Prepping cases for 40 Smith & Wesson

[Caveman Jim]

Yes, but dribble it in gradually and give it a few minutes to mix in. If you add too fast you may get cases or primer pockets packed. Not a big deal but an annoyance. Nu-finish works great all right.

I

Depends on how shiny you want. I have found that just using the walnut works great for me even with the rouge in it.

All I have used so far is the CC media, what size do you use coarse med or fine? Harbor freight has it in bulk.

 

[OreShooter]

Depends on how shiny you want. I have found that just using the walnut works great for me even with the rouge in it.

Yes, the walnut works great. I use the Nu-finish for when I intend to store the ammo or brass. It seals the brass and keeps the tarnish from coming back too soon.

 

[FordPrefect]

I


All I have used so far is the CC media, what size do you use coarse med or fine? Harbor freight has it in bulk.

I'm not sure what size mine is. I just bought the jug of Lyman's walnut from Cabala's.

 

[OreShooter]

I


All I have used so far is the CC media, what size do you use coarse med or fine? Harbor freight has it in bulk.

I have used all different grits. Doesn't seem to matter too much. Use a coarse one to get all the range grit off first, then pour it out into a bucket and put in some fine for a final polish if you really like to see your face in it. It doesn't seem to matter what grit you use however, you are going to have a few cases with a chunk of media in a flash hole. On my progressive, that means the first station has a Lee universal decapping die in it.

 

[41mag]

I never have stuff in the flash hole as my blue press routine puts all case operations after the 'cleaning' phase.

While I've long preferred the coarse walnut shell for rapid/effective results in a Turbo, if this dog ever wears out I'd be on the steel-pins-and-water method for sure. I bought this Turbo about 1980, as I couldn't afford the one I wanted, believing it would wear out soon & I'd step up into my 'real' choice. So far still waiting. Someday I'll get the pin/water combo as it makes brass the way I like to see it. So does Turbo/walnut shell, just takes longer.

For polish I use either the Dillon blue gunk or the Franklin which smells better.

Loading 40 S&W cases is a good beginner pistol case without a lot of complications. Beware of the 'every dimension has to be exact' trap as you will NEVER get anything loaded. If you have a watch, you know the time. If you have 2 watches, you will know '2 times'....

IMHO all you need is the case gauge/standard specs/plunk test/magazine fit OAL/does it WORK in my pistol. Calipers help, your rifle loads probably demanded you get a decent set already.

Cheers on your new reloading adventure.

 

[BT BT]

Well howdy to the reloading community and great wealth of knowledge.
I started reloading earlier this year and have gained much knowledgeable experience prepping close to 800 cases for my AR.

My next project is reloading for my handgun in 40 Smith & Wesson.
I've looked at the information and specifications for this case, which through the saami PDF states that the head space dimensions of the case should be between .850-.010.
Now these numbers don't jibe with the actual size of once fired cases from my XDM40'S which are .832-.836 before resizing. After resized the test cases read from .838-.844.

I am cornfused at the difference of actual numbers & the minimum of saami specks, did I miss something there?...... need a little help here.
As always, any help is surely appreciated.

Prepping cases for 40 Smith & Wesson:

Good stuff from Caveman Jim for all straight wall pistol cases originally designed for pistols.

I would like to add to the Caveman's notes for the 40 S&W, and expand them to the common attributes for most of the other 'Straight Wall Pistol Cartridges'. Before we start I must establish a baseline fact and assumption: As with any firearm, the pistol must be verified, not the shooter. Almost all pistols will out group (shoot) the shooter, assuming a Good Barrel & Crown, Tight Sights, Tight Slide to Barrel, and Consistent Ammunition shot from a steady rest at a range no further than 50 feet.

Specifically common to all 'Straight' wall pistol cartridges:

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR REVOLVERS:

These cases are 99.9% 'Straight' Outside Diameter cases and are typically rimmed including 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 45 Colt, 454 Casull, 460 S&W Magnum and 480 Ruger to note a few. However an exception would be the 500 S&W released in 2003 as the King Of The Hill with a straight case. I can tell you why the exception if you would like to know?

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR SMALL ACP:

These Small ACP cases are also 'Straight' Outside Diameter cases including 25ACP, 32 ACP, 380 ACP, 380 Super Auto and the 380 Makarov. (NOT the 9mm Lugar/Parabellum/9x19mm, these have a .391 base to mouth .380 case taper). I can tell you why the exception if you would like to know?

