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I'm not sure if this has been asked in the past but I am need of some help. Have a Springfield Hellcat with a red dot on and I cannot seem to be able to remove it. I took it to Limitless hoping that they'd be able to get it off with the right tools but no luck. Does anyone have any places that could help me out with my situation? I appreciate any info.
 
I'm not sure if this has been asked in the past but I am need of some help. Have a Springfield Hellcat with a red dot on and I cannot seem to be able to remove it. I took it to Limitless hoping that they'd be able to get it off with the right tools but no luck. Does anyone have any places that could help me out with my situation? I appreciate any info.
can you send me the pic of the top of the RDS, so I can see the screws heads.

Who helped you at Limitless? Was Cody in?
 
can you send me the pic of the top of the RDS, so I can see the screws heads.

Who helped you at Limitless? Was Cody in?
To be honest I'm not trying to bash Limitless, I've always gone there for all my gun needs. They are all amazing people and are super knowledgeable. To be honest I don't know the name of the guy that helped me.

20220307_160703.jpg 20220307_160637.jpg
 
To be honest I'm not trying to bash Limitless, I've always gone there for all my gun needs. They are all amazing people and are super knowledgeable. To be honest I don't know the name of the guy that helped me.

View attachment 1148436 View attachment 1148437
I may take this up,

I'll send you a dm when I get home with more questions, my credentials etc
 
Agree with wrong bit. Get the correct bit and I bet there is enough meat left to get those screws out. Use lots of downward pressure.
 
maybe apply some heat from a soldering iron to individual screws in case of loktite.
This

I've also use a small butane torch that had a small directional attachment. This works the best, but doesn't get it overwhelmingly hot possibly damaging springs in the slide. Soldering irons sometimes don't get hot enough or takes too dang long.

Do not use a full blown blow torch, you still damage things.

I also have a set of left hand drill bits and extractor

Sometimes getting a correct size bit and tapping it in works. The tapping not only helps secure the bit but "shock" and loosen any gunk such as lock tite and debris to help ease our. Same goes for tightening before loosening. This helps break the "hold" it has. And if it strips the head you can still reverse it as only the tightening side of the broach is damaged

If they were originally hex/Allen broach, finding a torx head that fits tight and tapping it in can work depending on size, material & hardness of your screw and tool

Got a few more tricks, but my car just overheated on the highway cause my electric fan didn't kick on. And I'm waiting for it to cool down before I open the cap. So I've got a lot on my mind lol
 
Before anyone asks, the LH drill bits, sometimes depending on how much torque is needed. Can just reverse the screw out without need for use of the extractor bit. Drilling a hole is require for the extractor but to be used so you might as well just use a LH bit, if it comes out great, if not then you already drilled the hole for the next step

Probably 1/20 times it actually comes out with the lh bit without the use of the extractor. Or atleast out enough to grab it with some pliers or something
 

I've heard people sing their praises for these guys. My only experience was when I first got into guns ('bout 2010) and they were really stand offish, and dickish. We went in because we looked up gun sops in Portland. That included the Gun Room, and Gun Broker. I'd say the service was top notch at The Gun Room, compared to those two at Allison/Carey. Gun Broker is who we ended up buying from.
Alison/Carey will never see me in their store again.
 
Recommend being careful with the butane torch or heat gun.

In the past, I've removed all internal components in attempts to not damage any springs. Additional any aftermarket sights with tritium or fiber optics. Prior going through with the heating part.

I say this, as excessive heat can cause damage to the coating on the lens, or in the plastic lens, damage the lens itself

Additional the adhesive used internal (if applicable) or the adhesive used to hold the lense in, can degrade with heat.

Lastly, excessive heat can cause damage to seals, as well as internal circuit boards.

Safest way is to carefully heat from the bottom which gives you a better chance of not damaging, as so long as the springs etc are removed. As always take it slow, if you decide to do this yourself.

You may start with a soldering iron, but as I mentioned above, many soldering irons may not get hot enough. Different tips help. But all depends on how stuck it is
 

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