Polymer AR Lowers

[LuckySG]

My only follow up question is, where/how can you get a complete forged lower for $79.99?

I suppose if it fails in the manner expected, I'll just salvage all the working parts and place them in a more traditional lower.

You can have a billet lower for under $80. Forged should be under $50 unless you are buying a name and that can add up to $300.

 

[turbo_vanner]

most of the problems with poly lowers have been worked out. They're fine.

If you're actually worried about surviving the apocalypse with one AR, then it probably isnt for you, otherwise, have at it. I run one with a light faxon barrel, adjustable block and lightweight bolt. Feels like a bb gun.

 

[raftman]

You can have a billet lower for under $80. Forged should be under $50 unless you are buying a name and that can add up to $300.

Are we talking complete or stripped?

 

[LuckySG]

Are we talking complete or stripped?

Stripped.

Here is an example in the middle as it has an upper paired, but $500? Not even a great color yet! Spikes Billet Lower 308 Cal STSBX10 | Lucky Sporting Goods, LLC

For a few buck more than this black rain Black Rain Milled Lower Receiver BRO-MLR-308 | Lucky Sporting Goods, LLC I can get a Daniel's Defense lower. Which has better market share?

 

[notazombie]

You can have a billet lower for under $80. Forged should be under $50 unless you are buying a name and that can add up to $300.

To add a little side note to this; IronMonster once explained that the less expensive forged lowers are actually stronger than the more expensive billet pieces. Forging makes the alloy more dense. Billet lowers typically cost more because they've been finished on a CNC. You'll notice that they've usually got the integral trigger guard and fancy reinforcements and/or logos on them. Forged lowers usually have the standard milspec appearance with a few exceptions.
I wouldn't expect to notice a functional difference between the two.

 

[BlindedByScience]

I've got more than one poly pistol in the safe, but not a single poly AR lower.

AP's can be found very reasonably right now, IMHO there's no reason to take chances with poly when a well engineered, well made lower can be had at a very reasonable price. Some of those did find their way into the safe.....

JMHO - B.B.S.

 

[saxon]

They're are actually fantastic.
Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
View attachment 522485

as raftman said

To be fair, it appears he was talking about an E3 Gen II, and that picture certainly isn't of one of those. Secondly a picture without context makes it hard to tell whether this failed from normal range use.

in fact if you post a picture and give no details you pic don't mean shine ola


and no raftman I was in fact speaking of poly lowers as a whole
#1 are you going to do push ups with your gun?
#2 are you shooting rounds that are to much for your buffer?
if no then the bubblegum about them busting is bunkum unless you have proof of one getting busted by just shooting it.....

 

[DirectDrive]

Another thing.
A lower has to be able to survive a fat guy sitting on it.
That is where the polymer fails miserably.

 

[DirectDrive]

Is that blue locktite on trigger and hammer roll pins?

Yes, it looks like it.
It also looks like that one didn't survive the Fat Guy Test.

 

[Caveman Jim]

They're are actually fantastic.
Don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
View attachment 522485

(In a Rocky Bobby voice while on fire running in his underwear)....

WHERE'S MY BUFFER WHERE'S MY BUFFER!!!!

 

[HuckFin]

I bought EP Armory polymer (3 for $40.00) lowers to practice on first before going aluminum. Bought a PSA lower parts kit ($59.) and that included everything, buffer tube, stock etc. Tried it out on a $200. PSA complete 16" upper. Run about 500 rounds through it before switching out the upper for a dedicated PSA 22lr upper which now is my favorite 22.
I think I will hold on to the rest of the unfinished 80% polymer uppers. Maybe even sell them when prices go up.

 

[BATTERY]

I don't see the point. Lowers are super cheap

 

[revjen45]

1) This convinces me that I don't want a polymer lower. (Never did, actually.)
2) How about fixing it with Super Glue or J&B Weld?

 

[raftman]

Eh mine's still working fine and in one piece a few hundred rounds later. Not a torture test, I know, but still.

 

[rdb241]

Poly lowers for an AR are ok if you want a toy (seriously) and only plan to bench shoot with it. As stated above, the rear of the poly receivers are TERRIBLY weak where the buffer tube threads into.

Poly pistol frames are an entirely different application and cannot be realistically compared to on this subject.

My rule on polymere lowers is do not use rifle calibers. I built 3 polymere rifles but all are pistol caliber carbines. Yes they are just a toy but aren't all guns toys? I built one in .22lr, 9mm, and 40 s&w. All of them are 80%ers.

 

[BlindedByScience]

Since this thread popped up again, my point is that I've seen forged lowers in the $25.00 range, on sale. Not sure what the risk of poly brings to the table.

And, not to put too fine a point on it, but if the lower is mil-spec and the holes are in the right places, the difference between a $25.00 lower and a $500.00 billet lower is cosmetics and bragging rights.....IMHO. There are things on an AR that matter a lot, but the lower (and upper, actually) aren't where you get the return for the dollar.

 

[MrRob96]

Since this thread popped up again, my point is that I've seen forged lowers in the $25.00 range, on sale. Not sure what the risk of poly brings to the table.

And, not to put too fine a point on it, but if the lower is mil-spec and the holes are in the right places, the difference between a $25.00 lower and a $500.00 billet lower is cosmetics and bragging rights.....IMHO. There are things on an AR that matter a lot, but the lower (and upper, actually) aren't where you get the return for the dollar.

I thought the upper has some impact with rigidity holding true for sighting systems.

 

[Boboclown]

I thought the upper has some impact with rigidity holding true for sighting systems.

No. Otherwise my AK dust covers that hinge open and closed as well as having optics on them would never retain zero (they do retain zero and return to zero).

 

[MDH]

I thought the upper has some impact with rigidity holding true for sighting systems.

With polite consideration to Bobo, I think it's more nuanced.
How small a shift are you looking for? Is your gun/ammo 2moa? 1moa? .5moa? .25moa? On a 1 minute gun, a quarter minute shift might just be washed out as noise in a group. On a PRC gun where matches come down to hundredths, a quarter minute is catastrophic.
I have several 1moa ARs and one that is a consistent half minute shooter, assuming I can do my job that day. Even my red dot guns have been tested on a bench with magnified optics to see what their ultimate potential is.
All that said, yes. I believe that there is a difference in accuracy potential between different uppers and lowers. Whether you'll see that is purely a question of how you intend to use it.
I have a buddy who is a great long range shooter. He spent the bare minimum on his close quarters gun, because minute of pie plate it's all he cares about for that gun.
You do you.

 

[turbo_vanner]

the only critical areas of an AR upper are having a 1" hole for the bolt, snug fitting holes and lugs to go into the lower, a straight pic rail, straight, square barrel nut threads, and a flat, square surface for the barrel to mount to. All that is pretty easy for a decent machinist to keep in check. I've milled an upper or two for myself from solid blocks, and I'm pretty new to CNC mills.

it sure can affect a rifles rigidity and accuracy, but it would take a heck of a gun and shooter to bring them out, especially with how consistent cheap forged uppers are.