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Mine arrived today
Cool.
There are several ways to do these.
There are also several ways to screw up.
Here's a giant thread on building the P80.
Polymer80. So easy a caveman could do it... - Page 1 - AR15.COM
I did my drilling with the jig clamped flat and used a "drill jig" on top of the main jig to keep my holes square with the frame.
Polymer80. So easy a caveman could do it... - Page 128 - AR15.COM
And the "slave pin" technique worked well.

Mistakes to avoid...

Do your drilling first and then deal with the tabs
Use a drill motor with a true running chuck and a drill bit that also runs true (not bent).
Drill one side at a time....do not try to drill through from one side
Drop your trigger in before blocking access with the locking block
The OEM leaf spring for the slide lock lever was too long by about its "thickness"
grind off a few thousandths from the end of the spring that goes down into the frame (you want this spring to be flush or below flush in the RSA channel)

If you don't drill clean, straight holes you will have problems.
 
Last Edited:
Thanks this will help as it came with a jig and drill bits but no instructions.
Here are the official P80 instructions...
https://www.polymer80.com/media/wysiwyg/porto/instructions/Polymer80-PF940C-Instructions.pdf
They use the end mill method for the tabs.
You can use a Dremel (not a fan) or I used a flush-cutting end nipper and then finished with a "file"
made from a 3/4" x 10" piece of glass.
I used various grits of sandpaper (strips) taped to my glass backer plate.
Worked and will use again.

I added important comments in my above post.
 
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