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR LARGE ACP:

These Large ACP cases (40 caliber and above) are also called 'Straight' Outside Diameter cases yet actually the 40 S&W has a + .001 to .002 larger base than the mouth, even more notable are the 45 caliber and above calibers due to the need for thicker case wall and taper to promote the additional strength needed to both hold the bullet longer and reduce base wall blowout. For example: The 45 ACP and 45 GAP has a +.003 taper, 45 Auto Rim has a +.004 taper, and the 50 AE has a significant .014 taper from the base to the mouth. I can tell you why the exception if you would like to know?

The best tool to have for serious pistol shooters that reload for accuracy, is to have a sizing die made to fit the chamber in your 'Target Quality' pistol. How do you know what sizer you have is wrong, look at the outside of the case for dark discolorations resulting from pressure blow-back meaning your sizer die is too small for your chamber or your barrel chamber is oversized to your sizer die. Brownells will help match barrel chambers and sizing dies, RCBS may or may not still offer to make sizer dies based on your sample fired cases. Be aware, if your barrel is bad, don't waste your time getting a new sizer die, and remember your gun is most likely out shooting you the shooter.

PS: I you do not have a pressure/torque meter on your press or a fixed seat/crimp system none of your best efforts will solve this major inconsistency.

 

[BT BT]

+1 to @v0lcom13sn0w's comment.

1. Inspect all your cases carefully and cull out the ones with any sort of bulge; 10¢ is nothing compared to case rupture;
   
2. Resize;
3. Prime;
4. Go as light on the case mouth flare as possible;
5. If you don't have a powder cop, watch your powder drop (don't drink or watch TV). In thousands of reloads, I've had one squibb and no double charges (caught all those);
6. Finesse the crimp. Too much will crunch your case, too little and you can move the bullet in the reloaded round;
7. Plunk test & micrometer a bunch per hundred. Quality control is your friend.

Welcome aboard, CJ !

[edit to add, I have never trimmed a single pistol case - throw 'em out!]

Prepping cases for 40 Smith & Wesson:

Good stuff from Caveman Jim for all straight wall pistol cases originally designed for pistols.

I would like to add to the Caveman's notes for the 40 S&W, and expand them to the common attributes for most of the other 'Straight Wall Pistol Cartridges'. Before we start I must establish a baseline fact and assumption: As with any firearm, the pistol must be verified, not the shooter. Almost all pistols will out group (shoot) the shooter, assuming a Good Barrel & Crown, Tight Sights, Tight Slide to Barrel, and Consistent Ammunition shot from a steady rest at a range no further than 50 feet.

Specifically common to all 'Straight' wall pistol cartridges:

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR REVOLVERS:

These cases are 99.9% 'Straight' Outside Diameter cases and are typically rimmed including 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 45 Colt, 454 Casull, 460 S&W Magnum and 480 Ruger to note a few. However an exception would be the 500 S&W released in 2003 as the King Of The Hill with a straight case. I can tell you why the exception if you would like to know?

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR SMALL ACP:

These Small ACP cases are also 'Straight' Outside Diameter cases including 25ACP, 32 ACP, 380 ACP, 380 Super Auto and the 380 Makarov. (NOT the 9mm Lugar/Parabellum/9x19mm, these have a .391 base to mouth .380 case taper). I can tell you why the exception if you would like to know?

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR LARGE ACP:

These Large ACP cases (40 caliber and above) are also called 'Straight' Outside Diameter cases yet actually the 40 S&W has a + .001 to .002 larger base than the mouth, even more notable are the 45 caliber and above calibers due to the need for thicker case wall and taper to promote the additional strength needed to both hold the bullet longer and reduce base wall blowout. For example: The 45 ACP and 45 GAP has a +.003 taper, 45 Auto Rim has a +.004 taper, and the 50 AE has a significant .014 taper from the base to the mouth. I can tell you why the exception if you would like to know?

