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I'm looking to do some "experimenting" (translated...... "Hot Rodding") some loads. Mainly 9mm and 45ACP.

How much tougher are nickel plated shells than the standard brass shells?

For the "long time reloaders" out there, is it safe to assume that I can load nickel plated shells into the +P ranges, and possibly more without worrying if my shells will split and "blow apart" on me?

Trying to figure out how much tougher are the nickel plated shells than the typical brass shells.

Any insight to nickel plated vs. brass shells is appreciated.
 
They don't last as long as brass and in some calibers they split after just a few reloads - specifically straight walled styles such as .357 - .44 etc.

I haven't loaded enough nickle in SA calibers to see any splits but I suspect they will as well with a few 'hot' loads.
 
They are harder, metallurgy wise, therefore not as durable and prone to splitting. They are mostly for looks and they reflect better in low light, which to some can be important. Otherwise, they don't really do anything better.
 
After doing some thinking, brand new Nickel plated brass might withstand higher pressures the first time but they aren't made to do that. You put your money down and take your chances. After that the work hardening starts and all bets are off. You can get the stronger +P brass from Starline for both the 9mm and 45 acp.
 
How much tougher are nickel plated shells than the standard brass shells?
well ain't that a loaded question???

However 'tough' they may be, they are more brittle and do not last as many reloads even at modest Cowboy Action loads. I found this out over about 15 years of reloading a LOT of 45LC and 38 special.

It got to where my only use was as default Holy Black loads as I could identify what the loads were by being in the nickle plated shells.
 
I'm looking to do some "experimenting" (translated...... "Hot Rodding") some loads. Mainly 9mm and 45ACP.

How much tougher are nickel plated shells than the standard brass shells?

For the "long time reloaders" out there, is it safe to assume that I can load nickel plated shells into the +P ranges, and possibly more without worrying if my shells will split and "blow apart" on me?

Trying to figure out how much tougher are the nickel plated shells than the typical brass shells.

Any insight to nickel plated vs. brass shells is appreciated.
I reloaded a few thousand nickel 45ACP, and they are harder cases! They were bought as once-fired, by the feds through a reseller, and a few really were cracked but not the +P head stamped cases. They were all fine.

If you are loading to +P, then spend the money and get +P head stamped cases…be safe out there.
 
Regular brass is going to be more durable, as has been stated. If you're going to hot rod these loads, pushing the limits/envelope, it might be prudent to invest in some +P brass from Starline, as has already been suggested.

It's a small price to keep you and your pistols safer
 
re: "split cases" and "blown apart"

The biggest issue I've had with 'split cases' is if it deformed enough to jam up the old 1873 lever gun. Most usually they'd fire no issue really, in a SA revolver, maybe taking a bit more attention to the extractor rod function.
Don't know what regular/+P pressures would do.

A few times I was startled to find an otherwise inspected/loaded nickle case would actually split IN the seating of the boolit. These cases had all be reloaded many many times. I could bet, out of an average match of 120-150 rounds, in my multiple reloaded 45LC brass, if "5" split per match, 3 or 4 would be nickle plated.
 
Meh. I have a few in the rotating pile. They're a designer color. I give it next to no thought as it seems most SD loads, in all flavors and pressures come in nickel these days. And "premium" hunting rounds.....
 
I'm looking to do some "experimenting" (translated...... "Hot Rodding") some loads. Mainly 9mm and 45ACP.

How much tougher are nickel plated shells than the standard brass shells?

For the "long time reloaders" out there, is it safe to assume that I can load nickel plated shells into the +P ranges, and possibly more without worrying if my shells will split and "blow apart" on me?

Trying to figure out how much tougher are the nickel plated shells than the typical brass shells.

Any insight to nickel plated vs. brass shells is appreciated.
if you want to hot loading 9mm you should look at Shell Shock. These non brass cases are stronger than any other available.
For 45 caliber look into the 460 Rolend.
 
Every thing that's been said already sounds right to me. I would say, that what ever the case material is when that primer goes off that case expands as far as it can expand. Did people get one firing out of those polymer cases that came out for awhile? Seems that how tight the chamber is has more to do with case material longevity than what the material may be. I have some nickel .40 cases that have, maybe, three loadings on them and are still in the queue.
 
My understanding is that they don't tarnish as easily as non-coated brass and are better suited for use in guns that may sit loaded and unfired for long periods of time. I've seen more of 9mm at the range with split case mouths than regular brass but that's just an observation.
 
They don't last as long as brass and in some calibers they split after just a few reloads - specifically straight walled styles such as .357 - .44 etc.

I haven't loaded enough nickle in SA calibers to see any splits but I suspect they will as well with a few 'hot' loads.
That's odd. Back in 2002, when I bought my Franken Ruger Super Redhawk in .357Mag*, I was doned 500 nickel cases. After a LOT of reloading - remembering that I only shoot 158gr FN lead bullets over 6.5gr of Bullseye, I find that I now have just 494 left....

I put it down to gentle loads, but most people I talk to here seem to want loads that temporarily alter the fabric of Space-Time.
 
I put it down to gentle loads
This makes sense and after thinking about it the most splits I recall having with nickle cases was when I was loading full house .357 Mag rounds for my then Winchester Trapper which preferred higher end loads.

I don't remember near as many when loading .357 for pistols (which are considerably milder) or when using nickle cases for .38 Special.

FWIW however the most splits I have ever experienced was only recently with some S & B brass with mild .357 rounds. I had an epidemic of them !
 
Nickel plating adds NO strength to brass.

Its purpose is for anti-corrosion (such as occurs over time in a leather cartridge belt, where un-plated brass can accumulate "verdigris": green surface corrosion). Hence its popularity when police carried ammunition that way.

In bottleneck high power cartridges, its purpose is similar. I have sought out plated brass for Alaska trips, toward corrosion concerns. I have also purposefully sought it out as a method to differentiate loads of the same caliber for different guns. (Bolt gun loads may be hotter than same-caliber loads for a lever gun: the nickel is an indicator to avoid mixups.)

I have noted (as others here), an increased propensity in nickel plated straight walled pistol brass for case splitting. I have noted NO difference in case life or splitting in nickel high power brass.

Another detriment is toward case modification (as in necking down, case forming for wildcats, and such): The nickel plating is an obstacle toward proper case annealing : a necessary operation for serious case modification.
 

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