War Room and the team leader said....
"Ladies and gentlemen, I want something as good or preferably better than this and at a lower price point."
 
This is like North vs South yammering.
MW-BA423_smneig_20130315152741_MG.jpg
 
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One thing I will say about the Dillon is that there are many little aftermarket upgrades to help the xl650. For whatever reason Dillon doesn't provide any of them from the factory which is silly to me.

One common complaint is that guys with sausage fingers can't get the brass inserts out of place to remove the cases from stations 3-5. Dillon already makes great little tabs for the 1050 but doesn't use them on the 650. Or the phenolic detent ball for under the shellplate rather than the stainless steel one they use. This helps the shell plate jumping into position and spilling powder. I agree that the price you pay for a Dillon you shouldn't have to upgrade anything but both of these can be purchased for under $12 on eBay.

The kit solved the problem on my Pro 2000.
 
Does anyone no of a Dillion dealer in the Portland metro area, or do you just buy them online. I'd like to see one. I'm wanting to get into reloading and have seen the lock and load but no Dillion presses on anyone's shelves. Any help is appreciated.
 
Does anyone no of a Dillion dealer in the Portland metro area, or do you just buy them online. I'd like to see one. I'm wanting to get into reloading and have seen the lock and load but no Dillion presses on anyone's shelves. Any help is appreciated.

You might try @mgd . I believe that he either is or has dealer connections although I don't know if he has one sitting "on a shelf" to play with. Best bet on that I think is to find a member local to you who has one and would demonstrate it for you. Most guys like to show off their toys :D
 
You might try @mgd . I believe that he either is or has dealer connections although I don't know if he has one sitting "on a shelf" to play with. Best bet on that I think is to find a member local to you who has one and would demonstrate it for you. Most guys like to show off their toys :D
Awesome thank you. I've kind of been hoping that someone would be willing to show me their set up with a Dillon. I'm thinking of trying to find a intro to reloading class or someone that has some time to introduce me to reloading. I just plan on starting off with 9mm and 40 then working up to 223 and 308 after I get more comfortable. I've kind of read that people recommend to start off on a single stage then go to progressive. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined and good at paying attention to what I'm doing. I also am a hands on learner. I'd rather learn from a person than read it in a book.
 
You are wise to try and learn from someone who knows what they're doing as there are little tricks you learn a long the way. I HIGHLY recommend starting with a single stage before trying to learn a progressive system. Once you get the basics down then you just have to learn the mechanics of the progressive system. Trying to learn both at the same time intimidates most everyone who tries it and they end up giving up. I just bought a 650 press because the gentleman who I initially bought it found it too complicated to use and sold it.
 
You are wise to try and learn from someone who knows what they're doing as there are little tricks you learn a long the way. I HIGHLY recommend starting with a single stage before trying to learn a progressive system. Once you get the basics down then you just have to learn the mechanics of the progressive system. Trying to learn both at the same time intimidates most everyone who tries it and they end up giving up. I just bought a 650 press because the gentleman who I initially bought it found it too complicated to use and sold it.
I agree. If you're brand new to reloading, start with a single stage press.
I know what you mean about learning hands on, but you really need to grab a beginners reloading book such as the ABCs of reloading and go through it. It's a fun hobby and very rewarding, but also one that can kill or maim you if you're not paying attention or don't know fully what you are doing.
 

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