The best tool to have for serious pistol shooters that reload for accuracy, is to have a sizing die made to fit the chamber in your 'Target Quality' pistol. How do you know what sizer you have is wrong, look at the outside of the case for dark discolorations resulting from pressure blow-back meaning your sizer die is too small for your chamber or your barrel chamber is oversized to your sizer die. Brownells will help match barrel chambers and sizing dies, RCBS may or may not still offer to make sizer dies based on your sample fired cases. Be aware, if your barrel is bad, don't waste your time getting a new sizer die, and remember your gun is most likely out shooting you the shooter.

PS: I you do not have a pressure/torque meter on your press or a fixed seat/crimp system none of your best efforts will solve this major inconsistency.

 

[BT BT]

Have been reloading 40's since the early 90;s probably 2m rounds or more. Just size them and prime them. After 4/5 time the primer pockets can get loose cases split. I load just under the max for plinking. Never had a problem ..

Prepping cases for 40 Smith & Wesson:

Good stuff from Caveman Jim for all straight wall pistol cases originally designed for pistols.

I would like to add to the Caveman's notes for the 40 S&W, and expand them to the common attributes for most of the other 'Straight Wall Pistol Cartridges'. Before we start I must establish a baseline fact and assumption: As with any firearm, the pistol must be verified, not the shooter. Almost all pistols will out group (shoot) the shooter, assuming a Good Barrel & Crown, Tight Sights, Tight Slide to Barrel, and Consistent Ammunition shot from a steady rest at a range no further than 50 feet.

Specifically common to all 'Straight' wall pistol cartridges:

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR REVOLVERS:

These cases are 99.9% 'Straight' Outside Diameter cases and are typically rimmed including 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 45 Colt, 454 Casull, 460 S&W Magnum and 480 Ruger to note a few. However an exception would be the 500 S&W released in 2003 as the King Of The Hill with a straight case. I can tell you why the exception if you would like to know?

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR SMALL ACP:

These Small ACP cases are also 'Straight' Outside Diameter cases including 25ACP, 32 ACP, 380 ACP, 380 Super Auto and the 380 Makarov. (NOT the 9mm Lugar/Parabellum/9x19mm, these have a .391 base to mouth .380 case taper). I can tell you why the exception if you would like to know?

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR LARGE ACP:

These Large ACP cases (40 caliber and above) are also called 'Straight' Outside Diameter cases yet actually the 40 S&W has a + .001 to .002 larger base than the mouth, even more notable are the 45 caliber and above calibers due to the need for thicker case wall and taper to promote the additional strength needed to both hold the bullet longer and reduce base wall blowout. For example: The 45 ACP and 45 GAP has a +.003 taper, 45 Auto Rim has a +.004 taper, and the 50 AE has a significant .014 taper from the base to the mouth. I can tell you why the exception if you would like to know?

The best tool to have for serious pistol shooters that reload for accuracy, is to have a sizing die made to fit the chamber in your 'Target Quality' pistol. How do you know what sizer you have is wrong, look at the outside of the case for dark discolorations resulting from pressure blow-back meaning your sizer die is too small for your chamber or your barrel chamber is oversized to your sizer die. Brownells will help match barrel chambers and sizing dies, RCBS may or may not still offer to make sizer dies based on your sample fired cases. Be aware, if your barrel is bad, don't waste your time getting a new sizer die, and remember your gun is most likely out shooting you the shooter.

PS: I you do not have a pressure/torque meter on your press or a fixed seat/crimp system none of your best efforts will solve this major inconsistency.

 

[Caveman Jim]

Prepping cases for 40 Smith & Wesson:

Good stuff from Caveman Jim for all straight wall pistol cases originally designed for pistols.

I would like to add to the Caveman's notes for the 40 S&W, and expand them to the common attributes for most of the other 'Straight Wall Pistol Cartridges'. Before we start I must establish a baseline fact and assumption: As with any firearm, the pistol must be verified, not the shooter. Almost all pistols will out group (shoot) the shooter, assuming a Good Barrel & Crown, Tight Sights, Tight Slide to Barrel, and Consistent Ammunition shot from a steady rest at a range no further than 50 feet.

Specifically common to all 'Straight' wall pistol cartridges:

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR REVOLVERS:

These cases are 99.9% 'Straight' Outside Diameter cases and are typically rimmed including 38 Special, 357 Magnum, 45 Colt, 454 Casull, 460 S&W Magnum and 480 Ruger to note a few. However an exception would be the 500 S&W released in 2003 as the King Of The Hill with a straight case. I can tell you why the exception if you would like to know?

