help me make some final AR-15 build choices

[usagi]

for precision rifle, people usually go with a two stage geissele or rock river match trigger.

geissele is the mercedes of triggers. expensive, but i have yet to find a better AR trigger.
rock river is 80% of a geissle for 50% of the price.

Rock River Arms: RRA Trigger Kits
Triggers

that tac-con is ridiculously expensive, and is intended for competition race guns.

oh yeah -- if you ever fire your AR indoors, even a single shot, you will have permanent serious hearing damage.

 

[Kevinkris]

yea, ive been looking at many different kinds of hearing protection because im very concerned with sound. i'll be sure to take a good look at the RRA triggers too. it is much cheaper than the other one and if the difference is negligible i may go for that one.

 

[rds801]

Building is the way I went (well, building the lower) because I didn't have the money to buy a complete AR. I had planned to get a plum crazy complete polymer lower because it was cheap and I was in a hurry to get an AR. Decided against it. I ended up getting a PSA lower during one of their $50 sales. And got a PSA lower parts kit (actually the parts kit was the first thing I bought). Then the stock kit was bought. Then the spikes complete mid length barreled upper was bought.

It actually took me a couple of years to complete. I would get parts as presents......birthdays, fathers day, Christmas, etc. Ended up with 2 rifles within those 2 years. I'm sure I could have got it done sooner but after a while I figured out that there really was no need to rush. So one rifle is a PSA rifle and the other is a Spikes rifle.

PSA rifle has PSA lower with a PSA barreled upper (carbine gas system), which cost $245 during a black Friday sale. It has the Spikes BCG in it at the moment. Also installed an ALG QMS trigger in it. It has a quad rail from Primary Arms with Magpul rail covers. Magpul rear sight.

The Spikes rifle is my duty rifle. It has a Geissele SSA trigger and Magpul furniture, BCM BCG, Streamlight TLR-1S tactical light. An Aimpoint will be my next purchase to replace the Primary Arms red dot that I'm using now. Haven't decided on a PRO or one of the Micros.

BCM gunfighter charging handles on both rifles.

Good luck with your build. Don't rush, look for deals, be happy!

 

[Mr Smith]

Definitely ditch the stock trigger and go with either a Geissele SSA trigger SSF trigger, or even a Timney trigger or RRA trigger.

All great triggers that will change the whole experience of firing the gun.

You can even go on the cheap and use a JP yellow trigger spring kit. will reduce the pull weight of the trigger. Have a reputable gunsmith polish and set up the trigger and it will have a nice clean break along with the reduced pull.


I've seen the TACCON reviews and while it is cool that they add a 3-position selector switch for their "positive-reset" mode. They are ridiculously overpriced and early reviews are already showing the 3rd mode doesn't really help bumpfire and it can be bump-fired more easily on semi-auto mode as well as there have been a lot of reports of light primer strikes from the positive reset mode causing FTF.

Maybe they will work this issue out in the future, but do you really wanna throw away $500 on a gamble? Money better spent on a proven trigger or even a professional re-working your stock trigger.

for sound: wear good hearing protection.

could also get a can and submit the form 4 to the BATFE for a stamp. I hear the wait is pretty long these days though. It was 12 weeks to the day back when I got mine, but seems they are taking 3 times as long these days.

A can will make a good 30db+ difference in sound though and bring the sound down to safe levels to prevent hearing damage. won't be "quiet" like the movies, but it will certainly be quieter.

Think it is rather silly that a can is a NFA item as I see it as more of a safety item than anything.

