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Glocks and reloads
- Thread Starter circlepranch
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The fourth die is a factory crimp die. Using the 3 die set gives a chance for the bullet to recede back into the case and cause chamber pressure issues. It is also not desirable to have a roll crimp (3rd die) as the cartridge seats on the rim of the case and a roll crimp lets it seat too far in the chamber. This is why Glocks chambered in 40 have been noted to blow with reloads.
I use the 4 die sets for 380,9mm, 40 s&w, 45acp to eliminate the issue as well as all my rifle ammo.
I use the 4 die sets for 380,9mm, 40 s&w, 45acp to eliminate the issue as well as all my rifle ammo.
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I just did a 3 die set and added a tapper crimp die and run it on a progressive.
I have never liked seating and crimping in one operation for anything.
I have never liked seating and crimping in one operation for anything.
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I don't load .40 but I'll 2nd the need for a factory crimp die. For some cartridges it is essentially a necessity (such as 30-30 Win)
No one but you can answer if something "is worth it".
The shenanigans around the Glock bulge is mostly hype, and poor ammo quality; and has nothing to do with type of crimp used.
It comes down to timing and chamber support. You can read volumes about Glocks "unsupported" chambers, by boobs who have no clue. ANY GUN that uses either a standard Browning type, or modified Browning type swinging link action, has an unsupported chamber(this means 99.9% of all pistols). HOW unsupported, coupled with timing or how quickly the system begins to unlock, is where an issue can arise.
Honestly, in all my thousands of rounds fired through my Glock(the 40) the ONLY time I've had bulged cases, all came from questionable factory ammo. How questionable? My brothers Berretta bulged worse with the same ammo.
I have reloaded bulged cases with no fanfare, they fail long before the other cases, but there is no decline of western civilization, the sun still rises, etc.
The shenanigans around the Glock bulge is mostly hype, and poor ammo quality; and has nothing to do with type of crimp used.
It comes down to timing and chamber support. You can read volumes about Glocks "unsupported" chambers, by boobs who have no clue. ANY GUN that uses either a standard Browning type, or modified Browning type swinging link action, has an unsupported chamber(this means 99.9% of all pistols). HOW unsupported, coupled with timing or how quickly the system begins to unlock, is where an issue can arise.
Honestly, in all my thousands of rounds fired through my Glock(the 40) the ONLY time I've had bulged cases, all came from questionable factory ammo. How questionable? My brothers Berretta bulged worse with the same ammo.
I have reloaded bulged cases with no fanfare, they fail long before the other cases, but there is no decline of western civilization, the sun still rises, etc.
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If you really have worries about bulged cases you can through resize a .40 - http://www.midwayusa.com/product/35...e-sizing-die-kit-40-s-and-w-357-sig-10mm-auto
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Back in the day, well some time after the wheel was made!
Some brass does get a Bulge near the base. some say its the unsupported chamber, some point to
the reamer wobble or over pressure along with timing. What ever causes it, the Bulge gotta go.
I use the Redding GRx push thru die, just upgraded to carbide. Its simple Just push the brass thru the die
with the pushrod (base down/open end up) you will notice a difference with resizing.
I run all my 40 S&W, 10MM and 357Sig thru it. Before the push thru I got some reloads that that failed to chamber completely. The extra step takes a little time but I feel its worth it.
As far as just starting out with reloading, Pay attention, don't go balls out max from the get-go.
Pull the bullet if in doubt, and for $5 bucks and postage RCBS will get that stuck case out of the resizing die
you know the one that was not lubed and you got distracted and ran it home and pulled the base off with a mighty Heave Hooooooooo Crap! As far as saving money ? It comes from not having to light, heat and furnish the other parts of the house you don't use any more.
Enjoy, Be safe and breath, breath - squezzze (4lbs) oh yea!
Bill W.
By the way just what is the origin of the Shenanigans?
Some brass does get a Bulge near the base. some say its the unsupported chamber, some point to
the reamer wobble or over pressure along with timing. What ever causes it, the Bulge gotta go.
I use the Redding GRx push thru die, just upgraded to carbide. Its simple Just push the brass thru the die
with the pushrod (base down/open end up) you will notice a difference with resizing.
I run all my 40 S&W, 10MM and 357Sig thru it. Before the push thru I got some reloads that that failed to chamber completely. The extra step takes a little time but I feel its worth it.
As far as just starting out with reloading, Pay attention, don't go balls out max from the get-go.
Pull the bullet if in doubt, and for $5 bucks and postage RCBS will get that stuck case out of the resizing die
you know the one that was not lubed and you got distracted and ran it home and pulled the base off with a mighty Heave Hooooooooo Crap! As far as saving money ? It comes from not having to light, heat and furnish the other parts of the house you don't use any more.
Enjoy, Be safe and breath, breath - squezzze (4lbs) oh yea!
Bill W.
By the way just what is the origin of the Shenanigans?