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR SMALL ACP:

These Small ACP cases are also 'Straight' Outside Diameter cases including 25ACP, 32 ACP, 380 ACP, 380 Super Auto and the 380 Makarov. (NOT the 9mm Lugar/Parabellum/9x19mm, these have a .391 base to mouth .380 case taper). I can tell you why the exception if you would like to know?

ORIGINALLY DESIGNED FOR LARGE ACP:

These Large ACP cases (40 caliber and above) are also called 'Straight' Outside Diameter cases yet actually the 40 S&W has a + .001 to .002 larger base than the mouth, even more notable are the 45 caliber and above calibers due to the need for thicker case wall and taper to promote the additional strength needed to both hold the bullet longer and reduce base wall blowout. For example: The 45 ACP and 45 GAP has a +.003 taper, 45 Auto Rim has a +.004 taper, and the 50 AE has a significant .014 taper from the base to the mouth. I can tell you why the exception if you would like to know?

The best tool to have for serious pistol shooters that reload for accuracy, is to have a sizing die made to fit the chamber in your 'Target Quality' pistol. How do you know what sizer you have is wrong, look at the outside of the case for dark discolorations resulting from pressure blow-back meaning your sizer die is too small for your chamber or your barrel chamber is oversized to your sizer die. Brownells will help match barrel chambers and sizing dies, RCBS may or may not still offer to make sizer dies based on your sample fired cases. Be aware, if your barrel is bad, don't waste your time getting a new sizer die, and remember your gun is most likely out shooting you the shooter.

PS: I you do not have a pressure/torque meter on your press or a fixed seat/crimp system none of your best efforts will solve this major inconsistency.

Thanks for that information, I'm sure I'll gain the much needed experience with time but just learning the basics.

 

[Tilos]

It seems like everyone has their own unique method of tumbling, many variations, with wet tumbling with SS pins being the latest rage.

With most reloaders being cheap, we are always looking for substitute products (read cheaper) for media, "polish" and magic additives.

If you prefer to de-prime (I do) before tumbling, this guy has it down:

I just remove the de-primer stem/pin assembly from the center of a die and chuck that in my drill press.

If you decide on vibe tumbling, know that adding something like Nu-Finish makes sizing much easier.

And if you're looking for walnut media, this $10 will get you 2 different grits to try, and an extra bowl for your tumbler:
Metal Vibratory Tumbler Replacement Bowl

 

[John Lynn]

With my Glock 9mm I had to use a Lee factory crimp at the last stage of my progressive loader. The reload left a small edge where the case meet the bullet. It would jam in my Glock. So I use this:

Amazon.com : Lee Precision 9-mm Carbide Factory Crimp Die : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

I also use the factory crimp for my .223 loads they just feel better (smoother at the edge). You have to be careful about neck crush with the .223.

Amazon.com : Lee Precision 223 Rem Factory Crimp Die : Gunsmithing Tools And Accessories : Sports & Outdoors

Always inspect you reloads in an ammo box, when you have 50-100 round in the box turn it a few different ways, you may see the one or two that have problems. They will not look symmetrical in the box to the rest of the loads.

 

[Caveman Jim]

It seems like everyone has their own unique method of tumbling, many variations, with wet tumbling with SS pins being the latest rage.

With most reloaders being cheap, we are always looking for substitute products (read cheaper) for media, "polish" and magic additives.

If you prefer to de-prime (I do) before tumbling, this guy has it down:

I just remove the de-primer stem/pin assembly from the center of a die and chuck that in my drill press.

If you decide on vibe tumbling, know that adding something like Nu-Finish makes sizing much easier.

And if you're looking for walnut media, this $10 will get you 2 different grits to try, and an extra bowl for your tumbler:
Metal Vibratory Tumbler Replacement Bowl

Thanks for the tips but I really don't like to do unnecessary steps. I [tumble first], [check all cases, decap & resize, clean the primer pocket & then prime on the press].
I saw a video about doing the decaping, resizing & priming in the same step..... nice way of using time wisely I think.



When I find out the best load I'll [charge the case, seat the bullet] & then [crimp], the [ ] are steps I do.

Easy peasy & no trimming to boot!!!!

 

[Tilos]

Thanks for the tips but I really don't like to do unnecessary steps. I [tumble first], [check all cases, decap & resize, clean the primer pocket & then prime on the press].

