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Having issues with lubed 22lr ammo through 10/22 aftermarket barrel ……Shaw bull.

I find great accuracy with Norma "Tac-22" and "Match"…. And the lubed S*K and ELEY stuff as well.

Read a little on ELEY' article and it looks like they use either Paraffin or Bee wax and both have different properties and little cost. Eley' writer identified purpose of wax to assist chambering more than bullet travel if not totally. One of the differences in wax is Bee' ability to pick up dust/debris.

My situation…. It seems:
After cleaning the rifle.. cool weather mostly…. And random ….. first box or 2 then it seems to run. Or if I blast through mid-high velocity plinking rnds.

Issues..:
- failure to eject
- failure to pick up next round
- erratic shell ejection paths

I tried for the first time wiping off lube before filling mag…. Seemed to do better but maybe I'm being optimistic.

A range buddy said matter of fact…. Carbon buildup becomes a lubricating surface.

But until when? I have to clean bore and action.

Maybe my questions:
- Is my rifle just not gonna run match/standard velocity ammo?
- wipe off lube on rounds before shooting?
- keep trying new ammo?
- upgrade recoil/action spring or bolt? (Factory now)
- shoot a seasonal ammo…..summer weather….. cool weather?

THX
 
Idk if this applies but I have to run my MK3 Hunter visibly wet with lube on the bolt.

I use a speed loader that I spritz a little Rem oil or whatever and have no idea if that helps with anything other the. Loading mags.

My suspicion if all you have changed is the barrel is that - well I have no idea why a barrel change would cause issues….

Carbon build up though on any of my guns is a recipe for failures so they get deep cleaned after being used.
 
I haven't run into your situation but my guess is the wax is acting just like wet lubes do, gathering and holding dirt, debris, carbon, unburnt powder, etc. 22s particularly bad for this as I'm sure you know.

Cleaning more often, removing lube from bullets, using a dry lube that builds up a slippery dry surface which resists build up might be things to try. If it were me I would probably try removing lube from bullets and see if any difference in accuracy and if no difference that would fix the problem.
 
Idk if this applies but I have to run my MK3 Hunter visibly wet with lube on the bolt.

I use a speed loader that I spritz a little Rem oil or whatever and have no idea if that helps with anything other the. Loading mags.

My suspicion if all you have changed is the barrel is that - well I have no idea why a barrel change would cause issues….

Carbon build up though on any of my guns is a recipe for failures so they get deep cleaned after being used.
Normal lube job on action after… solvent if needed….. gun scrubber/brake cleaner…… heavy oil and compressed air blow out…… finish with oiled finger love while reassembly.
Dry patch bore.

Works well with all my firearms. Maybe little heavier oil if function bearing surfaces polish…..(firing with heavy oil) until it'll all run smooth…. Mostly AR BCGs on upper receivers bearing surfaces

Yeah at a point carbon becomes the failure point…..

Regarding barrel change.
Only thing I can think of is chamber tolerances In upgrade barrels….. stamping on side of barrel…"may not extract unfired ammunition" but I think that's the case for most aftermarket barrels.
 
Not sure if this applies...
( Or even if the following is correct )

I read once that certain 10/22 match barrels wouldn't work with CCI Stingers...something about too tight of a chamber.
Maybe...
Something like this is going on with your Shaw barrel....?

A more realistic answer is that the lube is picking up gunk somewhere / somehow and messing the works up.
Andy
 
Not sure if this applies...
( Or even if the following is correct )

I read once that certain 10/22 match barrels wouldn't work with CCI Stingers...something about too tight of a chamber.
Maybe...
Something like this is going on with your Shaw barrel....?

A more realistic answer is that the lube is picking up gunk somewhere / somehow and messing the works up.
Andy
Stingers….. nickel case…. Lite bullet weights run perfectly. They are usually higher velocity. Federal personnel defense 29 grain… is pretty fast and nickel. Runs good. Just not great groups. Maybe I'm expecting to much from a semi auto but I try and keep learning

Lower velocity lubed cases are the issue. I'd assume new from box they'll be pretty clean but who knows. I wonder if the lube itself is gumming up after firing and causing slow blowback.

