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My opinions:
Most large frames require a break-in period and sometimes a bit of tuning. Don't throw a bunch of parts at it to see what works, it can sometimes make it worse. I doubt that you have incompatible parts, but there are a few things you may want to change that may help without costing a fortune. Over-gassed is often mistaken for under-gassed, so try not to fixate in any specific direction.
Start with some standard bench tests and procedures. Thoroughly clean the bore and chamber, most factory barrels are filthy. Lightly oil the bore but keep the chamber dry. You can strip and clean the BCG, but usually it just needs oil and lots of it during break-in (like dripping). Don't use grease. The bolt is normally very tight at first, so the gas rings need to be oiled and the bolt hand cycled a bunch to help speed up break-in.
Insert an empty mag and pull back the CH to check the bolt catch operation. Pull the CH back fully and measure or estimate the distance between the bolt face and the bolt catch, it should be about 0.200" - 0.250". Safely hand cycle a cartridge and inspect the brass (or inspect your spent brass). Marks on the neck is usually a feed ramp issue. Longitudinal marks along the body means you should address the barrel extension lugs. Marks on the rim mean the extractor needs tuning.
Replacing your action system from carbine length to rifle length may or may not solve your problem, but you will then need a different buttstock. The carbine length will work, and if you wish I would be happy to share what I've done in the past to solve similar issues.
Most large frames require a break-in period and sometimes a bit of tuning. Don't throw a bunch of parts at it to see what works, it can sometimes make it worse. I doubt that you have incompatible parts, but there are a few things you may want to change that may help without costing a fortune. Over-gassed is often mistaken for under-gassed, so try not to fixate in any specific direction.
Start with some standard bench tests and procedures. Thoroughly clean the bore and chamber, most factory barrels are filthy. Lightly oil the bore but keep the chamber dry. You can strip and clean the BCG, but usually it just needs oil and lots of it during break-in (like dripping). Don't use grease. The bolt is normally very tight at first, so the gas rings need to be oiled and the bolt hand cycled a bunch to help speed up break-in.
Insert an empty mag and pull back the CH to check the bolt catch operation. Pull the CH back fully and measure or estimate the distance between the bolt face and the bolt catch, it should be about 0.200" - 0.250". Safely hand cycle a cartridge and inspect the brass (or inspect your spent brass). Marks on the neck is usually a feed ramp issue. Longitudinal marks along the body means you should address the barrel extension lugs. Marks on the rim mean the extractor needs tuning.
Replacing your action system from carbine length to rifle length may or may not solve your problem, but you will then need a different buttstock. The carbine length will work, and if you wish I would be happy to share what I've done in the past to solve similar issues.