 

[Kevinkris]

I've seen the TACCON reviews and while it is cool that they add a 3-position selector switch for their "positive-reset" mode. They are ridiculously overpriced and early reviews are already showing the 3rd mode doesn't really help bumpfire and it can be bump-fired more easily on semi-auto mode as well as there have been a lot of reports of light primer strikes from the positive reset mode causing FTF.

is that failure to feed? i sometimes get the acronyms mixed up here.

i have been considering getting a suppressor but its going to have to be a down the road purchase due to the cost of one that will last as well as be highly effective. ive read too many reviews of the more affordable ones only having a small difference, i would rather pick up a great one and not have to buy another for a long time. thanks for pointing out a few more trigger options for me too.

as a side note, i was looking up different calibers just to get away from reading the same things and i noticed the 5.56 seems to be the cheapest round (other than .22), am i missing some other choices that can still be used effectively in home defense? i dont plan to use any other type of ammo but i felt it was at least worth looking into. the 300 AAC looked interesting but i have no plans to spend so much for ammo and the 7.62x39 apparently causes more than desirable wear to the rifle. as far as i can tell there really is no reason to choose any round than 5.56 other than cool factor or cheapo .22 plinking, when you want to keep long term costs down. it is a nice thing to see that ammo costs have really come down the past few months though.

 

[usagi]

7.62x54r? you can still get surplus spam cans of it for cheap. it's roughly equivalent to 30-06 or 308win.

 

[Kevinkris]

could be worth looking into but i dont think i will be going in that direction anyway. if i were to do that i think i would go with a M1A. at the range it does feel a bit more satisfying firing the larger calibers though.

 

[Mr Smith]

is that failure to feed? i sometimes get the acronyms mixed up here.

i have been considering getting a suppressor but its going to have to be a down the road purchase due to the cost of one that will last as well as be highly effective. ive read too many reviews of the more affordable ones only having a small difference, i would rather pick up a great one and not have to buy another for a long time. thanks for pointing out a few more trigger options for me too.

as a side note, i was looking up different calibers just to get away from reading the same things and i noticed the 5.56 seems to be the cheapest round (other than .22), am i missing some other choices that can still be used effectively in home defense? i dont plan to use any other type of ammo but i felt it was at least worth looking into. the 300 AAC looked interesting but i have no plans to spend so much for ammo and the 7.62x39 apparently causes more than desirable wear to the rifle. as far as i can tell there really is no reason to choose any round than 5.56 other than cool factor or cheapo .22 plinking, when you want to keep long term costs down. it is a nice thing to see that ammo costs have really come down the past few months though.

failed to fire for the purpose of that post

If you want maximum stopping power out to 200yds for home defense from the AR platform: .50 Beowulf.

Or if you want AK-47 like stopping power out to 600yds+ the 6.5 Grendel. The Grendel actually stays supersonic out to 1200yds. and Hiding behind a car will not save you from the Grendel. It will easily punch through both doors and take out the target behind it.

here is an example of the rounds side by side:

left to right: .223 remington (almost identical to a 5.56mm) 6.5 Grendel, .50 Beowulf.

 

[Kevinkris]

so here's a question, how would one find an AR build party?

 

[Martini_Up]

so here's a question, how would one find an AR build party?

Hosting...with beer.

 

[Kevinkris]

could be a good idea, it would have to be a few months down the road. anyone have any ideas for a location? my garage isnt exactly the best place for more than a couple people at a time.

 

[Mr Smith]

would also need to find people that have all of their parts but haven't assembled yet.


I still don't have even 1/2 of my parts.

Though I did just order my handguard/rail system today at a steal of a price

Daniel Defense Lite Rail 12.0 for under $250 shipped brand new! Those things normally go for $340-$399

I don't even have a barrel or upper yet!

I do have a planned parts list though

 

[Kevinkris]

very nice. i was eyeballing the DPMS oracle 5.56 rifle kit (Oracle 5.56 Complete Rifle Kit Less Lower), just because its complete. that will give me a good starting point, then im still deciding on a match trigger to put in there right away. i was considering buying all separate but its looking bleak for getting a good deal like that.

 

[Mr Smith]

there are good deals to be had out there...

there are still some of those DD lite rails for under $300 where I got mine!