When I find out the best load I'll [charge the case, seat the bullet] & then [crimp], the [ ] are steps I do.
Easy peasy & no trimming to boot!!!!

De-priming BEFORE tumbling will get you clean primer pockets when you tumble with fine walnut.
Doing so will eliminate the "clean the primer pocket" (an unnecessary for me) step in your routine.

I load all handgun ammo on progressive presses, so my routine/process will be somewhat different from yours.
Only three steps for me when I de-prime before tumbling, or two-tumble/load when I don't

Many are anal about priming into a dirty primer pocket but I've done it on a progressive...messy though.
You will find inspection of handgun brass verses rifle less critical, with neck splits being the usual failure, something that's very obvious.
Sometimes range brass has been left there because it was used for major competition, but you'll know to toss it when the primer almost falls out when de-priming.

 

[Caveman Jim]

De-priming BEFORE tumbling will get you clean primer pockets when you tumble with fine walnut.
Doing so will eliminate the "clean the primer pocket" (an unnecessary for me) step in your routine.

I load all handgun ammo on progressive presses, so my routine/process will be somewhat different from yours.
Only three steps for me when I de-prime before tumbling, or two-tumble/load when I don't

Many are anal about priming into a dirty primer pocket but I've done it on a progressive...messy though.
You will find inspection of handgun brass verses rifle less critical, with neck splits being the usual failure, something that's very obvious.
Sometimes range brass has been left there because it was used for major competition, but you'll know to toss it when the primer almost falls out when de-priming.

I have the single stage RCBS press for now but from what I'm hearing, tips & comments, I may have to step into the DARK side of a progressive. I'm too new at this reloading game to trust setting one of these things up properly.

I chuck the pocket cleaner in my cordless drill & it takes just a second to clean em out so it is still saving time and part of my routine.

 

[FordPrefect]

I chuck the pocket cleaner in my cordless drill & it takes just a second to clean em out so it is still saving time and part of my routine.

I have a single stage as well. I have found that when I get rolling, it's not much of an issue. Given I only do about 100-200 at a time. With the pistol, my biggest wait is for measuring powder. I have the Hornady automatic system and I like it, except for 9mm and 45 ACP.

On the pocket cleaning, I started doing that after I found out how sore my hands got with doing it all by hand. I didn't feel like spending over $100 for the RCBS station.

 

[Caveman Jim]

Same here. I prepped about 6-800 223 cases all by hand and am still recuperating...
But being as I shoot more 223 than 40S&W I'm gonna pick up a case prep workstation & this Giraud $98.00 3-Way Trimmer/Chamferer for Power Drills « Daily Bulletin

The pistol brass prep seems way too easy...

 

[FordPrefect]

But being as I shoot more 223 than 40S&W I'm gonna pick up a case prep workstation & this Giraud $98.00 3-Way Trimmer/Chamferer for Power Drills « Daily Bulletin

I am planning on getting this, RCBS Trim Pro Case Trimmer 3-Way Cutter 22 Cal. I can get that as I have the RCBS trimmer so I can trim my .223 and have it chamfer and debur as well

The pistol brass prep seems way too easy...

Tell me about that. I started going all out on 9mm. Trimming to the trim to length, massive PITA, making it all shiny and new looking, etc. After doing lots of reading, I came to the conclusion that as long as the brass is good and not out of tolerance length wise, then all I do is clean it, de-cap it, clean the pocket, prime, powder, and drop a bullet into it.



Just a few of the .223 and 45 ACP I've loaded

 

[Caveman Jim]

This is my start, have to get a good day to shoot the 4 different loads I've made up & decide which one to mass produce.

 

[FordPrefect]

This is my start, have to get a good day to shoot the 4 different loads I've made up & decide which one to mass produce.

View attachment 329076

I wish I had that much .223/5.56 brass. I've been going out in the woods to shoot, but all I've been picking up is the steel crap that everybody leaves around. The last time I went out a few weeks ago the only thing that I found was 2x 40 S&W, 1 45 ACP, and 1 .223.

Guess I'm going to have to stop being cheap and buy some.

 

[Caveman Jim]

There is one spot that I go shooting that has another guy & I playing hop scotch.... sometimes there is a ton & the next week there is none then YAHOOOOOO I get a ton..... see how things go?