If I can come across them (if they exist) …. Nickel case match ammo. I'll have to hunt around. I was just quite pleased that a fairly inexpensive prevalent ammo did so well for me. NORMA. I'd prefer not to have to run strictly Lapua or ELEY high end. But I may.
 
A tight chamber and a bad extractor are two things that can cause problems so can cold weather and dirty chamber and bolt face.
 
something about too tight of a chamber.
Maybe...
The 10-22 match barrels have tighter tolerances. I shoot the SK Rifle match in my CZ bolt gun.
Yes you are correct it is some greasy stuff.
After cleaning the rifle
My club does a 50 yard and 200 yard bench rest rimfire match. The guys that know what they are doing
(not me) do not clean the rifle until accuracy degrades. Usually over 1K before cleaning. Also after
cleaning it takes several hundred rounds to 'Settle In' the barrel. Now running a semi auto probably
would not work out not cleaning it? The 22 LR dominates the 50 yard matches and the 17 HMR is
what works the best at 200 yards.
CZ 527 22 LR At One stock
1681661262967.png
 
Thx @ron
I'd love a CZ
I like lobbing 200 yrd standard velocity rounds at a plate. Almost don't need sights in good light. Can see them drop in flight.
 
Your issues don't necessarily sound like they're from the ammo.

The stock extractor angle on 10/22's leaves some to be desired - I file mine into a bit more of a claw shape.

Also, the mag with 10/22's doesn't exactly scream accuracy - it's a bit loose with some mags. The tightest lockup I've found is with some 10 rounders and the Tandemkross dual thingamajiggies.

Rule out a magazine issue by numbering your mags and keeping track of where the problems occur.

Finally, if it does end up being lubey boolits, try Wolf Target. It's made by Wolf on Eley machines - they even headstamp with an E still. I've found them to be super accurate for my NRL rig and they're less greasy than SK by a long, long way.

F3F97679-42EE-4520-9623-511D8E36F796.jpeg 571B059C-9E40-4958-B66C-113480B072CD.jpeg 0BE0248D-3DC1-4082-B065-4E6F1F58AE2C.jpeg
 
Thx @ron
I'd love a CZ
I like lobbing 200 yrd standard velocity rounds at a plate. Almost don't need sights in good light. Can see them drop in flight.
At 200 yards you break the shot while looking through the scope at the target suddenly a little hole pops up after
a half second delay.
Shooting Highpower rifle at 600 yards line up the spotting scope behind the shooter. You see this arching wave
in the air then contact the target dust flying. You can actually spot the shot pretty well. If someone is not on paper
you can call it left/ right or high/low.
On the firing 300 yard line at DRRC each shooter has a 'scorer' behind them.
1681665383755.png
 
Last Edited:
Thx @Hueco
Some easy things I can get start on 👍👍

On my own I managed secure lockup with BX25 mags…..
JB weld buildup on sides engaging the stock.

Layer JBweld…. File flat and sand to tight fit. Removed any side wobble. I'd post a pic but not nearby. But I think you understand.
 
You can always take some polishing compound and polish the chamber. Also take a drop of tri-flow and just add one drop to the first round of each mag. Match chambers are very tight.
 
I had to polish the chamber on three of my ruger American rimfires all had ejection problems, it helped but I still sold them and bought a tikka.
 
Never had issues with the lubed ammo (rws and s*k I think) still have a couple K of each after buying a case of each year's ago.
Don't have match chambers either on a MK2 Competition, and a Browning 22 carbine.
Figured it was polishing the bolt and internals with that melted wax & carbon slurry.

22s always get cleaned after shooting anyways.
That oily wax and carbon paste come right off. Certainly better than black powder fouling.
 
I have a custom ream I took from my dad's shop. It will require you to polish and use some extra oil, but will make a big difference in accuracy. He used it in all his 10/22 builds and mark 2/3 builds
 

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