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I've been reloading 40 S&W for my Glock 27 without any issues yet, though I'm only up to 3 firings at the most on some of the brass. There is a slight bulging of the case on one side, but it is completely removed by a normal resizing operation. With a starting level load the bulge is barely perceptible. I have this same slight bulging on the 40 S&W brass from my S&W SW99 which is essentially a Walther P99.
My understanding is that it is the older Glocks that you have to watch out for the "Glock belly/smile" on and it is a completely different animal than the slight bulging that I am seeing. If you have a 3rd or 4th gen Glock then I think you may have an experience similar to mine. Only time will tell how many reloads my brass will withstand, but I do expect it to be reduced compared to other chamberings.
My understanding is that it is the older Glocks that you have to watch out for the "Glock belly/smile" on and it is a completely different animal than the slight bulging that I am seeing. If you have a 3rd or 4th gen Glock then I think you may have an experience similar to mine. Only time will tell how many reloads my brass will withstand, but I do expect it to be reduced compared to other chamberings.
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I'm processing a lot of range picks and ukn firing platforms.
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I'm trying.. nevermind.. that was a mistake. Does Glock say to use no reloads or just lead? What other manufacturer says that?
Never owned a pistol that have the OK for reloads.
Of course they (Glock) says no reloads, they have to for legal reasons. Of course reloads void the 1 year warranty, again they have to say this for legal reasons. Reloading for Glocks is just fine, don't go crazy on the max loads. Take your time and properly resize the brass. If 1 out of 100 looks questionable, just toss it, no loss. If you want to reload lead only and not jacketed, buy an aftermarket barrel from lonewolf or any other 3rd party manufacturer. If you think the chamber is unsupported, then again, buy an aftermarket barrel from lonewolf or any other 3rd party manufacturer.
I've reloaded and shot over 1000 rounds through my glock with ZERO issues.
I've reloaded and shot over 1000 rounds through my glock with ZERO issues.
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I use a Lone Wolf barrel in my G23 (Gen 4) so there's no issues. Even after shooting the brass in the stock barrel, then using the brass in the LW, there's never been a problem, it's a little snug trying to load them in the LW barrel, however it still works.
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Shot my first reloads in my glock 22 today. 6 gr of unique with 165 gr xtreme hp. Win brass 1.125oal federal gmm primers. No problems.
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Hmm, I should probably read my manuals more closely.. never recall reading that in any of mine. Not that it would stop me, of course.
It's kinda odd that Glock would say "no lead" when no major manufacturer that I know of currently uses lead for their projectiles that is used in any Glock. And no, Buffalo Bore etc. are not a major manufacturer.
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Hey Favra, what's that place you like to eat with all the $h1t on the walls?
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i have loaded thousands of 40s&w for my glock 23. most of the shooting i do is just plinkin with friends so when i load, i load around starting load if not just a tenth of a grain or two under. i do this to save on powder and decrease wear and tear on my gun. yes i do have some fullhouse loads too. i use the rcbs carbide taper crimp set. not one problem. some of my brass is on its 5th go around.pay attention. do not get in a hurry, if something doesnt feel right or you second guess yourself then stop and inspect.remember slow and precise is fast. fast and careless is a blown up gun or worse.
i was once told on glock forum that if you look at your factory glock barrel see if it has a pentagon on it, that means that the 'unsupported chamber' is now more supported. if you have a pentagon and your pentagon has a dot in it you have a tougher steel barrel.
. i use the rcbs carbide taper crimp set. not one problem. some of my brass is on its 5th go around.pay attention. do not get in a hurry, if something doesnt feel right or you second guess yourself then stop and inspect.remember slow and precise is fast. fast and careless is a blown up gun or worse.i was once told on glock forum that if you look at your factory glock barrel see if it has a pentagon on it, that means that the 'unsupported chamber' is now more supported. if you have a pentagon and your pentagon has a dot in it you have a tougher steel barrel.
As others have said, there is a lot of lore and doubt around reloads in Glocks, especially .40 cal. Here is what I learned after a few thousand reloads through my Glock 22, 23, and 27. Done reasonably and carefully it will work fine. Specifically, I use almost all plated bullets (Xtreme, Berrys, and similar. Plain lead bullets can foul the Glock poly rifling, if used extensively without cleaning. Most of my reloads are used to subdue menacing paper targets or the occasional steel plate. Full power defense ( man-stopper) loads I leave to factory ammo. So light target loads for my reloads put less stress on the gun (and shooter). Last,I use 165 gr bullets as this leaves more space between the loaded bullet and (light) powder load in case of bullet setback. This reduces the chance of an inadvertent high pressure load.
Anyway, it works for me. Have fun and be safe.
Don't recall if Glock says "no lead" specifically or not. But they all tell you not to use reloads, just factory SAAMI standard loads.
As BX stated, the lead "issue" has to do with the poly type rifling, grabbing on to it. I have personally not noticed that mine lead foul worse than another.
YMMV
