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OK, guys, I've done about all the drilling by hand that my hand will let me, and I need some advice.

Specifically, I need a recommendation for a cordless drill to put a 3/8" hole through a 1.25" block of 7075-T6 aluminum, or a 1/2" one through various plastics. (I know, conventional answer is "get a drill press," but that's not exactly an option while I'm holed up in an apartment as I work on moving things out of one house and into a storage locker or the other.) Something that can handle being run for a while at a time chewing on things, must have at least a 1/2" chuck. I know Black & Decker fails after trying to put two 1/2" holes in 1/8 cold-roll steel angle-iron, so they're out. Porter-Cable, DeWalt, Craftsman and Home Depot's Husky line are all Stanley products right alongside B&D and probably use the same parts and engineering. Matco and Snap-On are butthole-puckering out-of-budget... I'd like to spend less than $200 on this, below $150 better, below $100 preferred, but not knowing what the norms are for tool prices and quality, though I also know that Harbor Freight/Chicago Electric has a strong rep for rather underwhelming quality.

Anybody out there have any loves or hates from your experience that might help me find the right drill for my purposes?
 
I love Makita long time!
+1 for Makita cordless drivers. I have a couple and they are as tough as they come!
Pro Tip; Spend the extra coin and get a Jakobs Keyless chuck in 1/2 in for your drill. They run a lot smoother and true, and they have a ratchet lock that gets tight with out stripping and galling bits! The 9.6 volt version will drill for quite a while and is very light and well balanced, the 18.1 volt Lithium Ion brushless is the most powerful cordless drill you can get currently, and the battery life is awesome!
 
For the aluminum, get a corded, <$130.00:
Milwaukee 1/2 in. 850 RPM Magnum Drill-0300-20 - The Home Depot

Plastic? Pretty much anything will do, just remember to keep the speed down. Speed makes heat, and heat makes for sloppy holes in plastic, and cracks in fiberglass and other laminates.

Oh, and pilot holes & sharp bits are your friend. I never met anyone that didn't find their drills worked SO much better, after they learned to properly sharpen their bits.
 
I love Makita long time!
Yeah, there's a Makita at the "old" house (the one we're moving into)... the problem is my grandfather's old workshop is falling apart so I can't safely GET to it, but for most of my life the thing's been able to do anything my family's asked of it. :(

@Jamie6.5 I daresay I wouldn't have punched the selector hole all the way through solid poly lower by hand without a 1/4" pilot before the 3/8" mainbore... :) (I'm doing a drill-then-mill approach which will hopefully mean less deburring, at the cost of having to go through the whole blank.)
 
'Fraid not, JB. Even if I did, it's a safe bet the neighbors would go BLG about noise... funny, they complain about my mother's snoring and then stomp around like elephants on the next floor, or practice their WWE bodyslams into the wee hours.
 
For the aluminum, get a corded, <$130.00:
Milwaukee 1/2 in. 850 RPM Magnum Drill-0300-20 - The Home Depot

Plastic? Pretty much anything will do, just remember to keep the speed down. Speed makes heat, and heat makes for sloppy holes in plastic, and cracks in fiberglass and other laminates.

Oh, and pilot holes & sharp bits are your friend. I never met anyone that didn't find their drills worked SO much better, after they learned to properly sharpen their bits.

I'd go with a corded drill as well.

I have a 25 year old 1/2" craftsman that chews holes in everything I've used it for...

Was an electrician and helped build a metal shop with it and it's done it all.

Cordless stuff is nice for portability but with a short 10ga extension cord you can use a corded tool just as easily with tons more power.
 
Jamie is on the money! I have one of those Milwaukies and it's more powerful than you are! (whoever you are).
There are some jobs that I actually use my 1/2" air drill for because if the bit bites hard, the air drill won't try to turn my arms into a pretzel. That's the bestest, most powerful electric drill I've ever used.
 
Jamie is on the money! I have one of those Milwaukies and it's more powerful than you are! (whoever you are).
There are some jobs that I actually use my 1/2" air drill for because if the bit bites hard, the air drill won't try to turn my arms into a pretzel. That's the bestest, most powerful electric drill I've ever used.
Everyone I ever met that bought their 1st one, took the side grip off and tossed it in their toolbox at first.
But once a 3/8-1/2" bit grabbed, and they sprained their wrist, that second handle came back outta the toolbox and got re-attached to the drill.
Torquey l'il buggers they are!
 
I think a corded drill is always best. But only if it has a break on it. Not sure if they call it that. Dang wrist breakers if not.
I've been a dewalt guy, but I've heard makita is a lot better.
 
My cordless are also Milwaukie. Nothing wrong with DeWalt or Makita, but I prefer Milwaukie.
What Oregonhunter5 (from Idaho?:D) is talking about is a torque limiter. Great for lighter duty stuff, but would be a mistake on a 1/2" drive electric drill, in my opinion.
 
My cordless are also Milwaukie. Nothing wrong with DeWalt or Makita, but I prefer Milwaukie.
What Oregonhunter5 (from Idaho?:D) is talking about is a torque limiter. Great for lighter duty stuff, but would be a mistake on a 1/2" drive electric drill, in my opinion.
Hanging on to those bastard drills when you know there gonna grab is like hey, grab that 110 wire. I'm a pretty strong man, but not that strong!! Lol
 
I don't think I've ever seen a 1/2" handheld drill with a clutch on it.
A 3/8" yes, we had a Milwaukee Magnum Screw Shooter that had a 3/8 chuck and a torque clutch.

That sucker would drive decking screws like nothing else!
 

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