Lubed 22lr match ammo…

[sikhed]

I have a custom ream I took from my dad's shop. It will require you to polish and use some extra oil, but will make a big difference in accuracy. He used it in all his 10/22 builds and mark 2/3 builds

Pulling the barrel on a browning or 10/22 is a piece of cake.
But Ruger's Mark series?...
Is the reamer long enough to clear the receiver, or does it require the barrel be removed?
(But actually I'm not really interested in doing that. Too many gunsmithing and build projects on the que already. And the MK2 shoots great)

 

[Mono1]

Having issues with lubed 22lr ammo through 10/22 aftermarket barrel ……Shaw bull.

I find great accuracy with Norma "Tac-22" and "Match"…. And the lubed S*K and ELEY stuff as well.

Read a little on ELEY' article and it looks like they use either Paraffin or Bee wax and both have different properties and little cost. Eley' writer identified purpose of wax to assist chambering more than bullet travel if not totally. One of the differences in wax is Bee' ability to pick up dust/debris.

My situation…. It seems:
After cleaning the rifle.. cool weather mostly…. And random ….. first box or 2 then it seems to run. Or if I blast through mid-high velocity plinking rnds.

Issues..:
- failure to eject
- failure to pick up next round
- erratic shell ejection paths

I tried for the first time wiping off lube before filling mag…. Seemed to do better but maybe I'm being optimistic.

A range buddy said matter of fact…. Carbon buildup becomes a lubricating surface.

But until when? I have to clean bore and action.

Maybe my questions:
- Is my rifle just not gonna run match/standard velocity ammo?
- wipe off lube on rounds before shooting?
- keep trying new ammo?
- upgrade recoil/action spring or bolt? (Factory now)
- shoot a seasonal ammo…..summer weather….. cool weather?

THX

Wish I had something to offer but I run Eley Contact through a Kidd Barrell on my 10-22 and it's non-problematic for hundreds of rounds before I even clean the bolt face. I do have a Volquartsen firing pin & trigger but can't see how that would have an impact.

 

[dinky450]

Pulling the barrel on a browning or 10/22 is a piece of cake.
But Ruger's Mark series?...
Is the reamer long enough to clear the receiver, or does it require the barrel be removed?
(But actually I'm not really interested in doing that. Too many gunsmithing and build projects on the que already. And the MK2 shoots great)

You can use a tap holder to reach. It won't work on a standard oem ruger chambers as they are already out of tolerance. Just the head spacing can change .03 from pistol to pistol.

 

[dinky450]

Pulling the barrel on a browning or 10/22 is a piece of cake.
But Ruger's Mark series?...
Is the reamer long enough to clear the receiver, or does it require the barrel be removed?
(But actually I'm not really interested in doing that. Too many gunsmithing and build projects on the que already. And the MK2 shoots great)

He was building custom as they get guns.

 

[Hueco]

Thinking about this a little more…I haven't run into extraction issues with a 10/22 that weren't extractor based…

But I did run into failure to extract on my NRL rig (cz457, lilja barrel) at first and ended up adjusting headspace to the point where extraction was no longer an issue.

Perhaps a headspace issue?

 

[NobullSKS]

Thinking about this a little more…I haven't run into extraction issues with a 10/22 that weren't extractor based…

But I did run into failure to extract on my NRL rig (cz457, lilja barrel) at first and ended up adjusting headspace to the point where extraction was no longer an issue.

Perhaps a headspace issue?

Thank you
Thinking about it more myself….. maybe it's more frequent with Norma in particular.

Quite a few good homework task came through here for me. I haven't had time yet but I'll be looking closer at extractor and think it's time for me to get more serious about head spacing on all of my chamberings. Still learning and get a lot out of y'all here. Thx again

 

[Member 34319]

Having issues with lubed 22lr ammo through 10/22 aftermarket barrel ……Shaw bull.

I find great accuracy with Norma "Tac-22" and "Match"…. And the lubed S*K and ELEY stuff as well.

Read a little on ELEY' article and it looks like they use either Paraffin or Bee wax and both have different properties and little cost. Eley' writer identified purpose of wax to assist chambering more than bullet travel if not totally. One of the differences in wax is Bee' ability to pick up dust/debris.

My situation…. It seems:
After cleaning the rifle.. cool weather mostly…. And random ….. first box or 2 then it seems to run. Or if I blast through mid-high velocity plinking rnds.

Issues..:
- failure to eject
- failure to pick up next round
- erratic shell ejection paths

I tried for the first time wiping off lube before filling mag…. Seemed to do better but maybe I'm being optimistic.

A range buddy said matter of fact…. Carbon buildup becomes a lubricating surface.

But until when? I have to clean bore and action.

