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My opinions:
Most large frames require a break-in period and sometimes a bit of tuning. Don't throw a bunch of parts at it to see what works, it can sometimes make it worse. I doubt that you have incompatible parts, but there are a few things you may want to change that may help without costing a fortune. Over-gassed is often mistaken for under-gassed, so try not to fixate in any specific direction.
Start with some standard bench tests and procedures. Thoroughly clean the bore and chamber, most factory barrels are filthy. Lightly oil the bore but keep the chamber dry. You can strip and clean the BCG, but usually it just needs oil and lots of it during break-in (like dripping). Don't use grease. The bolt is normally very tight at first, so the gas rings need to be oiled and the bolt hand cycled a bunch to help speed up break-in.
Insert an empty mag and pull back the CH to check the bolt catch operation. Pull the CH back fully and measure or estimate the distance between the bolt face and the bolt catch, it should be about 0.200" - 0.250". Safely hand cycle a cartridge and inspect the brass (or inspect your spent brass). Marks on the neck is usually a feed ramp issue. Longitudinal marks along the body means you should address the barrel extension lugs. Marks on the rim mean the extractor needs tuning.
Replacing your action system from carbine length to rifle length may or may not solve your problem, but you will then need a different buttstock. The carbine length will work, and if you wish I would be happy to share what I've done in the past to solve similar issues.
 
The carbine spring is a higher tension spring than the rifle spring. If you are using the carbine tube and the spring for it is too strong, you could try the rifle spring but you may need to remove a coil or two to prevent binding. Before diddling this route, be completely sure the gas port is open all the way, or even consider putting in an adjustable gas block, which really should be standard equipment on all guns being considered for suppression.
 
Had the same thing with my AR-10 today, now I hafta check the gas block.

This happened on a dif AR-10 when gas block was loose. I wound up drilling a small divot one of the gas block screws could seat into & using blue locktite to refasten & it worked good after that

.308 generates much more force than 9mm or .223 & really shakes stuff loose
 
Sit down in front of the TV and cycle the action 200 times. Pull the BCG, wipe it off, oil it real good, go try again. Your running either really tight (new) or too heavy. Too tight is the first stop with a new rifle not picking up the next round. You may also have to come to grips with checking the gas system, to rule it out.
 
you DO have a gas key it is the tube like thing on top of your bolt carrier. make sure it is not lose there are two screws holding it to the bolt carrier


From everything I read, I really think your gas block is not on right or lose. GAS BLOCK IS NOT THE GAS KEY.
 
It racks fine, heavy but fine.
Sit down in front of the TV and cycle the action 200 times. Pull the BCG, wipe it off, oil it real good, go try again. Your running either really tight (new) or too heavy. Too tight is the first stop with a new rifle not picking up the next round. You may also have to come to grips with checking the gas system, to rule it out.
HIs "racking heavy" made me think he was just needing some break in and heavier grease/oiling but also sounds like he might need a different buffer setup, carbine buffer with rifle length upper.
 
•18" Aero Precision assembled upper with I assume a non adjustable gas block.

Assume? Don't assume. You should be able to see through the M-Lok handguard and tell what you have.

Buffer I assume is standard.

Again, don't assume. The end of the buffer should be marked to ID it, if it is not it most likely a cheap no-name carbine buffer

No gas key as I do not believe it is adjustable style

The gas key has nothing to do with the gas block, it is on the bolt carrier and is a critical component to the gas system. Should be using grade 8 fasteners, they need to tightened and staked as well as aligned with the gas tube.


•Nickel Boron BCG ( disassembled cleaned lubed)

I've seen these cause the issues, the finish alters tolerances and choke.
 
With what you have explained, it should not be locking back. If it does, you probably need to look at your mags.
Copy that... Thank you for your help! Back to range this weekend. I have a call into Aero Precision as upper was built by them reluctant to tear into gas block and such without them involved.
I'm suspicious of me using a carbine buffer assembly vs a rifle buffer...
 
Good luck. You could just pull the hand guard off and make sure that the gas block is tight and is Non-adjustable. Also look for any schmootz coating the barrel around the gas block.
 
Good luck. You could just pull the hand guard off and make sure that the gas block is tight and is Non-adjustable. Also look for any schmootz coating the barrel around the gas block.
True but I would need to control the urge to disassemble gas block and view that barrel gas port is clear until I touch base with Aero P.
 
Assume? Don't assume. You should be able to see through the M-Lok handguard and tell what you have.



Again, don't assume. The end of the buffer should be marked to ID it, if it is not it most likely a cheap no-name carbine buffer



The gas key has nothing to do with the gas block, it is on the bolt carrier and is a critical component to the gas system. Should be using grade 8 fasteners, they need to tightened and staked as well as aligned with the gas tube.




I've seen these cause the issues, the finish alters tolerances and choke.

OK lets pull this apart.
"Carbine" buffer assembly is Aero Precision. dissembled and checked for function seems ok
Nickel boron Aero precision BCG has been checked, cleaned, tightened and lubed
Looking through hand guard I can see that Gas block is "non adjustable" and looking down bore gas block appears to be centered correctly
I got cleaning solvent to flow freely through gas tube assembly out into barrel (I know this does not prove that there could be slight blockage or misalignment...)
Again thank you for your assistance.
 
Copy that... Thank you for your help! Back to range this weekend. I have a call into Aero Precision as upper was built by them reluctant to tear into gas block and such without them involved.
I'm suspicious of me using a carbine buffer assembly vs a rifle buffer...
Just an aid for you.........

ARejectionpattern.jpg
 
You don't mention if the gas system is carbine or mid. If it's an 18" carbine gas barrel the gas port size should be around 0.063". Since Aero Precision built it I'd ship it back to them and ask them to check that gas block is centered and gas port size is correct. I'm pretty sure Ballistic Advantage is still doing their barrels and a while ago I bought a .308 barrel from BA that has an extremely undersized gas port. Called BA and they told me that the supplied gas port size was perfect. I found way more people in forums and their own review area for the barrel that had the same problem as me. I ended up drilling out the port myself.
 

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