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New Noveske build

Discussion in 'General Firearm Discussion' started by Hardwood floor guy, May 10, 2013.

  1. Hardwood floor guy

    Hardwood floor guy Beaverton Active Member

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    I just bought a Noveske 18"upper complete with staked bolt but no bolt carrier, and a stripped Noveske lower.
    I want to build this rifle top notch so what bolt carrier should I buy for it?
    Also what trigger is better....geissele, timney or is there something better than those two?
    Also I bought a Noveske end plate and it says it needs to be staked by an armor or gunsmith. Why does this need staked?
     
  2. speeddemon94

    speeddemon94 The Rogue Well-Known Member

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    Lets begin a the top...

    You have a bolt carrier that has the gas key installed and staked, but no bolt?

    Staking, IMO, is not completely necessary on the buffer castle nut as long as it's torqued properly, but we did it on everything in the service to ensure the soldiers did not put on their own.

    Trigger is gonna be a lot of personal opinion..what are you building it to do?
     
  3. Hardwood floor guy

    Hardwood floor guy Beaverton Active Member

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    No it came with bolt only but I guess Noveske has a shortage of bolt carriers from what the guy at nw armory said. so I need a bolt carrier/gas key/firing pin etc.
    Why does the castle nut on the buffer tube need to be torqued? It just doesn't seem like a real critical part, I'm not real experienced with rifle building though.
    I really didn't understand staking the end plate, it seems like it just holds a spring in and doesn't seem like a real critical part either.
    I had a timney trigger on my old ar and loved it but never felt a geissele or jp trigger so I was wondering which is lighter/more crisp.
     
  4. speeddemon94

    speeddemon94 The Rogue Well-Known Member

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    Weird...I would go nickle boron on the bolt carrier.

    Believe it or not, that buffer tube can take a beating back there. I'm not sure what the staking of the end plate is all about, it just slides on and is held in place by the castle nut, which is usually factory staked to hold the whole unit together...That's what needs to be torqued to avoid vibration rattling it loose.

    I am retired Army, and the nicest trigger I ever got was a two stage match from RRA, but the purpose for me is/was not long range stuff...
     
  5. Darknight

    Darknight Salem Active Member

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    On the top of the back plate where the castle nut meets up with it, the castle nut will have a cut out where they meet, you can stake the back plate there to hold the castle nut on. I have seen it done, it's not necessary. You can google it and see pics.