Maybe my questions:
- Is my rifle just not gonna run match/standard velocity ammo?
- wipe off lube on rounds before shooting?
- keep trying new ammo?
- upgrade recoil/action spring or bolt? (Factory now)
- shoot a seasonal ammo…..summer weather….. cool weather?

THX

That wax in combination with a tighter headspace or match chamber usually decreases functionality in semis. This is one of a few reasons I have given up on precision 10/22s and just went to a bolt gun.

Temp plays a big role in waxed bullets, colder, the harder the wax/lubricant will be.

Otherwise…

From my understanding, researching the web, the wax/lube does two things. It aids in feeding, so as not to ruin the bullets profile. 22lr uses almost pure lead bullets and they are very soft. In semis they get beat up a lot, as well as bolt guns, it helps them go into the chamber without a huge dent or slice taken out of them. When you are trying to get as much precision out of 22 as possible, not beating the crap out of the bullet is a huge plus.

Secondly, they help center the round in the chamber better. Better centered, more consistent neck displacement when the bang occurs. Also better alignment, or in match chambers better chances at concentric rifling engagement. If you shoot for precision in a center fire you know all about concentric variables and how they can affect precision.

That said, I haven't the faintest idea if you put this rifle together for some form of competition or just for plinking. If it is for plinking, you might want to just put the regular barrel back on. Ruger hammer forges their barrels and their rifling is some of the best out there, they usually use sporting chambers though, as they want reliability over precision.

In 22lr, the tighter you squeeze tolerances, the more issues you'll run into. It's a dirty cartridge. They use cheap propellants, cheap lead, cheap everything really. That's why it's cheap! Start upping the rifle components, you'll need to up the ammo too. You'll also need to clean it more often and in lesser round counts if you want better reliability with the cheap stuff.

Hope that makes a little sense?!?

Keep plinking!

Reno

 

[Stomper]

Idk if this applies but I have to run my MK3 Hunter visibly wet with lube on the bolt.

I use a speed loader that I spritz a little Rem oil or whatever and have no idea if that helps with anything other the. Loading mags.

My suspicion if all you have changed is the barrel is that - well I have no idea why a barrel change would cause issues….

Carbon build up though on any of my guns is a recipe for failures so they get deep cleaned after being used.

That's so weird, my G44 has run HUNDREDS of rounds with barely a few drops of CLP to the rails without mechanical malfunction….. and 3-4 dud rounds don't count!

 

[sikhed]

….. and 3-4 dud rounds don't count!

 

[sikhed]

Funny isn't it?
If any centerfire cartridge or shotshell, or ordinance had a dud rate of 1-2% it would be considered crap, and probably be pulled from shelves and/or recalled.

But it's acceptable for 22 rimfire for well over 100 years.

 

[Hueco]

Funny isn't it?
If any centerfire cartridge or shotshell, or ordinance had a dud rate of 1-2% it would be considered crap, and probably be pulled from shelves and/or recalled.

But it's acceptable for 22 rimfire for well over 100 years.

I've had far less than 1/100 dud rate sticking to CCI, Aguila, and various precision oriented brands.

I know .22lr has somewhat of a bad rap for duds but I don't really consider them as they happen so few and far between for me.

Shop the bottom of the barrel for rounds, get what you pay for, I guess.

 

[Stomper]

Funny isn't it?
If any centerfire cartridge or shotshell, or ordinance had a dud rate of 1-2% it would be considered crap, and probably be pulled from shelves and/or recalled.

But it's acceptable for 22 rimfire for well over 100 years.

I burned through 500+ rounds over two days, so that's 3 FTF rounds divided by 500 (minimum) rounds equals .006…. basically one half of one percent, based on 500 rounds…. meh, I've have Army ammo FUBAR more often on the q-course more than that.

 

[NobullSKS]

@Reno

Thx for always coming through on the homework. "For Dummies" version on the topic/particular events.

It's a range toy….. wanted to see how accurate I can get with spending little on upgrades. Or a precision platform.

So I switched the barrel pretty quickly after after purchase….. don't think I gave OEM enough time to get through just a few different bullet types/manufacturers. Wanted my rifle to look like all the cool ones. I was much more ignorant than I am now 3-4 years later. I'm still mostly an idiot, but my shooting and knowledge has changed drastically since I started reloading couple years ago.

 

[oa98pistol512]

Having issues with lubed 22lr ammo through 10/22 aftermarket barrel ……Shaw bull.

I find great accuracy with Norma "Tac-22" and "Match"…. And the lubed S*K and ELEY stuff as well.