 

[Kevinkris]

i may have to wait on that, if i decide on the rifle kit i want to be sure the after market parts i buy will fit. it does sound good though. ive been looking over the rifle kit and it has tons of great reviews but i think im already sold on getting a match trigger and some flip up sights. i have chosen neither at this point. im also considering a magpul butt stock but im not sure that will be entirely necessary unless the included one has some slop between the stock and buffer tube. i also hear nothing but magpul when people talk about great mags and for the price its hard to take cost into account when its so close.

 

[Kevinkris]

so i was looking at pistol kits while browsing my options and im a little confused. why is it pistol kits cost more than rifle kits?

 

[erudne]

Breaking News!
No one ever won a war with a pistol!
Buy a mini-14

 

[eldbillbo]

wow i wish i had a nickel every one of these threads Lol JK of course. I know we all like to ponder out loud i have been trying to make up my mind on my next build since i have been there done that in many cases.

But from what i read of your lengthy thinking out loud post here is my 2 cents to add which your welcome to resale for a quarter . is

unless your building a budget disposable rifle avoid the plastic receivers. Not saying they don't serve their purpose great for light weight low budget building and i would not mind another myself but you got a pretty good budget so use it wisely

I am really liking the melonite barrels lower cost and from what i have read longer life than chrome if only they made a quality hammer forged one oh wait they do.

1/9 twist if your not shooting anything over a 62 grain bullet but some will ague a 1/7 will do it almost as good and you can go even heavier but key word almost.

but hey a good qaulity barrel can cinch up that Almost and put them neck to neck

but i have personally seen the difference in the average brand barrel.

now you mention stag. I can't say enough good stuff about Stag great company and really good products.

A lot of people mentioning Geissele tiggers . Man if you can afford it they are the best way to go . I can't afford to own more than 1 but its my fav . I use RRA in my others but problem with those is they and one has become a long single stage.

I am also a fan of Nickel boron bolt carrier groups slicker than snot Just dont use hopps # 9 on this i heard its not good for nickle boron

as far as rails meh. they look cool if it floats your boat it will float your barrel i got rails and the only thing i really mount on them is panels GUH. but its that whole TACTICOOL AID Thing i got the coolest AR on the block.

Wait till you start shopping optics.

 

[Kevinkris]

well i do plan to take my time building so that cost can be a bit high for higher quality parts but i am trying to keep it from being a $3k rifle. partly because i want to be sure i will not regret spending so much for a rifle and to keep resale on the higher end too, if i were to sell it later. i have not owned an AR before, which is why i wanted to get as much input as i can from guys with more experience with them.

i was actually considering heavier rounds because it will be kept as a home defense weapon, how would i go about making sure i have built the rifle to handle them well? or would it be worth it in the end to go in that direction?

 

[eldbillbo]

Go with a 1/7 twist then for the heavier bullets. ( A 1/9 will do fine for home defense though as your not shooting longer rangers but since you plan to shoot the heavier bullet 1/7 is where its at. and 1/7 does do fine with 55 grain as well. I mostly shoot 55 so i try to stay with 1/9

$3000 is way too much to spend thats over kill a new colt will only cost you $1000-1100 and be all the rifle you'll ever need Name brand to hold value. Mil spec parts quality parts . 1/7 twist chrome lining . Colt sets the standard yes there are higher quality parts out there but unless your shooting competitions they are not needed . Colt has been to war Colt has been there when the SHTF . Yes a Noveske will be more accurate and hold that longer but you'll pay for that quality too and how many rds can you afford to put through it anyway. there are colts made in the late 60s and 70s with thousands of rds through them and they are still going

but building from ground up there are parts that you can buy cheap and others you can buy premium and build what gives you warm and fuzzys . Plenty of $600-800 rifles doing fine as well with thousands of rounds why spend over $1500 to make a better rifle when that money can be used for more ammo to make you a better shooter

a good trigger, good ammo and a good barrel and practice will make you accurate
a good build and quality made parts and good magazines will make your rifle reliable

and it does not have to cost more than $1000 to get a really good dependable rifle.