Installing a muzzle device

[ilikegunspdx]

I want to install a simple birdcage flash hider on my barrel with a crush washer, is there anything I need to do to prep the threads so the device is easily removable in the far future?

View attachment 2050302

I'm no expert but for me I coat every single thread (and tri lug adapters) on suppressors and barrel threads with BN lube. It's stable to 1800 degrees F and is a dry lube. I hear people complain about things locking up and I've never had that issue at all doing this.

Some people buy BN as a powder and if you do that I would get the smallest nano particle size available. But I'm lazy so I buy liqui moly ceratec from
Amazon. It's BN nano particle in a carrier oil. I put it in a little squeeze bottle needle oiler and let it settle out for a week or whatever then remove much of the carrier oil to get a higher concentration of BN. Imo is best to coat whatever you are lubing and work it several times to help the BN adsorb to the metal. For example the action of the gun or threads of the suppressor.

 

[Lazyfaire]

My understanding is that it is better not to use a crush washer, but to use a shim kit, especially if you are going to suppress it, because of better alignment.

I have used the flat soft shims but always am disappointed. I found these shims from AAC that I like bc one can see the differences. May not have said that well but this is what I use. Comes in multiple sizes (see the dropdown)

Shim Kit – AAC

advanced-armament.com

 

[Lazyfaire]

I'm no expert but for me I coat every single thread (and tri lug adapters) on suppressors and barrel threads with BN lube. It's stable to 1800 degrees F and is a dry lube. I hear people complain about things locking up and I've never had that issue at all doing this.

Some people buy BN as a powder and if you do that I would get the smallest nano particle size available. But I'm lazy so I buy liqui moly ceratec from
Amazon. It's BN nano particle in a carrier oil. I put it in a little squeeze bottle needle oiler and let it settle out for a week or whatever then remove much of the carrier oil to get a higher concentration of BN. Imo is best to coat whatever you are lubing and work it several times to help the BN adsorb to the metal. For example the action of the gun or threads of the suppressor.

Would this also be used on the barrel threads? Allowing you to crank down to 50psi and yet still allow removal down the road?

 

[titsonritz]

I don't use crush washers for MDs anymore, I moved 100% to Precision Armament AccuWashers.

 

[msgriff]

I was also gonna ask you, How good is that vise you're using? The reason why I ask is I want to buy possibly a 6 inch vise for semi-pro home use. I want to get a detachable screw in jaw like yours and I also need it on some automotive and home works. I don't know much about vises besides Kurt for I been machining all my life. But I don't want to spend $800 bucks for a kurt vise for its too overkill and too heavy for my home use. Its too bad I have all the kurt vise contraptions that I designed and built long ago. I can even put it sideways and different degree fixtures.
I saw this and I don't know if its any good?
Thanks H

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That particular vise in my picture is a specialty machinist vise for T-Slot tables and doesn't mount to a bench using conventional means. They make similar vises with mounting ears, and although it might have enough clamping force, many of those types would be a poor choice for high rotational force, as you can break off the mounting ears. I use a bench mounted vise similar to the one in your link for the heavy duty jobs.

 

[HiFi Magnetics]

That particular vise in my picture is a specialty machinist vise for T-Slot tables and doesn't mount to a bench using conventional means. They make similar vises with mounting ears, and although it might have enough clamping force, many of those types would be a poor choice for high rotational force, as you can break off the mounting ears. I use a bench mounted vise similar to the one in your link for the heavy duty jobs.

so should I skip the non american vises even if I get an old one that's in excellent shape?

 

[roseburger]

It seems to have come from the manufacturer covered in a light film of something oily like.

Lubed to make insertion easier.

 

[msgriff]

so should I skip the non american vises even if I get an old one that's in excellent shape?

I don't think that most people will have problems using any large (5"+) imported vise. I don't know about the quality of any specific brand, model, or age of imported vises, though.