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I've been finally getting down to insulating the shop. The shop is 86x32. 30 feet of it has a open wall on one side. Loafing shed. Anyways, 56x32 gets insulated. I got all
Kinds of quotes. For roll out, spray foam, blow in.
First off spray foam is beyond overpriced.
I see it as good for a home. Maybe. I did R21 in the walls and R38 In the ceiling. The trusses are about 17-18 feet in height. Hoping the roll out 38 fiberglass is good enough. Maybe at that height 38 is overkill??
 
My shop is a bit small size but did the same as you. 21 walls and 38 roof. Wish I could find a better way to insulate the roll up bay doors.
 
My shop is 2x6 construction so we used R-38 then dry walled it and used styrofoam panels on the 14 foot shop door, keeps cool in the summer too.
 
The minimum R value would be determined by the building department in your area. Typically, residential walls would be R19 or one layer of batts/fiberglass insulation. Roof insulation are generally two rolls or R19 x 2 = R38. Foundation is generally R-11 to a depth x width determined again by the local building department.

Each building department will do an envelope calculation to determine if it meets code if needed.

I would shoot an email to your building department (for a record) and ask: is adding insulation to an 'unheated' shop now considered a 'heated' shop? Will you need a permit? What R value is needed? Yes, needing a permit may seem crazy but many building departments are run by crazy people.
 
Where did you find the styrofoam? Was it economical? How did you attach it?
 
The minimum R value would be determined by the building department in your area. Typically, residential walls would be R19 or one layer of batts/fiberglass insulation. Roof insulation are generally two rolls or R19 x 2 = R38. Foundation is generally R-11 to a depth x width determined again by the local building department.

Each building department will do an envelope calculation to determine if it meets code if needed.

I would shoot an email to your building department (for a record) and ask: is adding insulation to an 'unheated' shop now considered a 'heated' shop? Will you need a permit? What R value is needed? Yes, needing a permit may seem crazy but many building departments are run by crazy people.

The last thing I would do is ask the building department what kind of insulation my shop needs. Once you ask them, it becomes this open ended ongoing sh*t show of one persons / officials interpretation of the codes, and how they should be applied to your particular build.This can and will differ from code, from the last job done and a host of other reasons. . You can look Oregon Building building codes up for such things, but really your wallet determines how much insulation you should use.

Different inspectors will interpret code differently and have different requirements. You will get one inspector who will require something another will not.

I have spent the last year working with this situation and saw my last inspection several months ago.
 
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Like I said, crazy people. I once had a project in which the building dept required a 6' fence around pools. The client had 6' perimeter fence surrounding his property in which the code examiner, the person who stamps the drawings, said it was the only what was needed. But I couldn't pass it by the receptionist who wouldn't accept the plans. In the end, the client's backyard looked like a prison yard with 6' fences everywhere in his little yard.

If you don't want to talk to the building dept, check their website. Sometimes they'll have sketches of general construction requirements you can download.
 
My shop is a bit small size but did the same as you. 21 walls and 38 roof. Wish I could find a better way to insulate the roll up bay doors.
I did my garage with some stuff Owens Corning makes for that. Some kind of closed cell foam stuff with like foil on both sides. Real tough stuff and real light. Couple rolls did a double car garage door. Winter helps a lot. In the summer the morning sun hits that door and it used to turn the place into an oven. The insulation made it a LOT better. It was so light the opener did not seem to notice the difference when I was done. I had wondered it I would have to have the spring adjusted but it seems to not even notice it's there.
 
I think this is the residential energy code in use in Idaho (please verify) - read this chapter first - it may answer questions about whether you have to comply with the code or whether the building is exempt:

 
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When I built the shop. Few years back, we had them install 12x16 insulated doors with openers.
As far as code goes, we steer clear of that. I'm putting a 13x13 foot overhang over the front porch in a few weeks. We won't be pulling any permits. Not sure there needed but won't even ask.
I will say this. I firmly believe that homes in Idaho are built like crap compared to the left coast. They'll let anyone build a home here. And most suck at it.
 
Well I hate installing insulation. Sucks!!! But the scissor lift was the only way to do it. God bless the man that invented that. What a huge job!!!!
Yes I'm whining
 
Here's the Idaho St. energy code in the simplest form.
Depends on the county you live in. I used to be a insulation contractor if the main big area isn't going to have constant heat going I'd just use R 38 even though the code in Idaho is R 49 in the ceiling but if it going to have constant heat use what the code says. Also it would be a lot cheaper to have that large area blown in with fiberglass after its sheet rocked if that's what your planning on using. But make sure and but a min of 44" baffle at any vented bird bock so you don't block your attic ventilation. Also if you go with batt insulation to get R49 you use R 19 combined with R 30
ITV you have any questions pm me I'd be happy to help assist. :)
Stacy
 
Here's the Idaho St. energy code in the simplest form.
Depends on the county you live in. I used to be a insulation contractor if the main big area isn't going to have constant heat going I'd just use R 38 even though the code in Idaho is R 49 in the ceiling but if it going to have constant heat use what the code says. Also it would be a lot cheaper to have that large area blown in with fiberglass after its sheet rocked if that's what your planning on using. But make sure and but a min of 44" baffle at any vented bird bock so you don't block your attic ventilation. Also if you go with batt insulation to get R49 you use R 19 combined with R 30
ITV you have any questions pm me I'd be happy to help assist. :)
Stacy
What do you mean about the 44 at the vented bird block? Also my roof vent is on the ridge.
 
What do you mean about the 44 at the vented bird block? Also my roof vent is on the ridge.

Here's two links that will explain it simply. One explains why and the other how to install one form of a baffle. In the installation video they have a none screen eve block your application make be like what in the other article. I have used these in a pinch. A professional installer usually use a treated cardboard baffle because there easier and cheaper but you can only get them thru a insulation supplier and they come in bundles of 50 or more and you won't need that many
Hope this helps :)
Stacy


 
Well because I saw your post early this morning I went and found the foam pink ones. I got them in after the fact. Then we hung OSB. That sucked. I'm horrible at hanging sheets of anything!!!
Thanks so much for the help!
 

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