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Didn't see anyone else mention this, but a vintage WWII 1911 has collector value, especially in original condition, meaning keep the finish and barrel, even if you wish to shoot it, and/or replace it - keep the barrel and don't re-finish gun, don't start swapping out grip/thumb safety, etc. if you want maximum value someday down the road.
 
Didn't see anyone else mention this, but a vintage WWII 1911 has collector value, especially in original condition, meaning keep the finish and barrel, even if you wish to shoot it, and/or replace it - keep the barrel and don't re-finish gun, don't start swapping out grip/thumb safety, etc. if you want maximum value someday down the road.

I intend to keep it as original as i can. I just wasnt sure if the barrel was usable.
 
It's a mix master then. I would tear it down, clean and lube it and look for any structural issues at key areas.
Slap in a new spring, check to see if the safety works and go shoot some standard loads.
I would watch were the empty cases land and where it hits the target before changing anything for the better.
Also, bring some newer magazines in case the original one has a weak spring.
 
It's a mix master then. I would tear it down, clean and lube it and look for any structural issues at key areas.
Slap in a new spring, check to see if the safety works and go shoot some standard loads.
I would watch were the empty cases land and where it hits the target before changing anything for the better.
Also, bring some newer magazines in case the original one has a weak spring.

Ran great, put about 30rds through it. The magazine has seen better days but their are plenty available, I think it definitely needs a new spring but ran without any malfunctions. Not sure if its me or the barrel but accuracy is less than desireable
 
Until you are sure there is a defect in the 1911 treat it as if there are none. Instead of the opinions expressed here, take it to a gunsmith and have him give it a physical to determine what is right and wrong with it. One thing I would do now is get a cleaning kit and scrub that barrel out. I have a 1911 that is a 1944 Ithaca but it is a piece of history and a prized possession. If there are problems with your Colt you can make a project out of restoring it. If it's a mixmaster, so what! If you have to replace any parts do not throw them away. Just put them back in or give them to whoever you sell it too.
 
Until you are sure there is a defect in the 1911 treat it as if there are none. Instead of the opinions expressed here, take it to a gunsmith and have him give it a physical to determine what is right and wrong with it. One thing I would do now is get a cleaning kit and scrub that barrel out. I have a 1911 that is a 1944 Ithaca but it is a piece of history and a prized possession. If there are problems with your Colt you can make a project out of restoring it. If it's a mixmaster, so what! If you have to replace any parts do not throw them away. Just put them back in or give them to whoever you sell it too.

I intend to keep every part. Not sure if I wan to restore it, just get it functioning correctly. Yes Its collectible but I wont own a gun if i cant shoot it.
 
One thing about magazines. Cheap mags are cheap for a reason. If you start getting "failure to feed" or "Failure to lock the slide back on the last round" start looking at the magazine first.
 
Remington Rand solved those issues by using a special treatment with molten lead in those problem areas.
You can see the areas very distinctly because the parkerizing comes out darker in those areas.
My 1944 RR which was refinished, stills shows those dark areas.


upload_2019-3-28_22-29-10.jpeg
 
Ran great, put about 30rds through it. The magazine has seen better days but their are plenty available, I think it definitely needs a new spring but ran without any malfunctions. Not sure if its me or the barrel but accuracy is less than desireable
Need to shoot it off a rest. Those original sights were very hard to use. The recoil spring if it's old and weak will allow the gun to get battered more than necessary. If you decide to got with better sights it's worth getting the front milled to use a dovetail. Little cheaper to buy a replacement staked in but the dovetail will be worth it if you want to keep the pistol. Have fun!
 
Those could be early in the war Remington Rands. After the war, Remington Rand pistols were the preferred pistol to use in the Camp Perry pistol matches.
 
I might takeyou up on that. Not sure when ill be up in portland, term starting next week. I beleive its a mixed gun. Colt slide, Remington frame based off the FJA inspector marks
Dear owner of the old 1911,

I agree, the first thing I'd do would be to replace the recoil spring, but I'd put in an 18 pound that way you need not worry about cracking your frame which would be a shame to do to this ol' war horse! Personally before you do anything else, you should take it to a good 1911 expert. If you live in the PNW, the closest is in Washington State. The company is South Ridge Arms 3502 Meridian Avenue last, Edgewood, WA 98372 (253) 576-7096 They are the closest 1911 45ACP experts.
 
Didn't see anyone else mention this, but a vintage WWII 1911 has collector value, especially in original condition, meaning keep the finish and barrel, even if you wish to shoot it, and/or replace it - keep the barrel and don't re-finish gun, don't start swapping out grip/thumb safety, etc. if you want maximum value someday down the road.

Here's one made in 1917 with current bid of over $11,000. Looks like a new one! :)

HOLY GRAIL OF COLT 1911 U.S. ARMY .45ACP PISTOLS - Semi Auto Pistols at GunBroker.com : 805854776
 

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