Read a little on ELEY' article and it looks like they use either Paraffin or Bee wax and both have different properties and little cost. Eley' writer identified purpose of wax to assist chambering more than bullet travel if not totally. One of the differences in wax is Bee' ability to pick up dust/debris.

My situation…. It seems:
After cleaning the rifle.. cool weather mostly…. And random ….. first box or 2 then it seems to run. Or if I blast through mid-high velocity plinking rnds.

Issues..:
- failure to eject
- failure to pick up next round
- erratic shell ejection paths

I tried for the first time wiping off lube before filling mag…. Seemed to do better but maybe I'm being optimistic.

A range buddy said matter of fact…. Carbon buildup becomes a lubricating surface.

But until when? I have to clean bore and action.

Maybe my questions:
- Is my rifle just not gonna run match/standard velocity ammo?
- wipe off lube on rounds before shooting?
- keep trying new ammo?
- upgrade recoil/action spring or bolt? (Factory now)
- shoot a seasonal ammo…..summer weather….. cool weather?

THX

Try different ammo and mags. I am tinkering with a 10/22 with a new green mountain bull barrel with cheaper then what your running ammo. First aguila runs fine in 10rd mags 25 rd mags jam every shot. Federal just jams, Now cci standard or high velocity runs in all mags and I am still playing as for accuracy I am getting inch to sub inch groups at 50 yards. I did do my share of polishing though.

 

[Member 34319]

I've had far less than 1/100 dud rate sticking to CCI, Aguila, and various precision oriented brands.

I know .22lr has somewhat of a bad rap for duds but I don't really consider them as they happen so few and far between for me.

Shop the bottom of the barrel for rounds, get what you pay for, I guess.

Duds aren't always the ammos fault. Shoot enough and get your firing pin channel gunked up enough, you won't strike it well enough.

Combine that with the fact most never disassemble their bolt in 22s past the extractor and your gonna get more duds.

10/22s (at least rugers bolt) has floating firing pins with a very loose tolerance. This is done on purpose, like the action of an AK, Ruger chose reliability over precision.

 

[ORhutner]

@NobullSKS are you able to extract a loaded round from the chamber? As mentioned, many match chambers are tight enough to cause problems with extraction, especially if out of spec ever so slightly on the tighter side. The flip side is that it helps to promote accuracy. In a safe environment, I would load a known good magazine with the various ammo you are wanting to run and then cycle through a loaded mag of the various ammo's paying close attention to the action. Do one ammo type at a time and make sure it is a fully loaded magazine. Watch for feeding, extraction, movement of the magazine, etc....

A factory ruger 10/22 (assuming you don't have a Kidd or TacSol aftermarket receiver) is pretty sloppy from a tolerances perspective. My curiosity has me wondering if your work to improve accuracy by tightening up the mags in the mag well via JB weld has taken to much slop out of the system and is actually contributing to your function issues. You might try running unaltered factory mags as part of your testing.

 

[Member 34319]

@Reno

Thx for always coming through on the homework. "For Dummies" version on the topic/particular events.

It's a range toy….. wanted to see how accurate I can get with spending little on upgrades. Or a precision platform.

So I switched the barrel pretty quickly after after purchase….. don't think I gave OEM enough time to get through just a few different bullet types/manufacturers. Wanted my rifle to look like all the cool ones. I was much more ignorant than I am now 3-4 years later. I'm still mostly an idiot, but my shooting and knowledge has changed drastically since I started reloading couple years ago.

If your 10/22 came with the factory bull barrel, you may want to give it some more time and ammo. They are a good balance of preciseness and reliability.

 

[Hueco]

Duds aren't always the ammos fault. Shoot enough and get your firing pin channel gunked up enough, you won't strike it well enough.

Combine that with the fact most never disassemble their bolt in 22s past the extractor and your gonna get more duds.

10/22s (at least rugers bolt) has floating firing pins with a very loose tolerance. This is done on purpose, like the action of an AK, Ruger chose reliability over precision.

I swallowed the "don't clean it till accuracy suffers" pill but always thought that applied to the barrel alone.

Actions (bolts, firing pins, receivers, mags, etc) should be cleaned often, IMO.

 

[Andy54Hawken]

Speaking as one who has won many a .22 rifle match...
I clean my rifles after every shooting.
I have too much time and money invested in my firearms to neglect them.

Do as you wish...it is your rifle.
Andy

 

[sikhed]

I swallowed the "don't clean it till accuracy suffers" pill but always thought that applied to the barrel alone.

Actions (bolts, firing pins, receivers, mags, etc) should be cleaned often, IMO.

Have both 22lr and black powder revolvers.
A few 100, 22s threw the revolver, vs 10 cylinder fulls on the percussion,
And they look the same inside and out.
22s are probably the dirtiest smokeless cartridges out there.